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Discussion Starter #623
Good luck with the painting of your tank! More fun to do it yourself plus it's rewarding once you see the results. BTW, I don't see any dish soap or wet sandpaper in your photo next to your prep... :dontknow:
Thanks, we shall see if painting is another skill I can add to the list :p
Yeah exactly, assuming it turns out all right lol. Oh yeah don't worry, I have some 1500 and 2000 grit paper from the first time I did the tank and the soapy water is readily available under the kitchen sink.
I should've said that the stuff in the picture is just the new supplies I've bought for the tank. I also have some thinner in the basement in order to clean the surface after stripping the old paint off.

I might have to pick up some bondo as well, depending if the tank is in good condition after stripping it down to bare metal.

Wet sanding is the key to a great finish
Agreed! First time I did the tank I had a fair amount of orange peel, and after a nice sanding it was pretty smooth. I didn't have a thick enough layer of clear though because I burnt through the clear when sanding the first time.
Hopefully this time around I will do a bit better job and definitely take my time with doing a light sanding between all the layers.
 

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Thanks, we shall see if painting is another skill I can add to the list :p
Yeah exactly, assuming it turns out all right lol. Oh yeah don't worry, I have some 1500 and 2000 grit paper from the first time I did the tank and the soapy water is readily available under the kitchen sink.
I should've said that the stuff in the picture is just the new supplies I've bought for the tank. I also have some thinner in the basement in order to clean the surface after stripping the old paint off.

I might have to pick up some bondo as well, depending if the tank is in good condition after stripping it down to bare metal.



Agreed! First time I did the tank I had a fair amount of orange peel, and after a nice sanding it was pretty smooth. I didn't have a thick enough layer of clear though because I burnt through the clear when sanding the first time.
Hopefully this time around I will do a bit better job and definitely take my time with doing a light sanding between all the layers.
Good stuff! I wouldn't be surprised if you go through another can of primer if using Bondo though especially if using the Dominion brand primer. Had really good results using the SprayMax 2K primer though. I went with I think I went through 2+ cans as I really wanted to get it right and not have layers plus a wanted a really good base before laying the top coat. I also don't want to recall the amount spent from Napa on paints and clear. Could have easily got it done professionally with cost paid, but like I said, it's enjoyable. Can't wait to see what you have up your sleeves...
 

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Discussion Starter #625
Good stuff! I wouldn't be surprised if you go through another can of primer if using Bondo though especially if using the Dominion brand primer. Had really good results using the SprayMax 2K primer though. I went with I think I went through 2+ cans as I really wanted to get it right and not have layers plus a wanted a really good base before laying the top coat. I also don't want to recall the amount spent from Napa on paints and clear. Could have easily got it done professionally with cost paid, but like I said, it's enjoyable. Can't wait to see what you have up your sleeves...
Yeah I will have to see how the surface looks after 2-3 coats of primer but you may be right. The primer is actually dupli-color brand as well, just the paint stripper is Dominion brand, but I still might need another can depending on how bad the tank is.
Yeah I think I saw the 2k primer at NAPA, but I was trying to save a bit of money and figured the self etching stuff would be fine too, although I probably only saved $5 or so lol.
Very true haha, the items you see in the picture are about $125 worth of products, which isn't too bad all things considered, but still definitely not cheap.

Hopefully this weekend I will be able to fool around with some practice pieces of metal and test out the colors and whatnot before actually doing the tank.
 
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Discussion Starter #626
The seat is in! And is it nice! :eek:

So yesterday I decided to strip the tank to get it ready for paint. The paint remover I got worked great, but I needed to buy a second can just because of how many layers of paint were on there. The tank must have been 4-5 different colors throughout it's life and they were all layered on there.
After two cans of the stripper I got down to the first layer of primer and that was good enough for me. I will sand the rest smooth and make sure to wet sand the primer after a couple new coats are put on. I want to make sure that the base is perfectly smooth before painting anything!

IMG_9856.JPG

Then just after I had finished stripping the tank I got a call from Bill Buchanan at Gold Star Upholstery in Cambridge. My seat was done!
So I rushed over there to pick it up and I was very pleased with the result!
He had done an excellent job shaping the foam the way I had asked, and the stitching was top-notch in my opinion. Far better than anything I could ever dream of doing.
The diamond stitching on the top looked amazing and the way the diamonds were formed gave them a really soft feel and look.
Speaking of soft, the material we went with looks and feels great. It is a synthetic leather (I guess you could call it vinyl too) so it should hold up really well to the elements with minor care, and it has a very nice texture to it. There is a plastic film just below the surface to stop water from getting into the foam as well.
The red thread has a UV protection coating on it to stop it from fading in the sun too.
Overall I think he did a bang-up job!

When I put it on the bike I noticed a couple issues however, but only because of my own stupidity. The part of the seat pan that I had formed to fit around the base of the tank was tight. When I was bending the metal I didn't think to leave enough room for the fabric and so it is a bit tight now. I will try and make it a bit wider just so it slides over cleaner and matches the lines of the bike better.
Also after putting it on the bike I feel like it might be a bit too thick. About 1/2"-3/4" thinner would probably be ideal and depending on how I feel I might shave the foam down a bit later on, but for now it is fine.

But both these issues are my own fault, and have nothing to do with the upholster! Bill did a fantastic job doing what I had asked of him and if anyone is looking for a seat to be made, I would highly recommend going to him! The price was very fair and the quality of work very nice. Bill was very down-to-earth and a pleasure to do business with. He also recommended a good fabric conditioner to put on the seat once every 3 months or so in order to keep the fabric shiny and soft.

So yeah....enough ranting, here are some pictures of the seat in all it's glory:

IMG_9858.JPG

IMG_9859.JPG

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And one last one with the seat in place. I apologize for the ugliness of the tank, but I am hoping to have that fixed in the next couple weeks or so. The tank is just laid on top of the bike too.

IMG_9862.JPG

Alright that's my update for now. As you were :p
 

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Seat looks tight! And for the amount you initially posted to have it made, that's a real deal! I also finally conditioned mine with a product to protect and give it much more sheen called Urad cream and the difference is phenomenal. Don't be too bothered by the height. Depending on what type of foam your upholster used, after your ass is planted on it for some time, it's most likely to compress some I would think.
 

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Don't wet sand your primer too much especially with too fine a grit or the final coats will have nothing to adhere to. They need a rough surface so to speak not a glass smooth one....I have learned that lesson the hard way also.....main coat started flaking off after a few months.....better to get a good coat of primer and sand smooth with 200 maybe slightly finer then add many fine coats to build up the final colours then wet sand those to get the surface glass smooth.....just a thought. Very nice seat!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #629
Seat looks tight! And for the amount you initially posted to have it made, that's a real deal! I also finally conditioned mine with a product to protect and give it much more sheen called Urad cream and the difference is phenomenal. Don't be too bothered by the height. Depending on what type of foam your upholster used, after your ass is planted on it for some time, it's most likely to compress some I would think.
Thanks! Yeah I thought so too. I was worried it might be too good to be true, but I guess being the guinea pig turned out to be successful this time around lol.
I will have to give that stuff a look see. Where can I pick it up? The stuff that Bill suggested is Sluyter Leather-Care spray. If I can find the Urad cream easier than I will just go with that.

Very true! I'll leave it for now and if it still bothers me down the road I'll make the change. Gotta mess with everything on the bike after all :p
 

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Discussion Starter #630
Don't wet sand your primer too much especially with too fine a grit or the final coats will have nothing to adhere to. They need a rough surface so to speak not a glass smooth one....I have learned that lesson the hard way also.....main coat started flaking off after a few months.....better to get a good coat of primer and sand smooth with 200 maybe slightly finer then add many fine coats to build up the final colours then wet sand those to get the surface glass smooth.....just a thought. Very nice seat!!!
Good point! As usual lol. Glad you mentioned that before I got the sanding done. It makes lots of sense now that I think about it. I have some 220 or 600 grit laying around so I'll use that just to even out the surface a bit more and then after all the color coats have been put on I'll do the wet sanding.
Thanks for the tips!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #631
So instead of doing homework this evening, I wanted to get the primer put on the tank just so I could start laying out designs and seeing what fits over the next week or so.

First step was to do a lot of sanding to even out the surface of the tank. I used 600 grit, but then after reading Willys comment, I figured the primer would bite more if I used 200, so I switched to that.

Taking the time to do this right:

IMG_9881.JPG

All cleaned up and ready for primer:

IMG_9882.JPG

Giving the underside of the tank a fresh coat of paint too:

IMG_9883.JPG

And finally, after 4 coats of self-etching primer:

IMG_9884.JPG

Looks pretty good for a starting point, but I will still do some light sanding to get the next coat to stick to it.
 
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Thanks! Yeah I thought so too. I was worried it might be too good to be true, but I guess being the guinea pig turned out to be successful this time around lol.
I will have to give that stuff a look see. Where can I pick it up? The stuff that Bill suggested is Sluyter Leather-Care spray. If I can find the Urad cream easier than I will just go with that.

Very true! I'll leave it for now and if it still bothers me down the road I'll make the change. Gotta mess with everything on the bike after all :p
Well, I think you being a test subject has been successful not only to you, but to many others that will be knocking down his door for a set made now! lol I think to really absorb into the vinyl or leather, you would want something that is rubbed on rather than just sprayed on, but that's just my opinion. The cream has only two ingredients which are the best for leather and vinyl: lanolin and curuba wax. It's not cheap, but keep in mind it comes in a large jar, and can be used for your leather car seats, dash, boots, jackets even car floor mats, non slippery and leaves a very light scent. You just use the smallest amount and it covers such a large area. They JUST got distribution throughout Canada as well and pretty sure any Moneyworth shoe store store also carries it. I'll PM you before and after pics as well as distribution locations in Ontario so I don't blow up your wall. I think you'll be really impressed with it and it's reviews. :D Can't wait to apply it on every piece of leather I own!
 

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Discussion Starter #633
Well, I think you being a test subject has been successful not only to you, but to many others that will be knocking down his door for a set made now! lol I think to really absorb into the vinyl or leather, you would want something that is rubbed on rather than just sprayed on, but that's just my opinion. The cream has only two ingredients which are the best for leather and vinyl: lanolin and curuba wax. It's not cheap, but keep in mind it comes in a large jar, and can be used for your leather car seats, dash, boots, jackets even car floor mats, non slippery and leaves a very light scent. You just use the smallest amount and it covers such a large area. They JUST got distribution throughout Canada as well and pretty sure any Moneyworth shoe store store also carries it. I'll PM you before and after pics as well as distribution locations in Ontario so I don't blow up your wall. I think you'll be really impressed with it and it's reviews. :D Can't wait to apply it on every piece of leather I own!
Lol yeah I told Bill that I will be recommending him to the guys on the forum, but I don't think he realizes how many of us there actually are haha :p
True, he mentioned that after spraying the product he rubs it in, but I like the idea of a simple cream with only two parts. No harsh chemicals and the results still look great!
Maybe I can get my parents to chip in as they have a few leather chairs lying around the house lol.
Got your PM. Thanks again for all the info, it will be worth it to keep the seat looking nice and feeling soft!
 
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Discussion Starter #634
So I learned something new today....the ignition switch on my bike has a steering lock apparently :confused:
The reason I never knew this was because I could never turn my key all the way into the lock position as it must have been stuck. I was always curious as to why the top had a "lock" position when it never did anything.
The one time I took the ignition switch off I noticed a little round pin shaped thing on the inside face of the switch but never knew what it was for so I just left it alone....until now.

I had to pick up a new ignition switch for a number of reasons. The old one was glitching out and I had to wiggle the key in order to get the rear running light to turn on (I am guessing the ACC contact was dirty). But that wasn't the only thing, the ignition switch had a cool feature.....you could take the key out while the bike was running LOL. I am guessing the mechanism had just worn down so much that the key could slide right out. Lastly, as I mentioned previously, the steering lock was jammed.

So instead of cleaning the switch, un-jamming the lock and running the risk of having my keys fly out while riding, I decided to pick up a new ignition switch. On this one I noticed the locking pin was able to come out and that's when I realized that the original one had it too but never worked.

So I guess you learn something new every day :p


The new ignition switch:

IMG_9889.JPG
 

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Is that the ebay generic one? I ordered one last week, waiting to receive it and I was wondering if it had the steering lock too
 

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Discussion Starter #636
Is that the ebay generic one? I ordered one last week, waiting to receive it and I was wondering if it had the steering lock too
I am not sure if it is the generic one or not. More than likely it is though as it looks very similar to many others I've seen.
I purchased it from PartsnMore.com. The box it came in had "SD Jinkun ignition switch - made in Taiwan" written on it.
The part number is 12-0050 and it is the 6 prong ignition switch.

Aside from that though there isn't much more information on it. Sorry if that isn't too helpful lol.
 

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I've read nearly this whole thread start to finish! Great stuff, great build!
I plan on utilizing a few ideas that you've had (taillight flasher and other electrical goodies), hope you don't mind.

I don't recall if you said, but where did you get your gauges? I've been looking at similar ones. I like the style but back lighting is terrible, hopefully it's an easy fix with a better bulb?!
 

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Discussion Starter #638
I've read nearly this whole thread start to finish! Great stuff, great build!
I plan on utilizing a few ideas that you've had (taillight flasher and other electrical goodies), hope you don't mind.

I don't recall if you said, but where did you get your gauges? I've been looking at similar ones. I like the style but back lighting is terrible, hopefully it's an easy fix with a better bulb?!
Thanks so much Willum! I'm glad you can use my build as inspiration for your own! By all means, use anything you like, I would feel honored if you did :)

The gauges I picked up from two different places. The tach came from Ebay: Mini Universal Motorcycle Mechanical 12K RPM Tach Tachometer Gauge 1 4 | eBay and the speedo came from PartsnMore.com.
If I remember though, they are both the generic EMGO ones that you can buy at a variety of places (dimecitycycles for one). The only reason why I purchased them from the two different places was because I wanted the black face and I couldn't find them with the correct ratios, and with Km/h instead of MPH anywhere else.
You are correct about the back lighting though, it does indeed suck! The bulbs can easily be changed, however they are very tiny bulbs and I still need to find the correct size LED replacements. It's fine for regular use, but definitely needs an upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #640
Know you already have your tank scheme planned, but saw this from Chemical Candy Customs and just had to share. Straight up sick paint skills. They also do work on lids as well. Check out their link to see what they pull off! :D
Chemical Candy Customs

View attachment 22127
That is an insane paint job!!! :eek:
I wish I had the skills and equipment to pull something like that off! It really is incredible to see what people can do with just paint. Thanks for sharing that!
 
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