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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ont he way to work today, the bike choked and died like it was out of gas. Usually, i can tell when to switch on the reserve from the sensitivity of the throttle, but this time it just choked out and died around 60mph. I discovered then that i had left it on reserve last time i filled up, but im sure thats not a biggie. Got a ride, bought a can of gas, and filled her up. Started riding, and i could only get about half-throttle, until it died about half a mile away. Crap!



Now when I try to start it, it tried VERY slowly to turn over, like the battery is dying, but the lights are all still bright. Right before the last time it died, i kept hearing a loud clanking coming from the engine. The previous owner insisted that I shouldnt need to chance the oil yet, and said the oil light ive been seeing is due to the bike leaning.





Could my bike shutting off and not starting be an oil issue? The carbs were rebuilt about a year ago when I bought it. All new fuel lines and a clean tank.



This bike is my main form of transportation, and I work every day, so the sooner I can get this fixed, the better. (The bike is sitting on the side of the highway right now about 2 miles away form my office, where I'm at now)



Thanks in advance!
 

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Uh-oh.





When specifically were you seeing the oil light? It should be on when the engine is off, but shut off within a second of starting, and stay off.
 

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If you don't have an in-line fuel filter then some crud may have got through and into the carbs from the bottom of the tank.



You really need to take them off and clean them properly but for now you may get away with releasing the drain screws on the sides with the petcock off.Then screw them back in and shoot some carb/brake cleaner into the carb fuel feed.Then crank the bike for a few seconds with the kill switch on to get some normal fuel through then try and fire her up.You might get lucky.



Also if possible drain the tank and take the petcock off as it may have got clogged as well.



However I would also check the oil for metal particles as something sounds fishy hear.





HTH.
 

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Yeah, If you've been running with an oil light on for the past year, I'd suggest you are now on the hunt for a replacement engine.
Which, pretty thankfully is an easy job. If it comes to it, we'll be here to guide you through the whole process.





-Brendan
 

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To clarify things, are you saying you never checked the oil level since you got it?



To check mechanical vs electrical (a bad CDI will cause the exact same symptoms), turn the kill switch to off, and try cranking the engine over and see what happens. If it cranks over relatively smoothly with the kill switch off, you've got a bad CDI or other electrical issues. If it still clunks and binds with the kill switch off, best case scenario is bad CDI took out your starter clutch (happened to me) or more likely you've screwed the pooch by ignoring the flashing RED light, and are the proud owner of a boat anchor.



News isn't all bad though, as mentioned above, the CX engine just about falls out of the bike for replacement when compared to even a snow blower, and replacement engines/parts bikes are relatively cheap and plentiful.
 

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Not to hyjack PhayzRs post hopefully, but how does a bad CDI box destroy the starterchutch?



I'm not doubting that scenario at all; I'm just trying to understand the sequience of events involved.



Something to do with the motor "kicking " back possibly?





Good to see you back posting Cobram.
 

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I remember him posting in another thread that the CDI going bad kicked off some errant sparks during cranking and kicked back, breaking the starter clutch.
 

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I remember him posting in another thread that the CDI going bad kicked off some errant sparks during cranking and kicked back, breaking the starter clutch.




Ah, that's what I was thinking; a mis-timed spark and an ugly,noisy, counter-rotation.



Wouldn't take but once or twice I would think....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well guys, Thanks for your help so far. Im about to be picked up from the office in a truck to take the bike home, and my buddy is gonna take a quick look at it. Ill try all of your suggestions before tossing the engine. Hopefully it wont come to that though.



Now as a newbie to motorcycle maintnence and repair, would it be possible for me and my buddy (an innate tinkerer) to swap out engines? And if so, how much am I looking at here for a new one?
 

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Yes it would be possible to swap out engines easily but the cost question is all location specific.



Where are you located? Also put it in your profile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm in Austin, TX.

I didnt get a chance to mess with anything too much last night. Turns out its not seized. Oil was completely bone dry, so I put just a quart in. I got it to run for about 20-30 seconds before it just stalled out and died. It didnt sputter and die out, just cut off like i cut the switch. While it was running, I kept hearing banging from the cylinders, which was very unnerving. Any more input, guys?
 

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I'm in Austin, TX.

I didnt get a chance to mess with anything too much last night. Turns out its not seized. Oil was completely bone dry, so I put just a quart in. I got it to run for about 20-30 seconds before it just stalled out and died. It didnt sputter and die out, just cut off like i cut the switch. While it was running, I kept hearing banging from the cylinders, which was very unnerving. Any more input, guys?


Yikes again. Banging from the cyl. is not good.
 

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sounds like rod bearings but we couldnt tell you unless you can put up a sound clip of it



i also agree its time to start looking for a new engine



and also what kind of bike is it? gl500 or what?

this is the kind of stuff we need to know there might be some one around you that could be willing to help hell beer does wonders to a biker at times its better than money
 

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Hell, I have a spare engine that I would have given you if you had been close.



I'm sure many people feel the same way, and you can be sure that you'll get a cheap engine somewhere in your area. If the spare engine doesn't need work, figure about 4 hours to pull yours, and replace it working slowly.
 
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