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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i was wondering if anyone has seen or has pics of a gl500 all black. i dont mean alot of black i mean everything that can be black is black. im wanting to do a complete blackout on my bike. its not that i dont like chrome, but any polishing and ill scream. im talking no chrome, or at least the smallest amount possible on my bike. question is has anyone seen or done this and does it look really bad? im gonna do it anyway but would like to see a finished product.
 

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"Chrome dont get you home" and all that

I'm sure I saw a pic of an all black 'rat' type GL somewhere

and will have a hunt about.

beauty is in the eye of the beholder so some may find it ugly

whatever.....



heres a striking example of all black

form the bike Exif sites top 20

 

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Haven't seen a GL blacked out but we have a CX in the shop with the everything but the upper fork tubes, tank,fenders and side covers sprayed with that black wrinkle coat paint. Not sure I like the look but its not my bike so its fine with me.
 

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Don't forget to pick up lots of life insurance too.



Some bikes do look nice in all black, can't argue that. But keeping a black finish clean and decent looking is actually more work than keeping a lighter color and shiny metal looking good. Dirt, grime, water spots ect. are magnified and much more visible on black.



This is the only GL500 I'd want in all black:




 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that bmw is the exact look om going for with the wrapped pipes and everything. that bike to me looks awesome. the only thing i dont care for are the tires. but the rest of the bike is totally kick ass.
 

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Just a reminder - paint won't stick to chrome unless you prep it correctly, mild acid dip will do but it has to be a strong one. Muriatic may work but I don't touch my chrome parts, add a little Nitric to it and that will eat up chrome with a simple touch of a paintbrush but unless you're well trained in working with acids I'd just try the Muriatic first. Nitric almost takes FBI clearance to buy nowadays for reasons I won't mention here but a local chemical supply house probably won't give you a hassle if you tell them what you're using it for.



You also can't just shoot the engine, etc as most have some of the nastiest (yet durable) clear coat on them so be prepared to strip everything down to bare metal.



Disclaimer: When dealing with acids the responsibility is yours and yours alone. Do your research as one tiny mistake can end up being a disaster. In addition to Nitric and Sulfamic I also keep Muriatic, Phosphoric and the least offensive of the bunch Citric around. http://www.dudadiesel.com is an excellent supplier for some things but you can often find it locally cheaper since shipping enters into things. You can get common Muriatic at most any hardware or pool supply store.



They all have their uses, what I like about Citric is no precautions really apply because it's relatively mild - enough so that you can eat the stuff and already have all your life in small volumes as its what puts the tang into almost every food product. What I like about Phosphoric is that it it not only cleans off red rust but also converts what's left into the other black oxide form of iron/steel, it's the active ingredient in "Naval Jelly" and some other of the rust converters. The theoretical "Rust Converter" paints you buy off the shelf don't do this so if you've got a tiny rusty spot on something you can paint a bit of this on then wash it off with a nylon brush a bit later and you'll have clean steel.



If you're a pro painter I know you'll do a good job, if not Duplicolor has a great lineup of paint in rattle cans that is second to none given proper drying time. 2K Urethanes are obviously the best but the most expensive and hardest to properly apply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
for the paint stripping i got some stuff from home depot, that has the methylethly chloride. it seems to take the paint off with out much issue. although i have found that the paint stripper will melt cheap gloves from harbor freight to your hand. it works well and i am pretty sure it strips paint to bare metal. i really need to know if they have a high temp primer to lay the base coat. i have the ability to use a spray gun, but i hate the clean up and the paint seems so much more expensive. rattle cans are okay for me. when i get to stripping the frame i may set up the spray gun.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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i really need to know if they have a high temp primer to lay the base coat.
Duplicolor has an Adhesion Promoter that may do well under the high-temp paint. I can't find their high-temp paint to check the spec, though.



R
 

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