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1981 CX500 Custom
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287 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I love you guys, thank you for all the support. I have a piece of junk Harbor Freight multimeter that I don't think is capable of producing audible tones, but I just picked up a simple one on Amazon that can. It'll arrive tomorrow and I'll check this out. MobileAZN, I appreciate your offer of assistance and may call upon you! I love learning new skills. I have to point out that it was MobileAZN who taught me two very important things - how to properly crimp wires and bullet connectors (mine were HORRIFIC before his tutelage), and "you gotta have the right tool for the job." Members here have been just incredible. Nolimitz taught me to invest in tools instead of mechanics. I look at where I was before I started restoring my CX500 to where I am now, and it just blows me away. Excited to learn more new things!
 

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Have you opened it up to see if it can be cleaned and put back into service? Failure of key switches can typically be traced to carbon on the contact pad, which can be cleaned and restored to service. If the copper spring loaded contact got so hot that it deformed the plastic around it, repair may not be possible. I have found about 3 of 4 switches can be restored, but be warned.... the top and bottom(rotating and fixed parts) of the switch can be installed 180deg out, so testing the switch before installing is important

Steel wool or light sandpaper to clean the contacts, Lube well with dielectric grease before reassembly, check that the spring loaded contact pads move easily
TS
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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18,962 Posts
That may be worth a try but I have a couple here that have the lock part worn out.

FWIW, I bought a lock set for a CMX250C. The cap fit my GL500 tank and it wasn't hard to wire in the keyswitch. I still need a 2nd key for the trunk but it's better than when I needed 3 keys ;-)
 

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1981 CX500 Custom
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287 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Success!

I was able to use the EMGO switch without too much difficulty. I had to bore out the bolt holes a bit because the bolts that secure the switch are 8mm and the native holes seemed to be about 6mm. Once I got the holes widened, I was able to bolt it in and the wiring connector slotted right in. Turned the key to "ON" and my oil light and neutral light came on. Bike fired right up! All my fussing about the wiring layout appears to have been needless....it was seamless.

The only downside is that the barrel of the new switch is just a bit shorter than the original one, so where it pops out is a little off and not perfectly flush.



I think I might put a little bit of black RTV around it to seal it up nicely.

So, if there are any GL650 owners agonizing about getting a new ignition switch, this EMGO switch I bought seems to work perfectly! Woo-hoo!
 

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Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I thought it would be longer. As I said I don't have a GL650 one but the CX650E and GL500 ones I have are all about 20mm or so shorter than the GL1100 one.

Glad everything worked out.
 
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