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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got my bike to a point where it is ridable. I am having a lot of fun since it's been many years since I have owned a bike.

I am planning on riding the bike thru the summer and then finishing the cosmetic stuff in the cooler months.

One thing happened saturday morn.... couldn't get it into neutral. No matter how i shifted, it just wouldn't happen. Finally, at

the end of a short ride, it popped in and seemed to be OK.

Thoughts?

 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Is your clutch fully disengaging? Sometimes a little too much drag will make shifting difficult, especially at a stand-still.





R
 

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Try giving it some gas just free rev the engine a bit, I have to do it on mine from time to time, I think it means the clutch isn't perfectly adjusted, but when I adjust it either it slips or doesn't disengage as well, so I just deal with it, but I'll just put a little pressure on the shifter and hit the throttle a little and it usually pops into neutral then, I believe it's because it isn't fully disengaged, but it's not engaged enough to handle the extra power, so it then slips so to speak
 

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I'm with Cdyoung on this one. If you haven't downshifted to neutral while the bike is in motion, then finding neutral while stopped can be difficult - sometimes. With the clutch lever pulled in, rev the engine and while the RPM's are dropping you should be able to shift down or up to neutral, or the next gear.
 

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Nice Cafe treatment - I have 2 GL500Is and one naked GL500. While I like the interstate model alot I may cafe the Naked bike.



Did you hide the battery in the seat cone?



Do you have any photos of the right hand side.





Thanks
 

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I've ridden many bikes over the years and most can be difficult to find neutral when stopped with the clutch disengaged. It's because the neutral detent is shallower than first and second. The slightest drag from the clutch holds the gears tight enough making the force to shift out of gear high enough that it skips over neutral. It's designed so you don't accidentally find neutral. My tactic is to shift to neutral while still rolling. You can find it every time.



TT
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nice Cafe treatment - I have 2 GL500Is and one naked GL500. While I like the interstate model alot I may cafe the Naked bike.



Did you hide the battery in the seat cone?



Do you have any photos of the right hand side.





Thanks


I hid my Ballistic battery under the seat. The thing is so small, it was easy.

The seat is hinged as well.

I will post some shots tomorrow.
 

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its odd....kill the engine,you will find neutral easy and every time
 

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This is NOT a slam, cutdown or snide remark....I'm just wondering because I really do NOT know:



What is the fascination with removing the air box and putting in those pod filters ? I see many do this yet I hear of nothing but problems getting the bike to run right ie carb jetting etc etc.



So I ask of ye, WHAT is the benefit of those pod filters ?
 

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There is no benefit to fitting pod filters unless you change the Carbs to none Constant velocity ones IMHO.It's purely cosmetic and actually decreases performance overall.The Honda fuel system using CV carbs rely on the Air-box and filter system and to some degree the engine oil blow-back for the correct carburetion as it does with the Collector/balance box and correct exhausts.

As the low speed idle mixture circuit is not changeable just changing jets will not achieve the desired effects that a None CV set of carbs could be tuned to for better performance.Some people who have fitted pods have managed to get closer by fitting a pipe across the carbs to aid a more balanced and metered air-flow.You may gain some upper rev band power but stop/start normal riding will be affected e.g from 1100 rpm to say 3,000 rpm.



I would image the guru of tuning would be this guy,



http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/to..._p__76348__hl__salt__fromsearch__1#entry76348



I'm sure I'm not 100% right above but there's a lot more to getting an engine right after altering from stock than people imagine and unless you have access to proper test gear e.g Dyno/Rolling roads/Exhaust gas analyses etc it would be very hard to compete with the multi million pound/dollar testing gear people like Honda have.





However this should not stop people trying and good luck to them
 

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As noted above, plus the oil you use and the condition thereof also make a difference. Often changing brands and viscosity, or changing the oil will help. Assuming the mechanical stuff is in order, experiment a bit with the oil.
 

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I wouldn't fit pods to any CX that was to be my regular rider.



However, I do have the rotting remnants of one in my back shed that will eventually be built into a fairly impracticle machine - just for kicks, this will have pods.



This bike though I will consider a toy rather than transport.



It'll also have its frame raked and stretched at the neck [by cutting and shutting two frames] so it probably won't handle very well either, or be able to carry a passenger.



Otherwise, I will leave the airboxes right where they are on my bikes.
 
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