Honda CX 500 Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,556 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK guys.

This is gonna sound really familiar.


I am out riding and the bike runs sweet. Good throttle roll on, perfectly happy seeming, just grand.

The next day it runs fine through the lower RPM and as long as I am accelerating through the gears seems OK but once I start cruising and it comes up to temp well then anything over ~4500 or 5000 rpm and there is hesitation, surging, and bogging down. Generally only happy at lower RPM. If I open the throttle all the way it will eventually find its way up to speed but it takes forever!



OK I figure carbs need more attention. I rode the next day anyway and runs great! Everything is good. The next few times I ride it is a crap shoot. Today I noticed that if I let it get good and hot before turning on the E-Fan it ran much better (good and hot being 2/3 of the way up the scale or so). Also it has stalled twice now when coming down off a higher RPM and pulling in the clutch.



Today I tested the CDI resistances and they were all about 20 -30 Ohms high except 8-9 which was spot on.

This was my reference:

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=521



Then I saw here :

http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/8649-feels-like-i-have-a-rev-limiter/

That Rick was saying to test the CDI output

"Disconnect the coils, remove the spark plugs from the cylinders, set multimeter to 200VDC, connect the multimeter "+" Lead to the CDI output, probe the multimeter lead to ground terminal on the battery. Ignition on, roll the bike over/hit the start button noting the highest voltages on the meter. These values will fluctuate, so just watch for the highest value.

"



Mine spiked up to about 200Vdc then quickly drifted down to ~50 Vdc each. I am not sure if my meter is averaging or not. To be honest I am used to having a Scope for these kinds of test. If it is averaging that # is probably OK if it is not averaging then they are ugly.



So the bottom line is I no longer think it is Carbs because they would misbehave more consistently. Do you agree that carbs would be more consistent?

Do you think I should investigate a CDI or an Ignitec?

I have not tested the Stator mostly because I have had crap luck finding the values I am looking for.

I just have not looked long enough yet.



***********Edit

Before this started I have:

New Coils and plugs. Pulled plugs and found a nice tan color.

I know one boot is cracked and I tapped it heavily. I have new plug boots on order.

No problems with the charging circuit or starting.

The left carb weeps some fuel but I am not sure why, yet.

I have been through the carbs three times or so and followed THE HOLY BOOK.

I used simple green and an ultra sonic cleaner. Soaked them overnight before after and during the ultrasonic treatment.

I might have missed something, I am barely human - just ask my ex-wife.



Just so y'all know what I have tried so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,999 Posts
First,,the resistance tests you have been doing ARE the stator resistance tests. The plug you are testing is on the wires that come off the stator and out of the back of the engine.



I have never done the voltage test on the CDI but I think the pulses you get should be constant at 140+,,I am not sure of this though.



I also think that you are probably correct that a carb problem would likely be more consistent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
GET THE Ignitec!!! I had the same exact issue an it solved all the issues I had. Bike runs better than it ever has. The front end jumped off the ground on me yesterday an scared the crap out of me lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Just going to throw in a quick suggestion. Had a problem with my bike recently when I would hit around 6-7 thousand rpm bike would start to chug and sputter, do the whole lose power thing. First thought was it was not getting enough fuel/carb issue. Got home checked under my seat and found the wire running from the right side coil to the cdi connects midway with a male female connector and it was loose. I assume that when it was at a certain rpm the vibration starting making a poor connection. Anyway re-crimped and taped and it ran fine again from that point. Just throwing it out there you never know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,556 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just going to throw in a quick suggestion. Had a problem with my bike recently when I would hit around 6-7 thousand rpm bike would start to chug and sputter, do the whole lose power thing. First thought was it was not getting enough fuel/carb issue. Got home checked under my seat and found the wire running from the right side coil to the cdi connects midway with a male female connector and it was loose. I assume that when it was at a certain rpm the vibration starting making a poor connection. Anyway re-crimped and taped and it ran fine again from that point. Just throwing it out there you never know.


Double checked the coil connections and they are good. I did not pack them with Noalox but I think I will.

I almost said conductive grease but don't want to start that again!




I am thinking the ingitech might be in my near future.

I just HATE to spend another $165 on this bike. I could have bought a good running bike for much less than I already have in it. With the ingitech I will be mightily close to $2000 in this thing.

I guess I have the comfort of knowing EVERY system on it has been gone though - except the forks.

I am still intimidated by the idea of tearing into them.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top