Just a reminder - paint won't stick to chrome unless you prep it correctly, mild acid dip will do but it has to be a strong one. Muriatic may work but I don't touch my chrome parts, add a little Nitric to it and that will eat up chrome with a simple touch of a paintbrush but unless you're well trained in working with acids I'd just try the Muriatic first. Nitric almost takes FBI clearance to buy nowadays for reasons I won't mention here but a local chemical supply house probably won't give you a hassle if you tell them what you're using it for.
You also can't just shoot the engine, etc as most have some of the nastiest (yet durable) clear coat on them so be prepared to strip everything down to bare metal.
Disclaimer: When dealing with acids the responsibility is yours and yours alone. Do your research as one tiny mistake can end up being a disaster. In addition to Nitric and Sulfamic I also keep Muriatic, Phosphoric and the least offensive of the bunch Citric around.
http://www.dudadiesel.com is an excellent supplier for some things but you can often find it locally cheaper since shipping enters into things. You can get common Muriatic at most any hardware or pool supply store.
They all have their uses, what I like about Citric is no precautions really apply because it's relatively mild - enough so that you can eat the stuff and already have all your life in small volumes as its what puts the tang into almost every food product. What I like about Phosphoric is that it it not only cleans off red rust but also converts what's left into the other black oxide form of iron/steel, it's the active ingredient in "Naval Jelly" and some other of the rust converters. The theoretical "Rust Converter" paints you buy off the shelf don't do this so if you've got a tiny rusty spot on something you can paint a bit of this on then wash it off with a nylon brush a bit later and you'll have clean steel.
If you're a pro painter I know you'll do a good job, if not Duplicolor has a great lineup of paint in rattle cans that is second to none given proper drying time. 2K Urethanes are obviously the best but the most expensive and hardest to properly apply.
