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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was going to do an oil change, went to loosen the cam belt auto adjuster bolt but it was snapped. Maybe 1 thread into the bolt is where it snapped, so almost the whole bolt is still inside. Can I get at it without replacing all my seals or is this going to cost 200 more dollars?
 

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Are you saying that the cam chain adjuster bolt broke just inside the rear cover? Can you see part of it there? It may have snapped at the O ring line. If that is the case, I'm afraid you are going to have to drop the engine and pull the rear cover.



I may not cost $200, but probably $100 or so for gaskets, seals, O rings, etc.



Edit: I just saw that you have the 650 with a auto adjuster. I can't imagine which bolt has snapped. The auto tensioner is completely enclosed inside the rear cover.
 

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Are you sure you know what you're talking about. The 650 has an auto tensioner but unless you have your rear cover off that's not going to be seen.



Where is the actual bolt?
 

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I think you need to take a picture of it for us. You might be tightening some random bolt.



This is a 650 engine and you can see on the right side is the auto adjuster. That shouldn't have any bolts that would have access to adjust with the rear cover on.



edit... Actually the engine is a 500 but has the auto tensioner. Bandit could explain more.











How did you screw up the rocker?
 

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That's a water pump bolt. As long as it isn't leaking don't touch it. Your bike doesn't have any adjustment.





I wonder if the rockers cross between the 500 because I have a set on hand.
 

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Checked a different year and gl500 and it's a no go.



I'm thinking you should contact Peter Law or possibly David from Wisconsin.
 

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You most likely will need a new head gasket as well and possible an oil orifice O-ring and of course when you disturb things like the coolant transfer pipes some o-rings may need replacing.



If you have not done a head gasket on these bikes this will help,





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Bsc2zyihU&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL



You should remove the 10mm drain bolt from the front of the cylinder to get all the coolant so it does not bleed into the cylinders and head bolts holes which need to be spotless prior to head re-fit.
 

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That's a tough question to answer.



You may be able to remove two of the head bolts on the side that is broken and slide the pin out holding the rocker. The whole assembly has 4 bolts and two dowel pins in it. I know from last weeks adventure that my dowel pins were stuck and I needed a dead blow to get the whole assembly off. If you have to go that far a new gasket is probably in order. But if you just remove 2 bolts and slide the pin out if it's possible then you might not need a new gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I guess in the end it doesn't matter, I don't think I'll be running this bike until I can find that missing chunk of rocker. Which means taking the head off and cleaning it out for all those flakes.



The worst part is that it blew a minute after I finished my new jetting and pods. Ran it for maybe 2 seconds before a big pop and I shut it down right away.



So what all should I get for this (might as well do both sides, valves are due to get cleaned now I guess)?

2 Head Gaskets

2 O rings for heads (what size are these?)



What else?
 

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