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As some of you know, my wife's GL has a charging issue. I have checked several of the basic issues to no avail. I had come to the conclusion that the stator was bad.

Someone told me to start the bike and let it warm up and then disconnect the battery. If the bike continues to run, then the stator is fine and the issue lies elsewhere, probably wiring.

Has anyone else ran into this and where do I start with the wiring?

Another thought occurred to me, could the starter be the problem? One of the starter bolts is bent, and I know the bike was dropped at some point before we owned it.

I am hoping to get a bunch of work done on both bikes this winter, new brake pads, new master cylinders, new exhaust on my bike, etc., etc. The charging issue as at the top of the list.



Thanks,



Stubby
 

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I can't see how the starter would contribute to a lack of charging issue. It doesn't have any electrical connection to the bike after the engine is running.



Now, I'm not sure that the best way to check the charging system is to disconnect the battery. The battery acts as a sponge for the electrical system. Without it in the system, the regulator doesn't operate properly. The easier way would be to connect a voltage meter across the battery's terminals and read the voltage at idle and and approx 2000 RPM. At idle, you will probably see around 12 volts, this will increase to approx 14.5 volts at 2000 RPM's. That is for a functioning charging system. Any major deviation from these numbers would indicate something is amiss.



It could the the stator, battery, wiring connectors (especially the 3 yellow wire connector), or the voltage regulator. The first three are far more likely than the regulator, so check them first. Stator checks are listed in the Quick Reference post under the General forum.
 

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Wiring checks mostly involve doing voltage drop checks to determine the problem area. For instance I found a voltage drop of .54 between the battery + and the black connector (12v feed) to the reg/rectifier from the ignition switch. I removed, dismantled and cleaned the ign. switch and the drop now is an acceptable .14V. That is unless your checks reveal a dead short somewhere. Study the wiring diagram and follow the flow chart mentioned in prior post.
 
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