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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have been looking everywhere to see how to re-locate my battery underneath my motor like I seen on multiple bikes. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info, I was looking for a smaller battery. What would you attach it to? Do you know of an builds that show a good way?
 

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Hi jbchase. I just built an under the bike box today that mounts where the H box was bolted. I just painted it, so when it is dry tomorrow I will take some pictures to see if it is what you are thinking of. I used the Shorai sealed battery and built the box to house the battery and the solenoid.
 

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Here are a few pictures of what I built. Started by making a template from poster board. Test fit the template to make sure the battery and solenoid fit inside. I cut the 14gauge steel to match the template. I drilled holes along the bottom where the bends will be on the sides and back. I did not drill the front as I do not want road moisture kicking up into the battery box. The holes look cool along the edges plus it will allow any rain to drain out.

image.jpg

From there I used a break (sheet metal bender) to bend 2 opposing sides. Then bent one other side part way with the bender and then bent the rest of the way using a big vise. For the side that is by the extension tabs I had to use the vise only. The extensions you see we're then drilled to mount to the back of the old H-box mounts and rounded smooth. Once I had that completed I added a divider inside to hold the battery in place, and a mount for the starter solenoid. I also added the front mount with 1/8" x 1" steel. Drilled for the front mount, smoothed it out and welded to the front of the box. Also built a cover. Will take more pictures tomorrow when paint is dry.

image.jpg
image.jpg
 

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Thanks guys, that really helps! kdjet12 I wanna see pictures after you mount it if you don't mind. That will be the way I go as well. What gauge of steel did you use?
 

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I do like that ballistic battery under the seat as well KGG. That seems easy enough, now did you put the rest of the wiring under the seat as well?
 

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I like the simplicity as I'm also trying to design a simple looking jacket for my AGM, but kdjet, wouldn't it be a good idea to at least bore some holes on the bottom of the box in the case of water build up due to rain, bike wash or a prolonged and unexpected ride during downpour water won't build up in the base of your battery box regardless if it's sealed? Just my 2 cents and will probably do that to mine for the piece of mind.

*EDIT-or maybe you plan to cover over the top?
 

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Hi Chocolatelvis, you may not have noticed in the previous post that "I drilled holes along the bottom where the bends will be on the sides and back. I did not drill the front as I do not want road moisture kicking up into the battery box.". Also, yes I will be putting a cover on it, but the top will be vented as I do not want to risk any heat buildup.

Jbchase, I used 14gauge steel. You could use 16 or even 18, but I don't trust my limited welding skills on light sheet metal. Will get more pictures today.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info. What kind of battery are you going to use? Regular size?
 

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Ok, great! It was difficult to tell if those holes we're weld spots or holes. Also, good call on the venting. I was also going to mention that, but figured I'd wait for pics or you to bring it up. :) Finished my box template last night as well and will probably roll will 18 gauge, maybe 20 thinnest. Good job!
 

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Hi guys, Here are some additional pictures. May be overkill, but I always like seeing what someone has done, as well as getting a description. So here we go, I will narrate as we go through the pictures:

Here is a better shot of the drain holes I added before bending. They were dual purpose in that they drain, but also made it easier to bend the 14 gauge steel. I also like how they look right on the edge.
100_9886.JPG

Next is a shot of the interior. I used the old solenoid mounting bracket and welded it to the interior wall of the box. This way it still has all the rubber mounting as it was originally. Also, I added pads for the battery to rest on. Added pads to all the sides. You can see I added a small divider wall between the battery compartment and the solenoid compartment. This way I could add a pad there so that the battery cannot move. Also added padding to the top lid. The battery is nice and tight, yet I can still get to the connections.
100_9888.JPG

Here is a shot with the battery in the box. I used the SHORAI LFX14L2-BS12. It has the same specs as the original battery, but at a fraction of the size. I can be mounted in any direction. I have friends who have used this battery in several bikes and they have worked perfectly. It was a little spendy, I think I paid around $130-$140.
100_9891.JPG

I also wanted to point out how I hinged the back side of the lid. When you see it on the bike, you will see that it could be tough to secure the top, so I decided to add 2 tabs on the back, and cut slits into the back of the box. this way I will be able to tilt the whole box down to make connections, and simply slide the back of the lid into those groves and then bolt the front of the lid on.
100_9900.JPG 100_9902.JPG

I welded a nut on the inside of the box for the front of the lid to bolt through.
100_9903.JPG

OK, time to attach it to the bike. The tabs I left on the back of the box attach to the original rear H-box holes first so you can tilt down the box to make final connections.
100_9904.JPG

And, finally, the box mounted. First shot is Left side, then right side, and then zoomed out so you can see it in context with the bike.
100_9911.JPG 100_9913.JPG 100_9915.JPG

By the way, the interior dimensions of the box are 4.75" x 2.75" x 5.5". I hope this helps! And sorry for such a long reply. As a side note, you can see the rest of the bike in my post "Minnesota Winter Project" if you are interested.
 

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Nice piece of work. But you do realize that if it was for a real cafe racer you would need to drill a lot more holes in it everywhere to reduce the weight. I'm sure you could easily shave a couple of ounces in a half an hour with a 1/2" drill :p Remember the mantra: lost weight = free power

Or you could have used aluminum like I did :rolleyes: (my 1/4" aluminum 1/2 box probably weighs as much as your sheet metal full one does but Eccles is not a "racer")

When I originally made my battery box it sat behind the seat on my first GoldWing/Dnepr sidecar outfit. I mounted the box almost level and drilled one hole in the lowest corner, sized so that I could push a piece of clear plastic tubing into it. The tubing was routed so that any acid that ended up in the box from rain washing deposits off of the top of the battery would be carried down to where they wouldn't do any harm. The hole is still in the lowest corner on Eccles but I don't bother with a tube anymore since it is at the rear and mounted so low. BTW: I also have a plastic cover over the battery to prevent anything from contacting the terminals unexpectedly.
 

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Hi guys, Here are some additional pictures. May be overkill, but I always like seeing what someone has done, as well as getting a description. So here we go, I will narrate as we go through the pictures:

Here is a better shot of the drain holes I added before bending. They were dual purpose in that they drain, but also made it easier to bend the 14 gauge steel. I also like how they look right on the edge.
View attachment 20804

Next is a shot of the interior. I used the old solenoid mounting bracket and welded it to the interior wall of the box. This way it still has all the rubber mounting as it was originally. Also, I added pads for the battery to rest on. Added pads to all the sides. You can see I added a small divider wall between the battery compartment and the solenoid compartment. This way I could add a pad there so that the battery cannot move. Also added padding to the top lid. The battery is nice and tight, yet I can still get to the connections.
View attachment 20805

Here is a shot with the battery in the box. I used the SHORAI LFX14L2-BS12. It has the same specs as the original battery, but at a fraction of the size. I can be mounted in any direction. I have friends who have used this battery in several bikes and they have worked perfectly. It was a little spendy, I think I paid around $130-$140.
View attachment 20806

I also wanted to point out how I hinged the back side of the lid. When you see it on the bike, you will see that it could be tough to secure the top, so I decided to add 2 tabs on the back, and cut slits into the back of the box. this way I will be able to tilt the whole box down to make connections, and simply slide the back of the lid into those groves and then bolt the front of the lid on.
View attachment 20807 View attachment 20808

I welded a nut on the inside of the box for the front of the lid to bolt through.
View attachment 20810

OK, time to attach it to the bike. The tabs I left on the back of the box attach to the original rear H-box holes first so you can tilt down the box to make final connections.
View attachment 20811

And, finally, the box mounted. First shot is Left side, then right side, and then zoomed out so you can see it in context with the bike.
View attachment 20812 View attachment 20813 View attachment 20814

By the way, the interior dimensions of the box are 4.75" x 2.75" x 5.5". I hope this helps! And sorry for such a long reply. As a side note, you can see the rest of the bike in my post "Minnesota Winter Project" if you are interested.
Makes it much clearer now with the pics. Actually like the idea of you also mounting your solenoid in the box as well which gives more room underneath the seat. If only my AGM was only as tiny and light as your lithium that would be great, but gotta make use with what I have. Great work and pics KD! :D
 

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c/e not be be a wet blanky but keep an eye on your battery box as you get some miles on it

the drilling of holes on the bend line promotes cracking during the bend and it lets the crack go from one down the line
Very valid point Murray. Especially with the weight of an AGM vs Lithium, I'm sure it would be bound to happen sooner than expected.
 
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