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I just acquired an '82 with 19k miles on her in pristine condition. I have been searching this forum in every manner that I know how and have not found any information about engine oil recommendations. I have seen suggestions of running Rotella 15w40 and had an mechanic tell me to run DELO. I also a post from 2010 about Mobil 1 MX4t. Any insight and recommendations would be much appreciated as I want to change the oil before I start riding her.
 

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Welcome and thanks for opening with the most controversial question any forum ever gets! LOL! You will see as many different answers shortly as ants on a banana, but here is mine.
I used the Rotella for most of my CX500T life. No issues with it. Our gearboxes are rubbish. Sorry if I hurt anyone's feelings, but the whole CX family suck for shift effort and gears staying selected under load. The proverbial "KAAALUNKKKK!" when holding in the clutch and shifting into 1st is hilarious.- and it only gets worse from there. Having said that, I switched to "Mobil 1 98JA11 10W-40 Racing 4T Motorcycle Oil for Sport Bikes" after restoring my bike that sat for 20ish years. It IS designed to work with wet clutches and I have had no issues. I have had fewer shifting misses and gears popping out under load than my old oil, of that I am positive. Being an old automotive engineer, I have seen enough data on synthetic oils to be a believer. Use a good 10w40 premium oil for motorcycles and Mr Honda will approve. One final note- when you change that oil filter, be sure it looks like the pic attached - the (number 5) washer shown typically is missing from a previous oil change- or you just threw it away yourself. Ask me how I know...

201914

Amazon.com: Mobil 1 98JA11 10W-40 Racing 4T Motorcycle Oil for Sport Bikes - 1 Quart (Pack of 6): Automotive
 

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When you're looking to kill some time, check this blog out.
Take it for what he states, a comparison of load capable between oils.
Much of what he writes regarding muscle cars makes sense.
I think there is value in his comparison. I was using a certain oil in my GTO that was popular for "popular" for producing more horsepower, but rated low on his testing. switched to one of his top rated oil, and I swear the valve train is much quieter. Verified oil pressure is correct.
The blog has his opinion on wet clutch specific oil. Use your own judgement.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
When you're looking to kill some time, check this blog out.
Take it for what he states, a comparison of load capable between oils.
Much of what he writes regarding muscle cars makes sense.
I think there is value in his comparison. I was using a certain oil in my GTO that was popular for "popular" for producing more horsepower, but rated low on his testing. switched to one of his top rated oil, and I swear the valve train is much quieter. Verified oil pressure is correct.
The blog has his opinion on wet clutch specific oil. Use your own judgement.
Wow that is quite the blog. I think I actually saw part of it on an Isuzu trooper forum back when I owned 3 of them and was trying to squeak the most out of them. So what oil are you using in your bike?
 

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I am using Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W30 in just about all of my vehicles, including the CXs.
Available at Walmart, under $20 for five quarts.
No clutch slip so far in the CX500 or 650T.
 
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The blog has his opinion on wet clutch specific oil. Use your own judgement.
There's no opinion in that blog, only FACTS!
Wow, that guy's arrogant. It's hard to find the useful information is his stream of self-adulation. He continually cites the unchallengeable "SCIENCE OF PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY" without ever questioning his conclusions.
It isn't science if you already know all the answers.

Randall
 

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There's no opinion in that blog, only FACTS!
Wow, that guy's arrogant. It's hard to find the useful information is his stream of self-adulation. He continually cites the unchallengeable "SCIENCE OF PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY" without ever questioning his conclusions.
It isn't science if you already know all the answers.

Randall
yep-many a "fact" has been manipulated/misquoted in these blogs.
Only real test would be run multiple examples of the same engines under the same load then tear down and inspect-even then would the oil that's ideal for the engine tested be the best for the CX500/turbo?-maybe not different cam actuation, bearings, clearances etc.
 

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When you're looking to kill some time, check this blog out.
Take it for what he states, a comparison of load capable between oils.
Much of what he writes regarding muscle cars makes sense.
I think there is value in his comparison. I was using a certain oil in my GTO that was popular for "popular" for producing more horsepower, but rated low on his testing. switched to one of his top rated oil, and I swear the valve train is much quieter. Verified oil pressure is correct.
The blog has his opinion on wet clutch specific oil. Use your own judgement.
Great article. Everyone who uses Rotella diesel crap needs to read his review #76 which explains why not to use diesel oil in a high performance gasoline engine. I was happy to see that Joe Gibbs Driven (test 42) had a great review.
 

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Let me help you one more time - Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. You will be very happy with the wear results, bearing protection, and shifting of the old, outdated transmission.

PK
 

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Let me help you one more time - Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. You will be very happy with the wear results, bearing protection, and shifting of the old, outdated transmission.

PK
I used the Mobil 1 for many years with zero problems. I went with the Driven later because I was using their break in oil and had a good relation with their engineer who was advising me on oil for my race bike.
 

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Let me help you one more time - Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. You will be very happy with the wear results, bearing protection, and shifting of the old, outdated transmission.

PK
experience as per here might b more value than any blog/oil thread.
As I posted earlier all engines are different-Mobil 1's never had a bad rap as far as I can recall
 

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For reference to JASO-MA comments- Thanks Sidecar Bob- I'm smarter about this now :)

"Car oils have been used up to 1998 as the base for most motorcycle oils. But as the technology in cars evolved, the oils were modified to meet those modern needs. As a result, additives were added and friction modifiers were blended with the oil. Although these modifications were positive for use in cars, they were damaging to motorcycles. This was especially the case with motorcycle gearboxes and clutches. Unlike with cars, motorcycles don’t use a separate oil for the gearbox, causing the clutches to slip due to the friction modifiers. It also could attribute to gearbox pitting (localized corrosion and the formation of micro-cracks). Oil in motorcycles and scooters is required to run under more intense conditions than in cars because it has to endure hotter temperatures as well as higher engine speed and a greater power density. These circumstances subject the oil to significant operating stress.


In 1998 JASO T903 was introduced as the globally recognized standard for 4-stroke motorcycle oils. It defines the required performance levels for satisfactory lubrication of the different motorcycle designs. "

 

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I have a hard time believing someone that discusses oil for use with wet clutches and doesn't explain what JASO-MA is and why you need to avoid oils not so rated...
lol-good point we seem to have forgotten to mention that -the Mobil 1 4T meets those specs
 

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There's no opinion in that blog, only FACTS!
Wow, that guy's arrogant. It's hard to find the useful information is his stream of self-adulation. He continually cites the unchallengeable "SCIENCE OF PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY" without ever questioning his conclusions.
It isn't science if you already know all the answers.

Randall
 

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Great article. Everyone who uses Rotella diesel crap needs to read his
Great article on oil for your high performance car.
But apples and oranges for a wet clutch motorcycle.
 

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Well.....color me skeptical on the "clutch slip" issue and oil.

I've been using "car oil", specifically synthetic, in my CXC since 2011. Not one time did I have a clutch slip in my daily riding.

Now, the "clutch slip" could be an issue for a high powered bike or a race bike. I just don't believe the "clutch slip" is a significant issue on a 50 hp bike used in daily riding.

Well, I can't say I've never had clutch slip. But after investigation, the clutch plates were worn out. Not bad for a bike with over 46K miles. I replaced the clutch pack and all is normal again.
 
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