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Discussion Starter #1
I over torqued my original and broke on of the pegs off the pressure plate. I typically learn from my first mistake(s). I took extra precaution installing my clutch springs in sequence this go around. I installed in sequence to 6 lbs but it still broke one of the legs off my replacements. Tips/tricks?

thanks guys
 

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Did you use a click stop Tq.Wrench

Did you do a criss-cross pattern evenly incrementally ?

Or did you tighten 1 to torque then another ?
 

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Were you only tightening each bolt a couple turns at a time? And you have a good low-range torque wrench? It may be that your replacement already had a stressed/compromised post.
 

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Some clutch springs fit differently on the opposite ends of the spring. I don't know why some springs are odd like that. This is a weird deal when it catches you. When they do break, you aren't even close to having them run down to proper position.

If the end wind of a spring starts to bind onto the taper of the post, it snaps the post out of the backing plate. I have broken a few from not checking them on the backing plate before I put it all together. I have run into some backing plates that were repaired with a button head bolt and washer on the back side of the pressure plate. These were found in engines from ride-able used bikes that I bought to scrap out (except the parts I needed for the project). I guess this has happened more often than we think. Sometimes I find serious nicks on the post taper, where springs had bit into the soft aluminum but not quite broken it.

Check the springs, both ends, for fit onto the posts, and make sure you install the "loose" end inward. You CANNOT tell it is going to jam, after you have already put the pressure plate behind the disks. Check for best fit with the plate in your hand, FIRST. Like I said....this is a weird deal when it happens, and I am sure I haven't got the whole answer figured out.

If you run the Barnett clutch and spring package, you never have this problem even though the springs are serious stiff compared to stock (even stiffer than the shortened GL650 springs I sometimes use in 500 engines.)
 

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That repair is the same as I did when I snapped a post in Eccles' original engine. I used slightly longer bolts because I had them on hand and I smeared them with epoxy before screwing them in to make sure they wouldn't loosen. Don't forget to use 4 screws to maintain balance (not to mention adding extra strength for next time).

FWIW, I always felt that I had something not quite lined up right so that the pressure broke the post before the bolt was seated but Jim's theory about the springs makes sense too...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys!
 
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