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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So.. I decided to do the pine-sol method of carb cleaning. The original owner apparently had the carbs "rebuilt" by someone about 10 years ago. This someone stripped 2 of the screws on the top (needles?) and super tightened the screws on the float bowls to the point where even PB blast, isn't getting them lose after a soaking for an hour. I'm so scared of stripping the screws, I'm for sticking the whole thing in a deep ass container of pine sol and letting it soak.



Stupid original owner



My other options are getting a file and making the screws flat head so I can get them out and getting replacement screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good idea...I've got it soaking now as we speak. I'm doing the pine sol method as I can flush it after I'm done LOL. I checked on the one float cover and needle I could get out and checked it and it looked amazing.
 

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The best release agent I've ever used I discovered last year which is a 50/50 mix of Acetone with ATF or Brake fluid.Works better than any shop bought one,







PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.



Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce

None ................. 516 pounds .

WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25

PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35

Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21

Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75

ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10



From another thread
 

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This someone stripped 2 of the screws on the top (needles?) and super tightened the screws on the float bowls to the point where even PB blast, isn't getting them lose after a soaking for an hour.


For the float bowls I always use a small pair of vice-grips to loosen them, I never (and I mean NEVER) use a screw driver to loosen any carb screws (or screws in general) that I can get a small pair of vice-grips on. Just use the smallest pair of vise-grips (I have a tiny needle-nose pair) you can find and try them, they work great. I loosen the screws this way and only use a screw driver to tighten them, and not too tight at that.



As for the needles, I haven't encountered that particular problem yet, I'm sure someone will have a useful solution. Hope this helps and Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The best release agent I've ever used I discovered last year which is a 50/50 mix of Acetone with ATF or Brake fluid.Works better than any shop bought one,







PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.



Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce

None ................. 516 pounds .

WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25

PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35

Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21

Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75

ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10



From another thread


I saw that in another thread.

Small set of vice grips you say? Never thought of that.



I may be confusing you all with what I'm saying. Mainly because I am SUPER noob. If your looking at the side of the carb as it sites on the bike, the top part section with the spring in it. Each side has two screws the right side came right off, the left side is stripped.
 

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Do you have an ultra sonic cleaner? If so, drop the carb in it and let it cycle a few times and give the screws a try. They probably are corroded and giving you the grief of not wanting to come out. The overnight soak should yield some good results, though. Just be mindful of what you soak it in; you could damage rubber/plastic parts if you leave it in the wrong solution. Also, if you have an impact driver, use that to free the screws.



Do you have Larry's Carb Book? If not, then it would be a good idea to get a copy. It will pay for itself!
 

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Small set of vice grips you say? Never thought of that.



I may be confusing you all with what I'm saying. Mainly because I am SUPER noob. If your looking at the side of the carb as it sites on the bike, the top part section with the spring in it. Each side has two screws the right side came right off, the left side is stripped.


Threads are stripped or screw heads? I was assuming screw heads, but you know what they say when you assume?!



Anyway, trust me about the grips, it works and saves the screw heads. You may not be able to get at all of the screws, but should be able to get at most of them. It's late and I just finished a 13 hour day, so I can't remember all of the screws on the CX carbs at the moment, but it should help! Also, if there are any that you can't reach with the grips and damage when removing just put them back in a spot that you can get at with the grips, therefore they won't get further damaged the next time. A little PB Blaster or something on the screws is a good idea when reinstalling too.



Gotta love Previous Owners, they always provide so many surprises!
 

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Having got those screws out you might like to consider replacing them with allen bolts or socket heads or whatever the terminology for these is on your side of the pond.


Good point.I've replaced all the float bowl screws on my carbs with Allen screws/bolts.This also means I can drop the float bowls in-bike much easier for a quick blow out as I can get to that nasty little buggery one in the middle
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Allen bolts....That's a smashing idea




I haven't gotten them apart yet but I'm going right now to the hardware store to buy a needle nose set of vice grips. I'm also taking screws with me to get the replaced.
 

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Allen bolts....That's a smashing idea




I haven't gotten them apart yet but I'm going right now to the hardware store to buy a needle nose set of vice grips. I'm also taking screws with me to get the replaced.


Not sure if needle nose grips are better than just a small normal set. Needle nose sometimes will not have the bite that a normal set will.
 

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I agree with Allan, a conventional 5" Vise Grip seems to work better for me. And I would only buy the Vise Grip brand, the wantabes just done cut it. And even the Vise Grip brand has gone downhill since Irwin bought out Peterson.
 

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I used an impact driver to get my carbs separated, and then put them through the ultrasonic before further disassembly - they came apart real easy, although I did use the impact driver a lot. IMO, these are two of the best tools you can invest in, and the pair only cost about $80.

I also just went through the carbs from my VTR250 - PO had let it sit for 5 years with gas in them. Very gunky, and I could not get some screws or any jets / emulsion tubes out. A couple hours in the ultrasonic - everything came apart easy as can be. It's almost a miracle how it can loosen up gunk in screw threads and small passageways.

If you want to take a drive out to SML and sit for a couple hours watching your carbs bake, let me know - you can use mine. Just bring your own Simple Green - I'm all out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great success with the vice grips, also got the allen screws to replace the old ones. Got it apart, haven't taken the jets out...not sure if I should
I'm afraid I'll screw it up putting them back in
. One of the brass tubes has a hairline crack in it I noticed as soon as I got it out. At least that I can fix from reading here. I have a soldering iron too




So should I nut up and just take the jets out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Absolutely. You aren't cleaning anything really if you don't expose those passages.


Done! I'll just be needing help getting them right putting them back in LOL. That's what this place is for though




No I don't have Larry's book either LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
One question...the jets...do I need to back them out any, or just roll um in?
 

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