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Naaah that would be too much hahaha
You could layer it not with the end of one plate over the beginning of the other.
But two plates with a gap in between and one overlapping the gap and on top of the two other plates.

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Discussion Starter #222
Naaah that would be too much hahaha
You could layer it not with the end of one plate over the beginning of the other.
But two plates with a gap in between and one overlapping the gap and on top of the two other plates.

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Oh yeah I see what you're saying, that could work too. I think if I go that route though it would look better with each plate overlapping the next. I'll see what I can come up with looking at it over the next little bit. I will probably work on the license plate mount next just because I want to get all the welding out of the way before I go back to school.
 

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Discussion Starter #224
Yeah I think both could look great. I am just a little worried with how they will match the rest of the bike. The more I look at it the more it seems that something like the classic styling might work out better for the look I am going for. We'll see when the time comes though...
 
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Discussion Starter #225
Finally got a chance to upload the photos of the battery box.

As many others mentioned, with the open top of the box I had to drill some holes for drainage, because the last thing you want is that box filling up with any liquid at all. So it was off to mark out the holes and start drilling.
I know I didn't need as many holes as I put in it, but I figured "why not" :p

Laying out the holes and getting the right size drill bit:

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After drilling all the holes how it sat:

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After cleaning it all up and wiping it down it was time to spray it with some color. I was originally going to use truck bed spray, but then I found this undercoating stuff used for the bottoms of cars and wheel wells. Plus it said it was rubberized which would help keep all the electronics in check if anything bad were to happen. So I went with that and it worked well.
One thing to note, this stuff takes a long time to dry, so even though it says it only takes an hour to dry to the touch, don't stick your finger in the bottom of the box where the paint is thicker to see if it is dry, as you will leave a nice imprint (ask me how I know <_< ).
But it did turn out nice and should be plenty protected from the elements.

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The box all painted and ready for some rubber:

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Time to add some dampening. I cut strips of 1/8" thick rubber and glued them in place on the bottom and sides of the box. Made sure to test fit everything, and it was nice and snug in there. Won't be sliding around or hitting the walls anymore:

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A nice fit, almost like it was made to be that way...

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And finally a picture of it mounted under the bike. I originally thought that I would be able to get at the terminals of the battery (in case I needed a boost), but the mufflers and frame are in the way. So I may have a separate wire with a cap on it tucked under the seat just in case I need to boost the bike (which has needed to happen before).

IMG_9127.JPG
 

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Agreed! Handsome work. This is very similar to my vague plan. I'm gonna go with lithium, so I might be able to make the box smaller and also fit some other stuff in there. Seems like airflow could be engineered a bit to cool a rectifier, no?

Ha haaaa you just couldn't wait...here's my solution: spray a piece of scrap at the same time, as thickly as your thickest coat, and touch THAT to see if it's dry.

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Discussion Starter #228
Excellent work on the battery box!
Thanks Bill! I think it turned out alright....a little rough here and there, but alright :)


Agreed! Handsome work. This is very similar to my vague plan. I'm gonna go with lithium, so I might be able to make the box smaller and also fit some other stuff in there. Seems like airflow could be engineered a bit to cool a rectifier, no?

Ha haaaa you just couldn't wait...here's my solution: spray a piece of scrap at the same time, as thickly as your thickest coat, and touch THAT to see if it's dry.

NO TOUCHEE!
Thanks to you too chaetophile! Yeah if I had the money I would do that too, sounds like it is the way to go. Plenty of oomph with a small size.
Yeah you could have some fins underneath to direct airflow around the rectifier, almost like the bottom of a race car. I will be putting mine under my seat pan and may do something like that.

Yeah I know....I have a bad tendency to do it lol. It has happened on more than one occasion and I still haven't learned my lesson. I'm like a small child with a candy, I can't keep my hands off haha. But I do like that idea a lot!! I will do that from now on and keep my paint poking fingers off the actual piece :p
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Started work on the rear license plate mount. I am also working on the rear hoop and seeing if I can get my cousin to bend it for me. A guy at my work was very helpful and gave it a go, but the jig we used was a bit too small in the radius so the piece didn't meet up with the frame properly. Will hopefully have the hoop bent by the end of the week though.

So I went off the drawing and started to cut some cardboard and bend some coat hangers to make the mounting bracket. I figured the best way to make the bracket was in two pieces with the tubing welded in between them:

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It was time to start bending the tubing to match the coat hanger template:

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I have learned that it is very hard to work with tubing. I needed it to be tubing so I could run the wires through it, but in order to get the tight bends I wanted I tried to do little bends but just ended up kinking the tubing. Tried to hammer it out to make it smoother and after a while I ended up with square tubing lol

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So needless to say I needed a different method to get a nice rounded bend. So time to take out the jig saw and make relief cuts all along the edge of the pipe. This actually worked pretty well and I was able to get the right angles I needed just by cutting more slots:

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After doing one and making sure it was the right fit, I used it to lay out the second one which made it go a lot faster:

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Sooooooo much nicer than the other ones lol:

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Happy that they came out fairly even :biggrin-new:

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Picked up some welding gloves too so I wouldn't have to borrow my coworker's anymore. Hopefully today I have time to fill in the larger part of the cuts, just enough to stop the pipe from bending back. Then I will use Bondo on the inside edges to make it all nice and smooth and fill in any holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #232 (Edited)
you can use sand to help bending: fill sand in the tub and close each end to bend without cuting ;)
..........oh yeah......I should've done that. I am an idiot LOL

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make sure the sand is dry if you are going to do it..........also, there are shops out there that have bending equipment if it makes it easier.........it did for me
google is your friend
 
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Discussion Starter #234
make sure the sand is dry if you are going to do it..........also, there are shops out there that have bending equipment if it makes it easier.........it did for me
google is your friend
Good point! Moisture and metal don't go so well together. Would it affect the actual bend though? Just curious. Yeah I thought of that but was worried of the cost. I figured if I could save some money I should give it a go, but definitely the proper equipment would make life so much easier.
 

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sorry, I thought you were heating the tubbing with a torch to bend it. Its a method a lot of people have used which is why I say to use dry sand because if its damp and you heat it the water becomes vapour and can burst the tube
 

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Discussion Starter #236
sorry, I thought you were heating the tubbing with a torch to bend it. Its a method a lot of people have used which is why I say to use dry sand because if its damp and you heat it the water becomes vapour and can burst the tube
Ohhh okay that makes more sense. I didn't even think about that, but you're right, the steam would have a large effect, especially since both ends are plugged.
We have a small torch at home and I did heat up a few of the bends on the first piece, but they ended up coming out worse than the cold bends (I probably did it wrong though). I think if I had a proper jig to bend them around it would've turned out better.
 
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there are some vids on youtube about bending with sand and heat
 
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Discussion Starter #238
I probably should've looked at those first lol. I will watch them though and if I end up doing the rear hoop section myself I will use what they say for sure. Thanks for the tips!
 
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Hopefully today I have time to fill in the larger part of the cuts, just enough to stop the pipe from bending back. Then I will use Bondo on the inside edges to make it all nice and smooth and fill in any holes.
After tacking, go back and weld them all in. Then file the beads off.

The Bondo would probably crack when it flexes.


R
 

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Discussion Starter #240
After tacking, go back and weld them all in. Then file the beads off.

The Bondo would probably crack when it flexes.


R
I actually ended up doing that after all. I didn't think the weld would fuse the inside edge where the slits were touching, but after making a couple passes I found that it actually fused pretty good. Then a bit of grinding and you were right, it did turn out a lot better, and VERY strong. I might still use the Bondo just to get a bit more of a round shape on the weld areas as it's hard to be perfect with a grinder. Even just sanding it down the way it is now though the finish wouldn't be too bad though. Thanks for the advice Randall!
 
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