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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I switched out my Buckhorn bars for Clubman style bars on my 1982 CX500 and now the throttle and clutch cables are very long. Does anyone here with a similar setup have the cable lenghts already figured out. Also do I need to go with Motion-Pro custom cables or will a cables from another year CX500 with lower handle bars work?



I am also not afraid to modify the existing cables if someone could point me in right direction for a DIY cable modification thread or site.





Have a happy and safe New Year!



Lance
 

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Several years ago I did a post on how to shorten cables, but I can't seem to find it now. What you can do is to make a new cable end from a brass bolt shank and drill a hole in it for the cable to go in. One side of the hole needs to be wider. With the cable cut to length, as well as the cable housing, fan out the tip of the cable after it's been put through the new end. Now you need to soldier the two together. In order to get the soldier to stick to the cable you need to use muriatic acid as the flux for the soldier. I used a propane torch to do mine. But be careful not to get it so hot that it melts the cable. Keep the flame on the cable end side. When it's heated up enough dip the cable end in muriatic acid and start soldiering. I would practice on an old section first though.



When your done just file the new end down to shape and your ready. I did this to all the cables on my sons CX500c a few years ago and their still holding up just fine. Even the clutch cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Several years ago I did a post on how to shorten cables, but I can't seem to find it now. What you can do is to make a new cable end from a brass bolt shank and drill a hole in it for the cable to go in. One side of the hole needs to be wider. With the cable cut to length, as well as the cable housing, fan out the tip of the cable after it's been put through the new end. Now you need to soldier the two together. In order to get the soldier to stick to the cable you need to use muriatic acid as the flux for the soldier. I used a propane torch to do mine. But be careful not to get it so hot that it melts the cable. Keep the flame on the cable end side. When it's heated up enough dip the cable end in muriatic acid and start soldiering. I would practice on an old section first though.





When your done just file the new end down to shape and your ready. I did this to all the cables on my sons CX500c a few years ago and their still holding up just fine. Even the clutch cable.




Larry,



In a million years I would not have thought to use a bolt. I am a Pipefitter by trade so soldering is the easy part. I might try and slip off to the hardware store either today or tomorrow and do some bolt shoppin'.



Thank you for this and all the other GREAT info you have posted. You have saved many of us untold amounts of money and heartburn.



Lance.
 

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If you can find brass bolts large enough to use for a cable, let me know who and where. I have hit every hardware store I can find with no luck. Billrod
 

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What did you do about the outer sheath, Larry? Did you pull the ferrule off the end of the cable before you shortened it, to reuse it? I've been casting around for a source for new ferrules, but it seems like Motionpro only sells stuff in a master kit for over $100, and Flanders' website says wholesale only. I'd love to be able to just get the Japanese sizes I need for these bikes: I don't need all the large and small sizes for everything else made in the world.
 

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Bill, Go look in the plumbing section. They sell 1/4" brass bolts to hold toilets down. But I know Home Depot has a brass bolt section in their hardware bins. Brass is easier to work with, but you could also use a regular steel bolt. Either way muriatic acid as a flux is necessary.



Jack, What you need to do is pull the cable out to it's full travel and measure the length between the cable housing and the end. Then you can cut the end off the cable, pull it out and cut the housing to the length you want. Then put the cable back in and set the barrel end where you want it to get the same measurement you had before you cut it. Cut the cable 1/8" longer and fray the ends out. Then heat the cable and barrel up, dip in the acid and soldier it up so it all flows together. When it's cooled off you can grind or file the excess off and make it round and smooth again.



I have reused the chrome ends again by pulling it off the cable and then hammer a drill bit down inside to expand it a little bit so it slides back on the new cut housing.



Also, some of the cable ends can be unsoldiered off the cables and used again. It's worth a try if your ends look ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bill, Go look in the plumbing section. They sell 1/4" brass bolts to hold toilets down. But I know Home Depot has a brass bolt section in their hardware bins. Brass is easier to work with, but you could also use a regular steel bolt. Either way muriatic acid as a flux is necessary.



Jack, What you need to do is pull the cable out to it's full travel and measure the length between the cable housing and the end. Then you can cut the end off the cable, pull it out and cut the housing to the length you want. Then put the cable back in and set the barrel end where you want it to get the same measurement you had before you cut it. Cut the cable 1/8" longer and fray the ends out. Then heat the cable and barrel up, dip in the acid and soldier it up so it all flows together. When it's cooled off you can grind or file the excess off and make it round and smooth again.



I have reused the chrome ends again by pulling it off the cable and then hammer a drill bit down inside to expand it a little bit so it slides back on the new cut housing.



Also, some of the cable ends can be unsoldiered off the cables and used again. It's worth a try if your ends look ok.


I went to Lowe's today and found two other sources of ferrules, 1/4" O.D. copper tubing and brass inserts for 3/8" compression fittings. It only requires you to drill one hole for the cable to enter. Once the cable was inserted and flared out I fluxed everything and filled the void with 95/5 solder. I did make a wooden jig with a 1/4" hole the depth of the existing ferrule and cut a slot into it so the cable was centered. The jig was also helpful for cutting the brass to lenght once filled. Both cables took about 1-1/2 hours. Now I could do both in 20 minutes.



I am kind of glad the wife put me on budget for my build. Now it somewhat forces me to do DIY items to save money where I can in lieu of having someone else make it and i simply bolt it on. Not really a really "custom" if you use all bolt on parts I suppose. It also gives self satification.
 

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I went to Lowe's today and found two other sources of ferrules, 1/4" O.D. copper tubing and brass inserts for 3/8" compression fittings.



Now it somewhat forces me to do DIY items to save money where I can in lieu of having someone else make it and i simply bolt it on. Not really a really "custom" if you use all bolt on parts I suppose. It also gives self satification.


Spend lots of time at Lowes & Advanced Auto finding parts for the CX project. Kids gave me

Advanced Auto & Lowes gift cards for Christmas.



This forum is a great source for info!



Agree about self satifaction after making & repairing parts.
 

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I went to Lowe's today and found two other sources of ferrules, 1/4" O.D. copper tubing and brass inserts for 3/8" compression fittings. It only requires you to drill one hole for the cable to enter. Once the cable was inserted and flared out I fluxed everything and filled the void with 95/5 solder. I did make a wooden jig with a 1/4" hole the depth of the existing ferrule and cut a slot into it so the cable was centered. The jig was also helpful for cutting the brass to lenght once filled. Both cables took about 1-1/2 hours. Now I could do both in 20 minutes.



I am kind of glad the wife put me on budget for my build. Now it somewhat forces me to do DIY items to save money where I can in lieu of having someone else make it and i simply bolt it on. Not really a really "custom" if you use all bolt on parts I suppose. It also gives self satisfaction.


You can simply buy the "balled" ends from a local bike or power equipment shop. Just cut the inner cable end off (near the very end)and pull it out. Then cut outer to length with side cutters grind the end flat and square on a bench grinder stick an awl in the end to make sure the inner cable will pass cleanly through. Re-use the chrome outer cable end heat (with your propane torch) the black outer cable just enough to soften the outer cable pull the ferrel off with your pliers. put it on the new end slip the inner cable in the outer cable Cut the inner cable to length, tin the last 1/2 inch of the inner cable then slide the balled end on and soldier it. Now grind the little nub off using the bench grinder and your done. If the old cable has been lubed your gonna have trouble getting the soldier to stick. I don't lube cables, if they're clean and have fair curves (routing) they won't need lube. I paid a local drag racer/tuner to shorten some cables and watched him do it. I was embarrassed that it was that easy.

Cheers, 50gary
 

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LRCXed,

Bill, Go look in the plumbing section. They sell 1/4" brass bolts to hold toilets down. But I know Home Depot has a brass bolt section in their hardware bins. Brass is easier to work with, but you could also use a regular steel bolt. Either way muriatic acid as a flux is necessary.



My home depot and Menards neither have the brass bolts or brass rod either. Thanks for the suggestion and I think I will try at a regular plumbing supply place. Muriatic acid is cheap and available anywhere they sell swimming pool supplies. It comes in gallons which should be a lifetime supply. Be careful with the stuff and don't breath the fumes on get it on your skin. Billrod
 
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