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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I'm attempting to install CBR1000RR controls on my 81 CX500 Custom.
I have found an old thread that seems to describe the connections/pairing in great detail: Starter/Kill switch swap
The problem is that the wires on the left control switch I purchased (for a 2004-2007 model CBR1000RR, part # 35200-MEL-670 does not match the wire colors in the post:
The post lists the following:
CX500----CBR------FUNCTION
O--------O--------Left Turn Signal
O/W-----O/W------Left Parking/Running Light
LB--------LB ------Right Turn Signal
LB/W-----LB/W-----Right Parking/Running Light
G--------BK-------Clutch
G/R------BK-------Clutch
BK-------BK/G-----Horn-from connector
BK-------BK-------Horn-from hand control
Blue/W-----Blue------Hi Beam Indicator(On the CBR this leads to the Headlight relay and to the Fuse box on the CX).
Blue-------Blue/W------Headlight (high beam)
GR-------GR-------Turn Signal Relay
BR/W-----W/G------Turn Signal Relay
White------W--------Headlight (low beam)

Here is what the switch I'm using has. Any idea how this pairs up?
orange (left turn)
orange/white (left park)
light blue (right turn)
light blue/white (right park)
blue/white (???)
brown/white (???)
gray (???)
white/green (???)
white (???)
black/grey (horn from connector)
black (clutch)
black (clutch)
I'm not 100% certain on the ones listed as (???)... It seems as though the "headlight relay" on the cbr diagram is messing me up. Any thoughts/assistance is GREATLY appreciated. This is my first time building a bike, really enjoying it so far and excited to try to get this to work.
Thank you very much!
 

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I don't know about the CBR switches but blue/white is usually the power to the high/low headlight switch (makes sense since high is blue and low is white) and gray is usually the wire from the turn signal flasher to the turn signal switch.

You might find this useful

BTW: What you are calling "parking lights" are actually the running lights (more or less opposite of parking, they are on when the key is on except when the signal is flashing).

A Google image search for CBR1100rr 2004 wiring drawing found the drawing below on the Fireblade Forum so it may be of help. I am unfamiliar with the ECU and other "modern" electronics the CBR has but after a brief perusal of the drawing I suspect that the kill switch works by cutting power to something. If your '81 CX500C has the original CDI it needs the kill switch to short the black/white wire to ground to shut down the ignition so this may be problematic (some have mentioned using relays to reverse the function of the switch). If you have converted to Rae-San or Ignitech I believe they are powered by 12V from the charging system so you could wire the kill switch to interrupt that power.


FWIW, when I changed the switches on my bikes I downloaded the wiring drawing of the bike the new ones were made for but really didn't use it except for checking things like which way the kill switch worked before I bought them. Since the wires on my new switches were both too short and nowhere near Honda's colours I planned from the beginning to use my original wires with the new switches transplanted on so I found it was easier to remove the wires that came with them, examine the actual switches both visually and with an ohmmeter (multimeter) while I sketching each switch and noting down what each terminal on it did what, then comparing them to the bike's wiring drawing and noting which wire should be soldered where on the sketches (both bikes are Hondas of similar age so they are similar but there are a few small differences). After that I removed a few wires I wouldn't be needing (e.g. my switches don't turn the running lights off when the signals are on but the running lights I use are separate from the signals and far enough from them so that feature isn't needed) and added back some new ones (mine have UK spec 3 position headlight switches that now turn the bike and sidecar headlights on and the passing light buttons operate the garage door remote) and sheathed them with heat shrink tubing before soldering them to the new switches.
 

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CBR controls labeled.
orange (left turn signal)
orange/white (left park)
light blue (right turn signal)
light blue/white (right park)
blue/white (main headlight power from ignition (low beam))
brown/white (power from fuse box for park lights)
gray (power to turn signals from relay)
white/green (power from fuse box for horn)
white (power to headlight high beam)
black/grey (from horn to ground)
black (clutch)
black (clutch)

Hope this helps, tomorrow I can get the wire harness from my cx and give you the colors on the cx that relate if need be.
 

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Again calling the running lights "park". As I said before, they are just the opposite, coming on when you turn the key on as opposed to parking lights that can be left on when the vehicle is parked and the key removed.
 

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Again calling the running lights "park". As I said before, they are just the opposite, coming on when you turn the key on as opposed to parking lights that can be left on when the vehicle is parked and the key removed.
Yes I know I was just using the terms that he was familiar with to avoid confusion on his end. I didn't edit all the lines I just corrected the ones he needed clarification on. I am aware that they are running lights, modern sport bikes don't even have a park function.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If it's not too much trouble for you to match to your CX wire colors that would be VERY greatly appreciated!

Here is what I've come up with (so far), although not 100% certain this is correct:
CX500 -----------------------CBR
Orange-----------------------Orange
Orange/White--------------Orange/White
Light Blue------------------- Light Blue
Light Blue/White-----------Light Blue/White
Black -------------------------Black/Grey
Blue/White-------------------White
Blue---------------------------Blue/White (2 wires from the CX going to 1 on the CBR control)
White-------------------------Blue/White
Brown/White----------------Brown/White
Grey--------------------------Grey
Green------------------------Black
Green/Red-------------------Black

Thank you very much for taking the time to respond. I'm def a rookie when it comes this but having a lot of fun learning new things and hope that I can return some knowledge on the forum someday soon.
 

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Fair warning ahead of time this will be a little confusing. So your problem with the headlight wiring is that on the CBR the low beam and high beam are two separate bulbs. Meaning that when you switch on the high beam, the low beam on the CBR stays on (thats why theres a relay on the CBR to give the high beam appropriate power). Whereas on the CX when you switch on the high beam the low beam filament turns off. If you plan on keeping the stock headlight it will take a bit of work with a relay to make the low beam turn off when hitting the high beam switch on the CBR controls. If you plan on using a newer headlight that has multiple bulbs the wiring will be easier because newer projector headlights have low beam always on. A simple work around (one that I would caution to not do) is wire the blue with white stripe wire on the CX500 main harness directly to the White wire in the headlight (Low Beam) and wire it to the blue and white wire in the CBR controls. Then wire the white wire on CBR controls to the Blue wire on CX. Doing it this way means that when you switch on the high beam, the low beam filament and high beam filament are lit at the same time. This will put unnecessary strain on the stator and extra heat in the headlight bulb (not recommended). Also note that the right hand control wiring is for TI ignition. If your bike is a CDI you will have to wire in a relay as the kill switch works differently for those bikes as Sidecar Bob mentioned.
Screen Shot 2020-11-05 at 11.03.12 PM.png
 

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RE extra heat in the headlight bulb: The high/low switch in a bike I had years ago was "make before break" so both beams were on momentarily as you switched between them. This wasn't normally a problem as it was only for a split second but coming home late one night I decided I wanted the light of both beams so I kept my thumb on the switch to hold it in the middle. I found out the hard way that heating the bulb that much puts extra strain on the filaments. Fortunately only one of them burned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Man, this is great info.! I didn't realize the low filament goes off when the hi-beam comes on, that makes a lot more sense now when I look at the wiring diagrams... I am replacing with a new led headlight, so I think I'm going to try the work around you've listed above and see how that goes.
Thanks again for taking the time to send this, I felt like a child waiting for Santa in anticipation for your reply LOL.
Take care!
 

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Those are some great looking wiring diagrams for sure!

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