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Discussion Starter #161
On the diagram from the FSM (and on your diagram as well) the spark units are not powered at all. You need that connection between the B/W wires. Mike's correction on the wiring is right.
In his correction, Mike joins all the power cables so that both sparkers and both coils receive power form the Munit Ignition output. That's power to all. In the FSM and my diagram only the left coil receives power form the Ignition (Munit) or the kill switch (FSM). I think reading your answer I would interpret that nothing gets power.

I traced a separate blue line on the FSM diagram....separate from the red ones.....to show that only the left coil receives power. There are 2 separate external circuits there.

I'd like to agree with you but not sure I can. Perhaps someone would care to comment further?
I am a NOOB at this.
 

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Not up on TI systems but the coils are 12 volt. They must have power supplied to both and then I ASSume that they ground through the trigger to create the spark.

Why is the power supply not running through the killswitch? Oversight or M unit function?
 

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Discussion Starter #163 (Edited)
In the M unit, the STARTER button is just an input that either powers up or shuts the whole electrical system. There is no KILL SWITCH as such.
The power to the ignition system is delivered via the IGNITION output.

But that's not really important. Just assume that that bit of the diagram is correct for a minute because it's what happens after that that is the issue of debate.

What is being debated is that both coils (and sparkers) should be receiving power....and the FSM diagram clearly shows that not to be the case. Tracing the power from the kill switch on the FSM shows that only the left coil receives a B/W power wire from the kill switch. Then there is a junction of B/W wire that connect the other 3 elements (right coil, both sparkers).

They must be receiving power, but according to FSM, and conventions aside, not directly from the kill switch.


PS-It's almost 11pm. I think I'll sleep on it and think about it for another week.
 

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In his correction, Mike joins all the power cables so that both sparkers and both coils receive power form the Munit Ignition output. That's power to all. In the FSM and my diagram only the left coil receives power form the Ignition (Munit) or the kill switch (FSM). I think reading your answer I would interpret that nothing gets power.

I traced a separate blue line on the FSM diagram....separate from the red ones.....to show that only the left coil receives power. There are 2 separate external circuits there.

I'd like to agree with you but not sure I can. Perhaps someone would care to comment further?
I am a NOOB at this.
This picture is from the GL500 FSM:
GL500.jpg
 

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That looks correct. Each coil must receive 12 volts from the ignition, kill switch circuit. Also each spark unit must receive 12 volts to power the spark unit. The spark units also have two signal wires from the pulse generator, a ground wire and the ground wire to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Fair enough. In that case the wiring diagram from the 82 CX500 addendum I've been working off is missing that critical junction.
 

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If you leave it as is you will find out if you are correct when you go to fire it up and it only runs on the left cylinder or runs on both. Odds are it would only be running on the left as I don't see a path for power to the right coil that is indirect. Manuals do have errors every now and then, they are created by us humans after all. Great job on the bike CXapatite and I like the frame color. What color will the tank and side covers be?

David
 

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Discussion Starter #168
You're right about that David.
Colour still to be decided.
 

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If you leave it as is you will find out if you are correct when you go to fire it up and it only runs on the left cylinder or runs on both. Odds are it would only be running on the left as I don't see a path for power to the right coil that is indirect. Manuals do have errors every now and then, they are created by us humans after all. Great job on the bike CXapatite and I like the frame color. What color will the tank and side covers be?

David
David! The bike will not running at all, because the spark units are not powered by the M Unit (or ignition switch in the FSM diagram).
You are right, manuals do have errors, in this case here is an error in the wiring diagram. If you are interested, go to the page 256 in the GL500 FSM and you will see how it should be connected.
Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #170
It makes sense. So the 82CX500c, the 500E, and the 650E FSM's found in the WIKI all have the same error. Roll my eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
Tail light and bracket - number plate mounting bolts with built in led - rear indicators.

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Speedometer sensor on diy aluminium bracket mounted to fender mounts - magnet glued to stainless bolt mounted to front rotor.

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Discussion Starter #172
Rear section wiring of lights and indicators wrapped up and connected.

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Front control and indicator wires fed through bars. Odometer/tacho and warning and indicator light wires out through bottom of upper triple in 2 bundles.

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Making a bracket for my 2 gauges (Water temp and Oil press) out of some 3mm aluminium (or is it aluminum?) sheet.

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Big holes are 50mm and fit on forks between clip on brackets and upper triple. Houses 2 gauges, a fan temp over-ride switch for electric fan, and choke.

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Below it will be a n aluminium box welded on to bracket, with space and entry and exit ports for connectors and wires bundles. Choke cable goes through it.

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Assembled, but yet to be welded, sanded and painted.

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Discussion Starter #174
Spent all morning practicing TIG welding spare stainless scrap pipe. Decided things were not going to get much better, so took a punt and made some tack welds on headers /connecting fitting, and mufflers after setting everything on bike where I wanted them.

Not very pretty but TIG welding is hard enough without having to get down on the floor to weld on site.

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Purging pipe assembly with welding gas.

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Managed to weld 4 joints without burning a hole in any of them.....Success!

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Everything fitted...Bonus!

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Discussion Starter #176
Was going to have an aluminium water bottle for overflow, but changed my mind and decided to replace the original specimen bottle. Had to pull engine out....

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....and while I was there, I replaced the pulser cover gasket after a youtuber commented that the one I had placed did not have the slot for the breather vent.

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Now it does. Engine back on.
 
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Discussion Starter #177
Had some Halcyon 830 mirrors on the Triumph, which I removed when I sold it. I really want to fit them on the CX500 but...

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...they are designed to be fitted inside the handle bar via the usual bar end arrangement. I have some turn signals inside the bar end so I can't fit the mirrors in the conventional way. I decided to make a bracket to mount them on the bars from a 20mm block of aluminium.....

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A 10mm threaded hole to mount the mirror...

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...and 2 M4 threded holes with a slit to tighten around bar.

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Mounted on my spare handlebar and everything works. I like these mirrors. Just need to fill in small voids, finish sanding, and paint black to match everything else.

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Discussion Starter #178
Rear Brake Light Switch on Slipstream Cycleworks Rearsets.

This thing has been bugging me for a long time now, and today was the day.

Jarrod at Slipstream Cycleworks does very neat rearsets for the CX500, and he has an option of ordering with or without brake switch assembly. For some reason I ordered the "without" option.....more likely than not because I didn't know at the time that one belonged there!

Anyway, he will do a retrofit if you send him the components at your expense, and he will charge for the retrofit, which is a fair thing. Thing is that the postage from Australia to the US and back was way more than the cost of the addition, so there I was...stewing over how to do it myself.

This is my answer....and I'll post it in the Custom how to in case anybody else is interested.

I did it in cardboard first but it was a trial and error thing to get it just right.

Pedal removed showing the mounting plate......

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I went with the type of switch commonly found on brake and clutch hand levers. It's a "normally closed" switch and it has one mounting hole (4mm), a right angle cut-out to engage with mounting bracket, and small round lug sticking out to the mounting side to also engage with mounting bracket and provide stability to the switch housing.

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With the help of some cardboard, and some trial fitting, I made a mounting bracket from a piece of 3mm aluminium, and the right angle locking piece is 5mm aluminium welded on.

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There are 3 holes (below).
The bottom one is a blind 4mm hole to allow the lug to sit in.
The middle one is a 3mm countersunk hole to allow fixing bracket to rearset mounting plate with a countersunk 3mm screw leaving a flush surface for the switch housing.
The top one is 4mm hole that lines up with the mounting hole in the switch housing.

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Again, through trial fitting, 2 tapped holes on the rearset mounting plate....3mm on left for the aluminium bracket, and 4mm on right for the switch mount (and through bracket also).

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Pedal mounted as well as the aluminium bracket via the 3mm countersunk screw. Note also the outside shape of aluminium bracket wraps around mounting plate components for anti-rotation effect ( file a bit...try a bit).

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The pedal has a large connecting that you can't see, under the switch, which also acts as a stop for the pedal travel. At rest position, that connector is pressing on the switch button on the bottom of the switch, and breaking the circuit. The 4mm Allen head screw I used in the photo below is too big and interferes with the full travel of the pedal. I will need to replace it with a flatter head screw and it should clear nicely. I did test it and it works.

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I could have welded the aluminium bracket onto the mounting plate, but this way, if it doesn't work, I can easily remove it and go back to the drawing board.
Now I only hope 2 things...that I DID get a "NC" switch, and that it's waterproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #179
FIRST START

Still have to shorten throttle, clutch and choke cables, but I filled up all the fluids, oil in the cylinders, checked for spark on both sides, hooked up a temporary fuel supply, and got ready for a first start.
I was under pressure....the Missus wanted to witness it, and I prepared her for the worst....a non starter.

Well....it blew me away.

Comments welcome - I still haven't been able to wipe the grin off my face :):):D

 
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