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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I bought a new 14L-A2 battery from Napa today. Was on sale for $38.49. I don't know if that's a national price or how long it's good for, but for a standard wet cell that you put the acid in yourself (included), that is a pretty good price.



Now the question. My current battery has recently become very lacking in getting the starter to spin. I put it on my charger overnight last night, and it still barely kicked over. Bike runs fine once going, and so far it will give one or two revs enough to get fire.



It's about two years, maybe 3, old. I have the new one getting ready, but may have one more day yet to be able to put it in, just mainly because of my work schedule. As we speak I have just put the acid in and letting settle for an hour. Then I can put my auto charger on 2amp and let it do its thing.



Is this fairly normal time pattern for a standard battery? I can't remember how long my first gel battery lasted, but I am pretty sure it was longer. I read on the archives some mention of the Motobat, but I wanted to get something right away to avoid being stuck.



Just curious Joel in the Couve
 

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The price sounds pretty close to the prices I pay for a similar battery for my CB360. At wal*mart.



The wet batteries don't seem to last too long, especially if they go dry or get discharged quite a bit (my current battery is now getting charged again, but it has gone semi-dry | below the low level | and I need to put it on the tender if I don't ride it within a week or so).



If you have the same problem after you install the new battery, next step is to test the starter. At least that is the way I read your post.
 

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The CX/GL engines require a "good" charge to start them. It has something to do with the pulsar or ignitor coils having enough juice to spark. (or something like that)



New battery should take of it.



....also, 3 years is about the limit of a lead/acid battery these days. I remember the fix car I ever bought had an old battrey in it when I got it, and 6 years later, I sold the car with the same old battery in it.!!!! Mind you, we had only just got electricity, back then.

 

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The CX/GL engines require a "good" charge to start them. It has something to do with the pulsar or ignitor coils having enough juice to spark. (or something like that)



New battery should take of it.



....also, 3 years is about the limit of a lead/acid battery these days. I remember the fix car I ever bought had an old battrey in it when I got it, and 6 years later, I sold the car with the same old battery in it.!!!! Mind you, we had only just got electricity, back then.

hey,i bought my BMW 320I 21 years ago,it still runs a dream,100,000 miles later,with the same battery.must be some sort of record.lol
 

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The initial filling up and charging of a new battery is important to aid it's longevity.Hopefully you have followed the maker's recommendations?



With my Dynavolt batteries you fill to between the low/high marks.Leave for four hours,then charge at a maximum of 10% of the Amp hour rate of 14 amps which = 1.4 amps.



You should clean and service your Stater motor,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=208



and make sure all large power cables are cleaned at the end and bare the area they contact to the frame where the Ground strap/s are concerned.Also the Starter motor should have a good ground so when off make sure the area on the opposite side of where the bolts go through is clean and bare as is the area it mates to on the frame-bracket.



HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The initial filling up and charging of a new battery is important to aid it's longevity.Hopefully you have followed the maker's recommendations?



With my Dynavolt batteries you fill to between the low/high marks.Leave for four hours,then charge at a maximum of 10% of the Amp hour rate of 14 amps which = 1.4 amps.



You should clean and service your Stater motor,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=208



and make sure all large power cables are cleaned at the end and bare the area they contact to the frame where the Ground strap/s are concerned.Also the Starter motor should have a good ground so when off make sure the area on the opposite side of where the bolts go through is clean and bare as is the area it mates to on the frame-bracket.



HTH


Yes Shep, that task in on my next list. I had considered those items, even though this all started during a rather hot spell. As many of you know, I'm not very able to do much wrenching on my own due to hand strength, but I hope to get many of these simple tasks out of the way soon, somehow.

I'll report back on the new battery once installed. And yes, I did pay CLOSE heed to the mfg. instructions. *that hydrochloric acid is NOT very fun to get on ya! don't ask how I know, but it wasn't from this venture*



That reminds me.......completely off topic......

Shep, in RE: abbreviations.....what does HTH mean???
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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There's an old saying I saw the other day - batteries don't die, they get killed by their owner.



It was however in relation to traction (forklift) batteries and probably applies there, my experience with car batteries usually ends up as a 4 - 5 (sometimes 6)year life.



They say to never let a wet cell battery drop below an 80% charge level for any length of time and the quicker it's brought back to 100% the better.



Low water level is the most common enemy of small engine batteries, they tend to go through water a lot faster than any others for some reason. Could be the large demands put on them during starting and/or less than ideal charging circuitry. Regardless there's nothing I hate more than a battery tht develops a dead cell as there's rarely any warning. Some may exhibit it and it goes away for a while after some repeated charge/discharge cycles but at $29.95 (for an Exide at a local farm store) I'd just as soon replace mine every few years.



I too have read good things about the Motobatt but only years of actual "in use" testing could prove that they came out the winner in a long term contest.
 

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I too have read good things about the Motobatt but only years of actual "in use" testing could prove that they came out the winner in a long term contest.


I can say NEVER use an MF battery if you get them over there.I had one go in no time and my Pal had to change his new one within a couple of weeks




In the UK I'm trying Dynavolt ones,



http://www.dynavolt.co.uk/



They seem to be fine so far but as you say only time will tell.I got them because of their 190amp CC instead of the standard 140 amp CC on most of our batteries,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/BatteryCare.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, after a grueling work week, I found time this holiday weekend to check the new battery charged right, and then installed. *Note, I had difficulty judging the fluid level when putting the acid in, and it may be that some of the cells may be a tad too full, should I concern myself with this?* Bike fired immediately with just a bump on the starter button. So the old battery was definitely tired and had lost its CCA even when fully charged.



I hope this new one doesn't exhibit the woes that Bandit has.



Thanks for all the input guys, awesome as always.



Joel in the Couve
 

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Well, after a grueling work week, I found time this holiday weekend to check the new battery charged right, and then installed. *Note, I had difficulty judging the fluid level when putting the acid in, and it may be that some of the cells may be a tad too full, should I concern myself with this?* Bike fired immediately with just a bump on the starter button. So the old battery was definitely tired and had lost its CCA even when fully charged.



I hope this new one doesn't exhibit the woes that Bandit has.



Thanks for all the input guys, awesome as always.



Joel in the Couve




Joel,



I'm on my third battery this year. I seem to have the bad habit of hitting the kill switch but not taking my keys out of ignition. When I revisit the bike the next day, dead battery with no hope of recharging.



Our batt's can be purchased for the least amount at BiMart. I think they run about $32.00 for the 14al and no core charge. Seems to be the best deal around.



Now if I could just figure out some sort of Moron alarm for when I forget to remove my keys.
 

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Joel,



I'm on my third battery this year. I seem to have the bad habit of hitting the kill switch but not taking my keys out of ignition. When I revisit the bike the next day, dead battery with no hope of recharging.



Our batt's can be purchased for the least amount at BiMart. I think they run about $32.00 for the 14al and no core charge. Seems to be the best deal around.



Now if I could just figure out some sort of Moron alarm for when I forget to remove my keys.




In 6 years of running these bikes I've only used the Kill switch to stop the engine once.I just turn the ignition off.I consider the kill switch to be an emergency only device.The only battery I have,"Killed" was one physically damaged when my bike went down crossing a stream.



I suggest you get out of the habit of using the kill switch altogether.



My 10 penn'th.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, I never use the kill switch. I'm not sure why leaving the key in would drain the battery tho'. Hmmmmmm. By the way, thanks for the tip on BiMart..I'm a member. Have been since they opened their first store in Eugene way back.



Joel in the Couve.
 

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I never use my kill switch either. In fact I tend to forget that it is there. I am preparing to install a NOS one on the bike soon, so that will likely jog my memory some.
 

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Kill switches are heaps of fun. You just ride next your buddy, and flick his to the OFF position, change down a gear, and you're at the Pub first.



Hi, BIL. no hard feelings
 

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Kill switches are heaps of fun. You just ride next your buddy, and flick his to the OFF position, change down a gear, and you're at the Pub first.



Hi, BIL. no hard feelings
not a good idea bear,means you have to pay
 
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