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Discussion Starter #322
Positive it's with gas as there is a giant tank of it beside the welder. That being said.....I haven't checked the pressure on it at all....it's probably completely empty lol :stupid:
 

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Discussion Starter #324
Thanks! The lenses would be more for toning down the signals brightness if I find them too bright. They would have to be tinted if I put them on. For looks I agree, I think they turned out pretty good the way they.
 

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If your welds are filled with bubbles like an arrow chocolate bar then you do not have any gas turned on or it's run out. The splatter he is probably talking about is because he is pushing too much wire and it can't melt it fast enough or both too much heat and wire feed.....you can get small splatter looking results if the settings aren't correct.....nothing like fluxcore wire though! That shit is nasty! BUT again IF set up well it too can give extremely good welds....we used to run 48 feet at a time times 4 for each main beam on some trailers.....it was a nasty job.
 

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Discussion Starter #328
If your welds are filled with bubbles like an arrow chocolate bar then you do not have any gas turned on or it's run out. The splatter he is probably talking about is because he is pushing too much wire and it can't melt it fast enough or both too much heat and wire feed.....you can get small splatter looking results if the settings aren't correct.....nothing like fluxcore wire though! That shit is nasty! BUT again IF set up well it too can give extremely good welds....we used to run 48 feet at a time times 4 for each main beam on some trailers.....it was a nasty job.
Yep....I do believe I haven't been using the gas now lol. That mixed with the feed rate and no wonder I am not getting good results.
I was going to use flux cored wire for welding the hoop to the frame as the welder I will be renting doesn't come with gas normally....but now I am thinking that I may look into getting the gas instead.

Unless you turned it on, there's no gas.
R
Yeahhhhh I might not have been using it the whole time hahaha. I have to fix something up today so I will take a look see and make sure there is gas in there.

DUDE THOSE LOOK SEARING.

Extremely cool work!
Thanks! I am very happy with how they turned out too.
 

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Discussion Starter #329
So, for those who are interested, feed rate on a welder makes a HUGE difference! Taking all the wonderful advice from you guys, I took some time and did a few practice welds.

First thing I checked was the gas and we did have some in the tank and it was on. I think the problem with that was I was not holding the gun close enough to the weld so the gas wasn't able to do its job fully.
Second thing I did was slow down the feed rate about 50% and boy did that make a big difference. I had it a bit too slow at first as there was no crackling, then sped it up a tiny bit and hit the sweet spot.
Welds were coming out perfectly (or perfect for a rookie at least haha) and I was able to do long beads instead of just spot welding everything.
Very little-to-no splatter and the welds were solid all the way through, no bubbles or gaps.

I still need to practice getting a more steady hand, but compared to what it was I am very happy! I feel much more confident now about welding in the hoop, and thank each one for their advice and help!
You guys rock! :thumbsup:
 

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Any time buddy......simply ask when in need....if I can help I will.
 

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Discussion Starter #331
So I taped the rear hoop on for now and I must say....it looks fantastic!

IMG_9274.JPG

IMG_9273.JPG

However...there was one small hiccup......
I put the new dampers on the bike to get a feel for the bottomed out clearance and like many others on here, the tire hits. Well, more specifically the rear fender hits the hoop.
I was half expecting this, and already had some ideas to solve the issue though.

First thing I did was add another small piece of rubber to the shocks to limit the travel by 1/2" (I have since cleaned up the pieces a bit to blend in more):

IMG_9275.JPG

Next thing I noticed was that if I cut out part of the bottom section of the hoop I could gain some more clearance. So took out the grinder and chopped a section out. It is still plenty of strong though don't worry and I can always make an upturned support inside if need be:

IMG_9277.JPG

Now, the biggest part to redo: the rear fender/license plate holder. I needed to have it sit further back on the tire, but I didn't want to mess around with the tubing again or the fender itself. So the bottom support piece had to be modified.
I cut a slot in the end and bent it downwards. Then filled in the gaps and ground it down. Re-drilled the hole for the shock mount and now it sits about 5-10° lower on the tire which lets it just clear the hoop (In the pictures you can see the bottom of the support piece is no longer perpendicular to the tubes).

Front:

IMG_9279.JPG

Back:

IMG_9278.JPG

After doing all these things I now have it so the tire no longer rubs on anything and the rear fender does not hit the hoop. It is a very tight clearance and I may add another smaller limiter in the shock just to be sure, but with the heavy duty springs and if I adjust the preload properly, I'd be surprised if it ever bottomed out fully like this. Still, I wanted to make sure if it ever did happen I was covered, and now it all fits good.

Tire and rear hoop clearance:

IMG_9280.JPG

Fender and rear hoop clearance:

IMG_9282.JPG
 

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Love the exhaust system and your treatment of the foot pegs...marvelous! Keep plugging away. You got a good thing going. (It is December now, so believe you are busy in the garage, wrench in one hand, the other scratching your head waiting for that next clever idea).
 

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Discussion Starter #335
Love the exhaust system and your treatment of the foot pegs...marvelous! Keep plugging away. You got a good thing going. (It is December now, so believe you are busy in the garage, wrench in one hand, the other scratching your head waiting for that next clever idea).
Thanks Robert! It's definitely a labor of love, but I am having a blast doing it. And you got it lol, I have to get this bike all finished before school starts up again as I will have very little time to work on it then. So for now it is a juggling act to get it all done in time.



And a beer in the other hand :)

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LOL, you should see me trying to lay stuff out on the bike, I have scissors and cardboard in my hands, a sharpie in my mouth, tape on my feet and a rag over my shoulders.....no room for anything else haha :p


Don't drink and wrench. (I screw up enough sober.) :rolleyes:
R
That too LOL!
 
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Discussion Starter #336
Got started on the pan to hold the electronics under the seat. I was looking at it and I found that the best way to do it would be in two sections. One for the front and one for the rear. Finished the front up on Saturday and going to try and get most of the rear one done tonight.

Made a template as best I could and transferred it to the metal:

IMG_9286.JPG

Cut it out, bent it and drilled the mounting hole. Some light sanding and cleaning up of the edges still needs to be done:

IMG_9290.JPG

IMG_9291.JPG

The way it mounts is one bolt through the rear and middle bracket on the frame (possibly where the airbox was previously attached to?) and then the front mounts between the rubber piece and the tank. When both bolts are tightened down it lifts the pan and it sits pretty flush with the bottom of the frame. A couple taps with a hammer to roll up the edges on the bottom a bit and it fits nicely.

IMG_9292.JPG

Front mount:

IMG_9289.JPG

The underside:

IMG_9293.JPG
 

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Back:

After doing all these things I now have it so the tire no longer rubs on anything and the rear fender does not hit the hoop. It is a very tight clearance and I may add another smaller limiter in the shock just to be sure, but with the heavy duty springs and if I adjust the preload properly, I'd be surprised if it ever bottomed out fully like this. Still, I wanted to make sure if it ever did happen I was covered, and now it all fits good.

Tire and rear hoop clearance:

View attachment 18577

Fender and rear hoop clearance:

View attachment 18578

Won't that rub once you put a new tire on? The tread is looking pretty worn in the centre on that one.
 

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Discussion Starter #338
Won't that rub once you put a new tire on? The tread is looking pretty worn in the centre on that one.
Yeah you are correct Owen, that tire is pretty much finished. There isn't much more I can do in terms of the frame to get better clearance except upturning the hoop or cutting a space out for the tire, both of which I was hoping to avoid.
The shocks I have can be set to be pretty firm if need be, so I think once I get the preload set right I won't be coming that close to the tire rubbing. That being said, if even on the highest preload setting I find that it is rubbing, I will add another little limiter to the shocks (probably 1/4" or so). Hopefully that should do it then and I won't have any more issues.
 

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Don't try avoiding making more clearance for the tire, whats going to happen if you ride 2 up?? If I could suggest that you get that solved now before you are finished and then realize its a problem once things are painted and wired.
This is the time to solve these problems
 
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Discussion Starter #340
Don't try avoiding making more clearance for the tire, whats going to happen if you ride 2 up?? If I could suggest that you get that solved now before you are finished and then realize its a problem once things are painted and wired.
This is the time to solve these problems
You do have a good point. I didn't think about the riding 2 up either, which makes a big difference. I will finish up the rear electrical pan tonight as that needs to have enough clearance too (where the wheel well used to sit), then I will work on making sure that there is no way the tire can rub on anything. More than likely I will just add that spacer, but I will also check to see if there is anything else I can do with the hoop/frame as the more I limit the shocks the stiffer they will have to be.
 
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