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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my pads at lunch and brought my caliper from home to assemble while i was eating. i got it all together but my questions are many at this time. the pads attach via the pins, are those supposed to be regularly lubed? mine are causing the pad to stick when i retract them apart with my fingers. also, does anything attach the piston side brake pad to the pistons? i'm assuming it clamps tight with the pressure of the pistons but when it retracts what pulls the pad away from the rotor? same question for the inside pad. when the caliper clamps down i can see how both sides grab but i am failing to see how they release. are there springs that i am lacking that go on the pins to push the pads apart? i see there is an anti rattle spring that sits in behind the pins but thats not keeping the pads taught without it being underpressure. thanks
 

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Hey there lowlife




Les see if i can fubar this for you.... I mean explain




the pad on the inside (wheel side) is stationary. The Pistons on the caliper side push that side and the caliper mounting bolts creating a push pull on the caliper itself to bring the pads against the rotor. When you pull the brake lever the hydro fluid is compressed in the system creating pressure to push the pads and caliper so that both are making friction on the rotor ( brakes) Letting go of the lever will equalize the presussure when the pistons retract as they are sucked back in by the negative pressure... allowing the rotor to spin freely... this allows the piston(s) to retract and the calper to re-center itself. It is to be expected that you will hear the pads scraping slightly sometimes when pushing the bike although you should feel basically no resistance at the wheel. ( it's a tight fit, and always should be)



There should be a clip spring under the pads and pins, this has ears to keep the inside pad from floating as it is basically stationary and not moving. mine was smashed allowing that side to rub...



Three things to be aware of, or look out for.... collapsed, expanded, or deteriorated rubber brake lines that will absorb or diminish the fluid pressure and possibly stick the brakes or give you a real soft handle. The fluid return orifice in the MC, which if clogged will keep the brakes from releasing as the fluid cannot return to the resevior. If The MC piston which compresses the fluid in the syst is failing you will get soft brakes... Also the seals on the caliper which can deteriorate and cause the piston(s) to either stick open or closed.



I hope this helps and I'm sure someone will give a better explanation... for some reason brakes baffle me
, while an eletrics schematic is a simple map...




taker easy... J
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that was very helpful. thanks i didn't have the stationary pad seated properly. i got it on now i just have to attach the line and bleed. then cross my fingers
 

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Clean the heck out of the caliper pins and the inside of where they go with Q-tips and a decent solvent then relube with a good grease designed for this, the new stuff is usully just silicone grease and you can get a pouch at the local auto parts place for 0.99.



Not only allows them to work properly but also prevents water from getting in there and causing corrosion.



I've seen so many brake jobs on cars go wrong from not doing this it isn't funny.



You have that front brake system doing about 90% of the work, don't chance even if you've got to drop the caliper again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I pulled them out and rubbed them down with solevent and a scotchbrite pad just to get all the crud off them. the pads went in great. i bled the system last night but the bleeder screw isn't tightening. i got a feeling the guy who wouldn't let me borrow his 8mm socket and tightened it down for me may have cross thread it. the pack came with 2 bleeders so i'll try the other one today. i hope thats all it is because after i got the pins in the right place the system fit together perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
does anyone have handy the size of the bleeder screw on a front brake caliper for a 1981 gl500 non interstate? i started looking and i think i got the wrong size. i got a 7mmx 1 and i think it is supposed to be a 8mm x 1.25.
 

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No, but still a stocking part at the dealers, 5862-001
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, but still a stocking part at the dealers, 5862-001


the half retarded dealer by my house says they don't stock them. i've been relying on autozone or the custom bike shop. they came through with all the brake parts so far but i didn't get the right size bleeder screw when i was there. my fault
 

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Understood, my local dealer has to be taught and told on occasion. That part is probably still in use but it might take a bit of headbanging to convince them to look in their system. If you walk in with an actual part # it tends to throw them off guard.



Can't wait until mine's all done, I plan on visting them and the other bike dealers on a regular basis out of spite.
 

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I'm not sure what caliper you have so I can't guarantee... but I'm pretty sure it's 43352-568-003



Many Honda MC parts are a three part code, ending in 003. I do not recall ever seeing a two part code from honda...



If you can, bring the old one and match it up. Many Honda models from this era use the same nipples.





yeah, I just wanted to post something with "nipples" in it, like Stich
 

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And Speaking of "Stich"... Check out this oldie but goodie thread and his rather informative post
 

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Well, I thought I might find nipples here... upon closer inspection, these models do not hav them
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I cheaped out and got the "Help" assortment pack from vatozone. i'm pretty sure i know which one it is but there has been too many times i have gone back and forth to the store to get the right size. i can't take my caliper in because its full of fluid now. this should work just fine. i also got a new choke cable becase the piece of wire i am using doesnt stay in place when i release it. i have to hold it for the whole warm up cycle which SUCKS. i'll put them on tomorrow morning and then one more test start to make sure no leaks etc.
 

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Make darn sure the thread pitch matches, as you get into smaller bolts some SAE and Metric sizes are almost identical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Make darn sure the thread pitch matches, as you get into smaller bolts some SAE and Metric sizes are almost identical.


they didn't. threaded in pretty well. i went to bleed the caliper and the screw came out. took the threads with it. i'll get a tap tomorrow and tap the hole for a larger bleeder screw and try again.



i also just had an amusing run in with the choke cable i got. i had to trim it to fit and when i did i left the inner cable excess long on purpose so i could get it where i wanted and trim the rest off. in my fitment the cable touched the + battery cable and lit up like the forth. i pulled it off with a pair of pliers but not before the rod melted off and lit my battery tie down strap on fire. put it out quickly but i have no idea how much damage has been done. i'll try and start it tomorrow and make sure i didn't short the battery or melt through any errant wires. all that because i was lazy and didn't feel like pulling the carb off to put the cable on. some days i feel like my own worst enemy
 

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I plead guilty as well in other situations. Take the (-) cable and tape it off or in the case of a bike just pull it and set it aside.



I doubt you did any damage but I'd get a charge back on the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
brakes are done... 'ish. i tapped the hole and plugged it up and the brakes work suprisingly well. i also ran a choke cable so i could step away from the bike while it was starting. when i start it now it back fires really badly. i spent the last 2 hours trying to tune it and it turns out... i don't know what the hell i am doing. i went as far as pulling the right side plug wire and tuning the left side on its own. that seemed to work okay but i cannot do the same to the right side. i can't get it to run. what am i doing wrong... better question what is the right way to it.





also another question... it is hard as hell to get the trans in and out of neutral. is there supposed to be fluid in the transmission and how do i check its level?
 

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Backfire is often a sign of a vacuum leak or even an exhast that isn't sealed. Carb boots, ACV rubbers in the carbs, copper crush rings on the headers etc. When if comes to the intake a spray of carb cleaner will often eliminate the obvious. Let it idle, spray things down selectively and if the rpm changes look into it. Exhaust leaks just take a good ear.



Tranny shares the same oil with the engine, most people with 1 - 0 - 2 problems may find their shifter isn't adjusted correctly or is upside down. Stupid thing will mount both ways but only work correctly if on there properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
the odd thing is that all of these problems happened suddenly. the exhaust is fully welded together and the header pipes are tight. the carb boot on the right side has a crack that doesnt go all the way through and i've been checking it. it wasnt sealed on the carb which i corrected but before it backfired. i didn't charge the battery until last night into this morning. after about 4 hours on the charger i tried to start it just for fun and it cranked and fired but i shut it down before it fully fired up sinced it was inside the garage and it was late. there are 3 tuning points that i can see. the 2 air fuel needles and the idle set screw. aside from pulling the carbs off and changing the jets (again) is there any other adjustments that i can get this set up with?
 
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