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I have a carb problem. The right side is leaking.
Well it was more like weeping now it is flowing out the overflow tube.
I pretty much figured it is one of 3 things.
1) stuck float valve - put the stock one back in last night because I thought this might be it but it did not help
2) cracked overflow tube - I have soldered the royal piss out of these things. I had my propane torch on it trying to get that brass tube to take solder! Is there a secret I am missing!?!?!? Got the left one but not so sure about the right one...
3) messed up drain screw. - I can pour gas into it and have it not leak until I remount the carbs then drip drip drip.
So I decided that I would swap the carb bowls and see if the problem followed the bowl.
The right side was weeping a little to start with before the swap. I swapped the bowls and now the right side pours out as fast as the little hose can carry it, literally. The left side is still happy and holding gas.
Hard to test for over heating when your losing gas so fast that your test tank is empty before you reach temp!
So I do not think I learned anything with this test. I have not swapped them back but I am about ready to just go to hobby lobby and get some brass tubes to 'sleeve' the overflow tubes with.
Is there a method of getting brass to take solder or is it just get it hotter? I had it as hot as I was comfortable with and the solder melted as it made contact with the part. If it was copper I would have said ti was too hot but the brass did not take solder well. What am I missing?
Is it better to cut the tubes off, drill out the holes, and try to press new ones in? Or is it better to sleeve them? Or is there a solder that is made for brass? I have soldered to copper and tin and all kinds of stuff between plumbing and being an electronics engineer. I am familiar with soldering but this brass is just refusing it. If it is just more heat I can break out my mapp gas torch and get it hot enough to slag the bowl. I might feel better after doing that too!
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Well it was more like weeping now it is flowing out the overflow tube.
I pretty much figured it is one of 3 things.
1) stuck float valve - put the stock one back in last night because I thought this might be it but it did not help
2) cracked overflow tube - I have soldered the royal piss out of these things. I had my propane torch on it trying to get that brass tube to take solder! Is there a secret I am missing!?!?!? Got the left one but not so sure about the right one...
3) messed up drain screw. - I can pour gas into it and have it not leak until I remount the carbs then drip drip drip.
So I decided that I would swap the carb bowls and see if the problem followed the bowl.
The right side was weeping a little to start with before the swap. I swapped the bowls and now the right side pours out as fast as the little hose can carry it, literally. The left side is still happy and holding gas.
Hard to test for over heating when your losing gas so fast that your test tank is empty before you reach temp!
So I do not think I learned anything with this test. I have not swapped them back but I am about ready to just go to hobby lobby and get some brass tubes to 'sleeve' the overflow tubes with.
Is there a method of getting brass to take solder or is it just get it hotter? I had it as hot as I was comfortable with and the solder melted as it made contact with the part. If it was copper I would have said ti was too hot but the brass did not take solder well. What am I missing?
Is it better to cut the tubes off, drill out the holes, and try to press new ones in? Or is it better to sleeve them? Or is there a solder that is made for brass? I have soldered to copper and tin and all kinds of stuff between plumbing and being an electronics engineer. I am familiar with soldering but this brass is just refusing it. If it is just more heat I can break out my mapp gas torch and get it hot enough to slag the bowl. I might feel better after doing that too!
Any ideas would be appreciated.