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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found this on the Bay, my initial reaction would be "you get what you pay for" but I was wondering if this might do a decent job of synching our carbs? I like the looks of those $100 ones better, but the times being what they are and such, , ,



Anyone know of this type of synch tool?



Carb Synch Tool Link

 

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I have a pair like that I was given with my first CX and know quite a few folk with them too.

they usually go for about £25 a pair here and they work well enough IMO.

I know some rave about the Morgan carbtune types and they may well be a better

more accurate device but I've never felt a pressing need to put them on my wish list.

If you're on a budget (join the club) and they go cheap grab em !
 

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Randall has a set too I think.



but you might want to take a reading and then write it down, swap the hoses to the other gauge and see if it reads the same.
 

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Found this on the Bay, my initial reaction would be "you get what you pay for" but I was wondering if this might do a decent job of synching our carbs? I like the looks of those $100 ones better, but the times being what they are and such, , ,



Anyone know of this type of synch tool?



Carb Synch Tool Link

Make your own with 2 Jam jars and some hoses. It is more accurate than the gauges which depend on the setting of the regulator valves. 2 jars half filled with water one hose from each jar to the intakes one hose connecting the 2 jars and imersed in the water. As one pressure differs the water level rises or lowers thus indicating an out of synch condition. The jars need to be air tight so use metal lids and sealant on fittings.
 

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You can find fairly decent vacuum gauges all over the place, but a couple of rolls of aquarium tubing, tacked to a board and held to the side works more accurately than anything else so long as you start out with equal levels across.



Can't describe how to do it but a search will find you the way to set one up.
 

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I have that exact one, and it works passably well.  It's very difficult to get an exact reading though, since the gauges are marked all that well and the needles bounce a lot.  The hardest part is getting it to read precisely without the needles jumping, but making sure they are sensitive enough to accurately show the readings.  Basically you're right, you get what you pay for, I personally wish I'd just saved a bit more and bought the good one to begin with since I'm probably going to do that eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sounds like I could get a reasonable synch but not perfect without some curse words.



Thanks for the input all.
 

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You can find fairly decent vacuum gauges all over the place, but a couple of rolls of aquarium tubing, tacked to a board and held to the side works more accurately than anything else so long as you start out with equal levels across.



Can't describe how to do it but a search will find you the way to set one up.




Here's the link to the most famous one...the $1.55 Carb Synch Tool. Mentioned on a lot of web site forums. I have made one of these and it works well. A restriction will be needed to minimize the vacuum in the tubes as the engine will easily pull the fluid into the dominant carb very quickly!



I stopped by Harbor Frieght recently and picked up a Vacumm/Fuel Pressure guage that was reasonably priced to try it out. Will pick up another one for the 2 cylinder bike engines I have and set it up for a carb synch.
 

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I have the same set,They work ok make sure you install the little plastic valves otherwise the needles will bounce all over, and you'll need to take a reading write them down than swap sides and take reading again and compare. You may need to fine tune each gauge until both gauges read the same on the same side of the bike (yes the gauges are adjustable)in the final carb setting the actual reading is not important just get them as close as possable.
 

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Guages can be innacurate, a goood water column can't be argued with.
 

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As Don mentioned, I've got this gauge set. It's not great, but it works OK. When I switch sides, they are noticeably off. I may try connecting them to one side using a T, in order to calibrate them.



The last couple years, I've been using a set of home-made bottle gauges. These are almost too sensitive, the real problem being that the water will all get sucked into one bottle (be sure there's no more than one bottle's worth between the two, or it will get sucked into the engine), and you'll need to pull both hoses or shut down the engine to let them rebalance. I ran down my battery one day last summer with all the restarts trying to get it perfect.



This coming spring, I think I'll try Brian's Two-Hoses-on-a-Stick tool. One thing I would change, though: it would be better to cap each hose, rather than letting them be connected (which has the same flow-through problem as the bottles.) This would allow them to act like a mercury manometer, only they need to be much longer with the lighter fluid. It will be important to use something like ATF, which is somewhat viscous, and combustible, in case some escapes into the intake. The 5w30 that I initially used in the bottles, by the way, was too viscous to get any reading at all.



I'll probably cap the ends with aquarium valves to make loading the tubes with fluid easier. It would also allow me to adjust the bubble of air at the top to control the range of fluid movement.



R
 

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I have those too. They do a fine job...to calibrate then I tee them together and use my MightyVac brake bleeder to apply some vacuum. There's screw on the back you can adjust the gauges with.
 

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4CTSV about $12 http://www.federalcorp.com/media/section4-3.pdf (Way down at he near bottom)



Local supplier, but all places that deal with Weiss guages will have them. 4-1/2" dial, 1%, can't beat that.



I use a lot of their pressure gauges and couldn't be happier.
 

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Marshall, those look like nice gauges. And the price...Very Nice.



Randall, I was in Wal*Mart last night killing time and doing some Xmas shopping. I stopped in the pet dept. and picked up a dual aquarium valve set for less than a $5 bill. It will need to be modified to close off the center section to make 2 individual valves. It is see thru plastic, so a dollop of silicone sealant/hot glue/chewing gum should do the trick.



I may try this all out later (aquarium valves & HF vacuum gauge) at a later date this month. Looks like I have to pack my bags and head out to Evansville, IN for a new contract job starting on Monday.
I will be gone for up to 2 weeks, but should be back home in time for Xmas.
 

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It will need to be modified to close off the center section to make 2 individual valves.
I hadn't thought of using a single valve between the ends. That would make it easy to fill them with fluid.



I do suspect there will need to be a little air in the closed ends to get a usable reading (but I'm frequently mistaken.) Adding a T and bleed valve next to the mating valve would make that adjustment simple.



R
 

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Randall, I have a mercury tube set up that you or anyone else here in the Twin Cities may use at any time.



Wayne.
 
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