Hi all just pulled the tops of my carbs and removed the slides and needles. I have noticed that the left hand carb has a plastic spacer under the spring and the right hand carb doesn’t is this correct?
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Carbs
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Not a stock part.
Work out why this has been done and ditch it.
Do both slides have their nylon caps.?
Did both vacuum chambers have their black plastic base ring? This is not merely a seal as it dictates the extent to which the slide can drop.
Are the springs identical?
My guess is this though. The slide is sticky. Polish the inside of the vac cap and the area of the slide that bears on it with autosol or another good metal polish. Ditto the inside of the brass piece in the cap and its matching bearing surface on the slide.
Do not lube. It should slide easily once polished. Check that both drop into the caps at the same speed.
Work out why this has been done and ditch it.
Do both slides have their nylon caps.?
Did both vacuum chambers have their black plastic base ring? This is not merely a seal as it dictates the extent to which the slide can drop.
Are the springs identical?
My guess is this though. The slide is sticky. Polish the inside of the vac cap and the area of the slide that bears on it with autosol or another good metal polish. Ditto the inside of the brass piece in the cap and its matching bearing surface on the slide.
Do not lube. It should slide easily once polished. Check that both drop into the caps at the same speed.
Nice one thanks so I guess if I measure the springs and make sure the slide doesn’t stick I can lose the extra bit of plastic. Do Honda give a spec for the spring height? Or is it worth buying new ones?
I’m just wanting to get the bike running before going to mad it was abandoned out in the rain for 15 years so not even sure if she will go.
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I’m just wanting to get the bike running before going to mad it was abandoned out in the rain for 15 years so not even sure if she will go.
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An 80?
I can get you a measurement for that spring when I lock the shed for the night.
Yours should be OK as long as no one has cut them to get the slides to rise quicker. Are both ends still double wound.
From memory I think you're looking for about 90 mm.
I can get you a measurement for that spring when I lock the shed for the night.
Yours should be OK as long as no one has cut them to get the slides to rise quicker. Are both ends still double wound.
From memory I think you're looking for about 90 mm.
Yes it’s a very sad looking 1980 at the moment fingers crossed she will run ok so I can resurrect it.
Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year (NOT year first registered as UK paperwork shows) to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and obviously needs work to make it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether it has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. If it sat that long you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know they are over 5 years old so they need to be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). It looks like it still has the original rubber brake lines, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so you'll probably want to shop for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and obviously needs work to make it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether it has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. If it sat that long you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know they are over 5 years old so they need to be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). It looks like it still has the original rubber brake lines, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so you'll probably want to shop for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
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What Bob says. I have taken two engines apart that have been sitting in my garage for the last 15 years. When I took of the valve stem seals they shattered like they were made of glass. So yes......check, or even better, replace all the rubber!
With it being sitting in the rain for that long, I wouldn't even try starting it before.
With it being sitting in the rain for that long, I wouldn't even try starting it before.
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