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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found a few old threads on the subject, kinda leaned towards finding carb spray which is easily found at Canadian Tire, but what I'm not finding is a bucket of carb cleaner/dip.

Anyone in Canada/Ontario know where to buy some? I have my carbs totally apart (using Larry's guide) and would like to soak over night in some carb cleaner to help soften/loosen up some stuff but not finding it at the nearest Canadian Tires, Princess Auto, or similar stores.

Ideally I'd like to get something like this to dunk the whole thing into one at a time... or at least a 4-5 litre jug and I can buy a tupperware bin with a lid at the dollar store to use.

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use pinesol over night on all but the slider and any rubber pieces. It will clean it up very well you will be surprised!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Debated that... was going to boil with Pinesol 20min and use Simple Green in the sonic cleaner.

I didn't want to soak in Simple Green though because heard it discolours the metal... for example, this post.

Pinesol, soaking may be an idea... this guy did it and seems to have worked out pretty good.

I have Varsol, but only a smaller jug of 500ml, not enough to really soak in but I used Varsol before (Princess Auto had a 4l jug labelled as parts cleaner) and soaked my caliper in it to get stuff softened up. Had it in there the better part of the week and no harm. That's why I was looking at a carb dip. Dump the parts in Sunday night then Sat morning days later, I can work on the parts. I don't get much done during the week so, if can safely soak something 5 days, why not.

I looked at TSC, Home Hardware, Princess Auto, Canadian Tire... no luck... but it is on Amazon.ca... makes sense... when you can't find an automotive product at an automotive store, go to Amazon.

LINK

Of course... would rather buy it this week than wait 1-2 weeks for it via mail, so, may give the Pinesol a try. Soak it in Pinesol, then do a short boil then transfer the parts to the sonic cleaner with Simple Green.
 

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If I can try and save you some extra work...............you have an ultra sonic, why dip? Just run them in the ultra sonic for hours with the heater on and the simple green/water mix works a treat. I still haven't had a set of dirty carbs not come out super clean
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I dip overnight before ultrasonicing. It really loosens the crap up, particularly varnish.
That's my thinking... I have 25yrs of heavy varnish, maybe 35yrs if these have never been cleaned before... varnish and an almost black/brown tar of sorts. Figured save some hydro and let it soak a day or two. I think for the amount I'd need to have it sit in the Ultrasonic with Simple Green, I might have that discolouring happen from the link I posted. That's my main fear.

I had the bolts from my caliper in CLR for about 30-40min... was great one minute, walked away and came back and they turned almost black. I had to scrub them with toothpaste and get a brass wire wheel on a dremel and give everything a go over to clean that stuff off. I'd like to avoid that extra work. :D

On a side note... when you guys do your carbs... do you fully dismantle them? I noticed in Larry's guide that stuff on the side of the carbs (springs/levers/etc) and the flaps inside stay together.
 

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I go by Larrys book and remove everything but the butterflies. There's a risk with the butterfly screws coming out and being ingested by the motor once the factory staking has been compromised. They're best left alone unless there's a particular reason for removing them.

Sometimes I remove the right choke butterfly and shaft to address wear here. In this instance the screws go back with threadlocker and I have a pair of vice grops that I can give the staking that sticks up a bit of a squeeze for good measure.
 

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When using Pinesol use straight no heat for 12 hours give the carbs a little brushing wih tooth brush then let soak for another 12 hours IF needed...do not let soak for a week! The most I have left carbs in Pinesol was 24 hours and they came out like new, but beware.....do it in stages.......you will see a difference and then judge how much longer......no need to wash the pinesol off, just brush it around as it will turn like a jelly if your carbs are super dirty as it soaks up the crud......I haven't tried heating it as the stuff works well cold. I have done maybe 5 carbs like this with fantastic results so far....just my first one was a pain as I put the slider in also and it ate the coating off the slider and ruined it....but the rest of the carb doesn't have this coating I have found......so go slow, 12 hours at a time and check.....it's cheap and non corrosive to your hands and smells better than any other cleaner that I have used so far. I have used the extremely strong carb cleaners in the past that you get from automotive shops.....once it melted my finger nails in less than 2 minutes so be very very carefull and the fumes were killer too! I find the pinesol dies just as good a job imho...you will be surprised. I was shocked!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was looking at all the springs/levers/clips etc on the outside of the carbs and although cleaned by the soaking and sonic cleaning after, I'm thinking that any kind of real cleaning won't happen... like polishing, or even refinishing some parts or painting. Unless I missed it, I don't think Larry's book covered that stuff.

Pinesol, been reading more today and lots of posts out there saying that after 6h the metal starts to darken in some cases.

Do you dilute your Pinesol at all? or just straight soak? I was thinking mixing 1:1 and soaking a few hours, then sonic clean with Simple Green 1:3 with water, heat on for 20min. Kinda see where I'm at and go from there.

One of those days where I'd rather be at home testing it out right now, but, stuck at work. :S
 

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I haven't seen any darkening on any of the carbs I have soaked and some were up to 24 hours, with a shake and brushing around the halfway mark.......I do wash them well afterwards with hot water and then with carb spray just for my own satifaction and then after that with compressed air to get them completely dry.....Start with a 6 hour straight soak no diluting...I never dilute it.....I also never heat it, maybe that is why they saw discolouration? Try it cold, you can always use your sonic cleaner afterwards if it's not to your liking right....?
 

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Hi folks,
I have to agree with Kameron here. Why soak when you have a sonic cleaner! The sonic cleaner will do all the work for you!
If you want to loosen some of the exterior grime from the carbs before you put them in the sonic, then spray them off with carb spray or use an engine degreaser and scrub them with a brush first and rinse them off with hot water. Even if you do that, you'll be surprised at the amount of grunge that will be in the solution after the sonic cleaner does it's job.

Soaking the bodies in anything that has acid or citrus in it will definitely turn the castings of the bodies black, especially if your letting them sit and soak for days. The black film can be removed from the exterior of the bodies, but it takes a very fine wire brush wheel like the ones I use from a jewelery supply store. Like these, Products - Brushes - Wheel Brushes - Steel Wire Brushes - Grobet USA You can soda blast them, but why make additional work! I've gotten more than a few sets from people that have soaked and/or boiled their carbs in acid/citrus based solutions.

On the back page of my book is a short outline of my sonic cleaning. It's short yes, but I was limited to any additions due to copy write rules on updates after I first released the book. If you read it, it states that I use SIMPLE GREEN PRO HD that is safe for aluminum. NOT the standard Simple green cleaner. SIMPLE GREEN PRO HD is a cleaner that's safe for all metals including aluminum. you need to know that all aluminum's are not the same. The bodies of these carbs are a cast aluminum that is more porous than the rest of the parts attached to them, accept for those that use an accelerator pump. The pump housings are made with an exceptionally poor quality of aluminum casting and can be dissolved in any cleaner that has an acidic base. Including carb dips like the OP showed a picture of at the beginning of this post. On page 21 of my book at the top of the page, I have in bold print a warning not to put these pump covers in a carb dip. BUT, IT IS SAFE to put these pump covers in a sonic cleaner with the Simple Green Pro HD. I should have edited that in my last undated printing. I'm sorry now I didn't. I have also change the dilution rate from 4 to 1, to 8 to 1. The HD Pro is more concentrated than the normal solution of simple green cleaners that you get at most auto stores, and takes a milder solution to do the job since it's stronger. Here is a link to the product I use, Simple Green Pro HD

Now for the cleaning process I practice with great success. Below is a direct copy of what's in the latest release of my book. (only the solution mixture is changed). You'll notice in BOLD and underlined sections the things you need to pay close attention to.

Ultrasonic Cleaning
Many have asked specifics concerning the methods I prefer when the sonic cleaner is used. Due to space I’ll keep this short. In any sonic cleaner I use
Simple Green Pro HD mixed at 8 to 1 or less. It’s safe for ALL the parts of the carbs and won’t hurt anything. Heating the solution helps, but you don’t need to get it super hot. I do an initial cleaning for an hour of two to remove the surface grime, then rinse and flush the parts and change the solution and leave them running for an entire day. If you leave the carbs in dirty solution for the entire day like I do, the dirt will stain the bodies and make them dark. Once their in the clean solution they can stay as long as you can keep the sonic running. Make sure to rotate them once an hour so all the debris falls from the passages. Then rinse and flush them as per the cleaning section. Compressed air is recommended to dry them out. Remember, the longer you let them sit in the sonic the better. Too clean is not a problem. But not being clean enough is!


With all this said, when I get a set of carbs to rebuild I always do the initial cleaning for an hour or two, then change the solution so it's free and clear of any debris and grim removed in the initial solution. By leaving ALL the grim and debris on the carbs from the initial first cleaning in the sonic, including the exterior, I'm assured that the interior passages are as clean as possible too since I can see that all the exterior build up has been removed by the sonic waves. If the sonic has cleaned the exterior to it's best, then the interior has been cleaned out to it's best also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So... the not green Simple Green it is then.

Good thing I like the smell of pinesol, since I already bought a gallon of it. :D Side note, is it me, or does the 'new long lasting scent' pinesol, not smell like pinesol? Can't find the original anywhere anymore.

I have a 2.5l sonic cleaner, same as what you guys in the USA get from Harbor Freight, except up here in Canada it doesn't say Chicago on the front. I figured if I soaked it and loosened stuff up, I'd save on having it in the sonic cleaner. Since I have a 2.5l model not a professional sized one, it likely means rotating the carb every 20min. Even less maybe, the max time setting on this thing is 8 minutes... kinda lame. The presets are the downfall to the sonic cleaner... should have just been a +/- time in minutes instead of presets.

And... speaking of Canada... we can get the Simple Green HD here at Canadian Tire, which is good. Getting tired of seeing recommended cleaners/tools in forums only to discover no one in Canada sells it. :D
 

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I can't reply on the pine-sol since I only use what I know for sure what works for me.

Yes, the sonic cleaner you have is a pain to keep turned on, but the attention to keeping it running for the day will be a major advantage in the end results. The action of that cleaner is on par with any professional sonic if you keep it running as long as possible. I used one for two years before I upgraded and they will clean the parts and passages if you keep your attention on keeping them on.

Last note, abandon the pinesol and go with the HD in the sonic.
 
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I just use a bit of dishwashing liquid in mine. WhenI first bought my ultrasonic I managed to find normal simple green at a bearing shop. It was around $23 for a 900 ml? pump pack. I can't afford that and it's not Larrys current recommendation anyway. I've dipped carbs for years before I bought the ultrasonic so I retain this step. Otherwise, everything is by the Larry book. I still occasionally also dip in white vinegar. Used to do this routinely but now only if there is a lot of minerals and only for about an hour. Fortunately for me my ultrasonic timer goes to 30 minutes or so, but I still only run 15 minute or so cycles. Never use the heating function either. I put warm water in and that's good enough.
 

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I can't reply on the pine-sol since I only use what I know for sure what works for me.

Yes, the sonic cleaner you have is a pain to keep turned on, but the attention to keeping it running for the day will be a major advantage in the end results. The action of that cleaner is on par with any professional sonic if you keep it running as long as possible. I used one for two years before I upgraded and they will clean the parts and passages if you keep your attention on keeping them on.

Last note, abandon the pinesol and go with the HD in the sonic.
Larry, are you new on these boards? You sound like you have some experience with these bikes, great to have you on here! :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Unrelated... question about people who have that ultrasonic cleaner. I have read some reviews about it before I bought it where people used them and they eventually die because water gets into the crack between the metal tub and the plastic at the top. Not because they over fill but because it gets ion when pouring the water/solvents out. I was debating putting a strip around the edge, either electrical tape or that caulk-strip tape, but didn't know if would affect the cleaners ability to function. Being sonic, the strip might deaden the sound somewhat. I did read later that the plastic basket absorbs like 5% more of the sound than the metal basket.

Anyone have any issues with these dying due to moisture? or ever tried sealing up the crack?

Also, for small parts that fall between the holes in the basket, do you put something on the bottom of the basket first? or put the parts on a small plate and lower it in? I don't want the parts touching the metal tub because of potential damage.
 
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