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Hey guys so my battery needs a change. Now I know im supposed to find a 12v 14amp/h lead acid... but i would like to get some opinions.

These Li batteries are so light and a smaller pack would be nicer if i hid in it during the rebuild.

That said electrics are the biggest weakness in my personal knowledge base, so would love to get some advice before i waste 200 on a Ballistic 8 cell haha.

Cheers guys.
 

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I would recommend you do some research on the LI batteries and their charging requirements. All battery types have a specific ideal charge curve, and some chargers will destroy some types of batteries. NiCd and LI have very specific charge rates that are VERY different from Lead-acid batteries. Also, remember these are 30+ year old bikes with 30+ year old tech. Myself, I would never use anything but a LA battery on one of these bikes (AGM are the best for size and life).

So, my opinion .... stay clear of anything but LA unless you want to replace the charging system to one compatable with other battery types. Do some research on the net, as REAL facts are far better than "I used 500 ma LI micro batteries and never had any problems" opinions. All here will have an opinion, so the best thing is do some battery research before committing. There is a write up in the WIKI pages, but feel free to search the web for more "unbiased" material (as I wrote most of the battery wiki stuff, it could be seen as biased).
 

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I need a new battery for my 500. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Do a search on YTX14AHL-BS ,they are a sealed AGM battery that fit my 81 GL500, should fit yours. Great service life going on 5 years. I use a specific float charger for AGM batteries. I paid $35.00 on Ebay.
 

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If you want to go LI, then Shorai is your best bet.

There's a lot of misinformation out there, volts are volts - amps are amps. Most modern LI batteries for motorsports have overcharge protection circuitry.

Shorai won't hurt your bike, and your bike won't hurt it.
 

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My bikes old standard type lead acid battery is still going strong approaching 5 years old. I don't beleive the hype around some of the more modern batteries longevity. Except for maybe the Optima.... but that's lead acid anyway I think, just with the plates rolled up.
 

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Been running a Ballistic 8 Cell for a year with no issues whatsoever. Mind you all turn signals, brake lights are LED as are the gauges. There is only the headlight and ignition on load for the stator. I have a 1980 CX so it's a CDI bike.

Stator is healthy and battery is still strong. I did buy the special charger for it, and I do "balance" the cells every 8 weeks. I bought it specifically because of it's size and the 5 yr warranty.

I did look into an AGM battery and have friends that bought the one mentioned about with great results.

I think what you need to decide is where you are putting the battery and if size is something of a consideration.
 

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one word on LI batteries if you like riding your bike into the cold weather make sure you read up in Shorai website

about cold weather starting and make sure it is what you want to deal with

i installed one in my bike and pulled it out 3 days later and have never used another since in a bike that was going to be used

near freezing
 

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If you want to go LI, then Shorai is your best bet.

There's a lot of misinformation out there, volts are volts - amps are amps. Most modern LI batteries for motorsports have overcharge protection circuitry.

Shorai won't hurt your bike, and your bike won't hurt it.
While technology has come a long way to making all batteries equal, and SOME LI systems are now being designed for bikes, the above statement is absolutely WRONG. Everyone has the ability and choice to do what ever they would like to their bike builds, but I draw the line at bad information. I worked for 20+ years designing battery chargers for Fire Protection Equipment and cringe when I see someone make a reckless comment like that. If you want to use single LI cells put together on your bike then thats your call, but do not make a statement like above, as its false ... plain and simple.
Look on any battery type charger or manual ... they ALL say "use only xx batteries in this charger" and other warning statements like that. Do you think the manufacturers spend a ton on money to put labels on something that doesn't need it ?

Anyway, not trying to get heavy handed here, but when I see a statement like that made it makes my back go up, wondering how many may listen and regret it later. No different than me saying "yea, you can use Crisco cooking oil in your engine, oil is oil, I do it and have never had a problem". Seriously, offering advise is fine, but be sure you know the facts.
 

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Hey guys so my battery needs a change. Now I know im supposed to find a 12v 14amp/h lead acid... but i would like to get some opinions.

These Li batteries are so light and a smaller pack would be nicer if i hid in it during the rebuild.

That said electrics are the biggest weakness in my personal knowledge base, so would love to get some advice before i waste 200 on a Ballistic 8 cell haha.

Cheers guys.
After replacing the batteries in my Lifans with AGM's from Webb Sales on EBay, I bought an AGM for my '79D project bike. That's what I'd recommend, an AGM:

YTX14AHL BS YB14L A2 New SEALED AGM Battery 4 Arctic Cat Snowmobile Tiger Shark | eBay

Not much lighter than conventional wet cell batteries but they can be used in any position, are reasonably priced and really hold a charge.....after sitting for the last two months, I put a charger on all the bikes and the ones with the AGM's went right to "float" on the smart charger, indicating a full charge. The wet cells required hours to charge fully to "float" status.

VC3
 

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While technology has come a long way to making all batteries equal, and SOME LI systems are now being designed for bikes, the above statement is absolutely WRONG. Everyone has the ability and choice to do what ever they would like to their bike builds, but I draw the line at bad information. I worked for 20+ years designing battery chargers for Fire Protection Equipment and cringe when I see someone make a reckless comment like that. If you want to use single LI cells put together on your bike then thats your call, but do not make a statement like above, as its false ... plain and simple.
Look on any battery type charger or manual ... they ALL say "use only xx batteries in this charger" and other warning statements like that. Do you think the manufacturers spend a ton on money to put labels on something that doesn't need it ?

Anyway, not trying to get heavy handed here, but when I see a statement like that made it makes my back go up, wondering how many may listen and regret it later. No different than me saying "yea, you can use Crisco cooking oil in your engine, oil is oil, I do it and have never had a problem". Seriously, offering advise is fine, but be sure you know the facts.
"Bad Information"?

Sorry, I didn't mean to piss in you cheerios, but the Shorai units are made specifically to operate in motorcycles. They also can be charged - off the bike - with either Shorai's chargers, or any of the "Battery-Tender" brand of chargers. The only caveat with charging is that the charger in question must not have an automatic de-sulfitation mode.

You can think what you want, but don't tell me that I mislead anyone, especially without pointing out how.
 

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After replacing the batteries in my Lifans with AGM's from Webb Sales on EBay, I bought an AGM for my '79D project bike. That's what I'd recommend, an AGM:

YTX14AHL BS YB14L A2 New SEALED AGM Battery 4 Arctic Cat Snowmobile Tiger Shark | eBay

Not much lighter than conventional wet cell batteries but they can be used in any position, are reasonably priced and really hold a charge.....after sitting for the last two months, I put a charger on all the bikes and the ones with the AGM's went right to "float" on the smart charger, indicating a full charge. The wet cells required hours to charge fully to "float" status.

VC3
I use an AGM battery in my CX500 - this is because it gets ridden year-round, and in the cold of winter. This is where LI batteries fall short. While they have a much better self-discharge rate than either AGM or LA (and weigh a crap-ton less), they suck at cranking in the cold.

I have, however, had problems with AGM's in regard to running them on my in-line four's. These tend to have charging rate towards the high limit of 15 volts, pretty regularly, and this causes a short life-span on the AGM's - I find.
 

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"Bad Information"?

Sorry, I didn't mean to piss in you cheerios, but the Shorai units are made specifically to operate in motorcycles. They also can be charged - off the bike - with either Shorai's chargers, or any of the "Battery-Tender" brand of chargers. The only caveat with charging is that the charger in question must not have an automatic de-sulfitation mode.

You can think what you want, but don't tell me that I mislead anyone, especially without pointing out how.
First, reread my post. Yes, some LI batteries are made for bikes, but not ALL (I did state that). "AMPS is AMPS, Volts is Volts" is a totally erroneous statement when used in the context of your post. Every battery type has a specific required charge voltage/current graph that needs to be maintained to prevent battery and/or charger damage. THIS is the statement I took exception to (not the specific battery Shorai you listed), as LA, NiCd, LI Dry battery's are NOT considered equal. These bikes are 30+ years old and the tech on the charging circuit was designed BEFORE LI were even available to the public. When LI came out they could NOT be charged with a LA system or they would explode, just like NiCd ones.

YES, they have "SPECIFIC" listed LI batterys for bikes (as you posted) but many LI ones that ARE NOT. When you make a comment as I pointed out, its the same as saying you can use ANY battery on the bike, or "ANY oil is ok, even cutting oil". As for pissing in my cheerios, I am really only here to try to help people, and if that means correcting a false statement then I will do that, and I do such for clarity only and not as any form of attack on the poster. I make mistakes all the time and am glad when someone points out my error, as thats the way we learn.

My intention here is not to piss you or anyone else off, it is simply to prevent someone from making a mistake based on bad information, nothing more. If nothing else, anyone seeing this exchange will know that the Shorai LI may be fine for our bikes, but other one may cause immediate problems. Again, many things are sold for bikes and cars, but remember that new items are usually made for and tested on NEW cars and bikes. Will the Shorai make the stator/RR explode when you install it, no. Will it cause strain to the stator/RR or be strained by the CX charging system, I dont know as I dont think there has ever been any long term testing. So, if someone asks me if this battery you listed will be ok, my response is FACT .... I dont know.
 

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My "amps is..." statement applies to on the bike only (maybe I should have clarified that).

On the bike, there is no difference, the charging circuit just supplies between 14 and 15 volts to charge the battery (no fancy graphs ON THE BIKE, just straight current).
 

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LI batteries require completely different charge rates than Lead Acid. These bikes are set up to charge Lead Acid batts.

Charge Li battery too fast or too long will cause the lithium metal to begin plating out of cells. This is an exothermic reaction and is very detrimental.

Power tool manufacturers go thru a great deal of design, testing, verification to get the LI cells to behave in power tools across all temperature ranges. The circuit boards, firmware and control is what makes the LI batteries last and behave properly.

Not trying to sound an alarm bell, just trying to offer a perspective. Think back a bit, Boeing had multiple issues with LI cells. It was a charging issue, IIRC. I think the Boeing Electrical Engineers and Circuit Engineers have a bit more on the ball than I do. I am only in the power tool business.

I would counsel against placing an LI into these bikes using the original charging system.

Lets back up to a practical side. The LI do weigh less than a similar ampacity LA battery. But in realistic terms, you save how much weight??? I'll be generous, say 6 lbs from a 460 lb bike add a 200 lb rider......the weight savings is...........less than 1%. Is it really worth the risk of a catastrophic failure????

Do what you wish. Just be aware of the risks and benefits.
 

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My "amps is..." statement applies to on the bike only (maybe I should have clarified that).

On the bike, there is no difference, the charging circuit just supplies between 14 and 15 volts to charge the battery (no fancy graphs ON THE BIKE, just straight current).
That was my point, the charging circuit of these bikes is a nasty raw "force pusle" charge system, where most of the charging systems today use "foldback" regulation. This is the reason a dead or dying battery on the bike can split, blow the R/R or kill the stator due to over current heating. All batteries have different "charge characteristics" and their chargers are designed for that. LA are the easiest to design for as they will take a lot of abuse and there current draw as largely based on the plate charging voltage (if they are not damaged or dying). LI and other types (like NiCad at others) have a specific charge voltages and currents that are required to charge them and prevent damage. LI batteries are great for supplying stead current draws until there charge is almost exhausted (unlike LA the drop current over their whole charge), but they also have limitations. They are not good cold and require time to "heat up" to be able to supply their rated current. They also require unique charging if they drop too low, and many older LA charger will not be able to make them take a charge when fully discharged (you need to use a specific LI charger to get the battery above its minimum before a LA charger will do anything).

The point here is not if a LI battery will charge or run a bike, it is how it reacts with the current CX charging system (on the Shorai site you will find a list of bikes these batteries are compatible with, and most are newer bikes, 2000 and on). Should someone use these on their bike, well thats there choice, and i see no problems with it IF they know facts about it (have seen posts here where people put LI on the bike and then are pissed it wont start when its cold). Thats all this is about, is presenting the FACTS to people and allow them to decide.

Saying "These batteries are perfect for the bike and wont hurt anything" is NOT a factual statement unless you have tested it over time and situations. "I use this battery on my bike and I have had no problems" IS a true statement as it doesnt imply "I guarantee this" (unless you get Shorai to send a letter of guarantee stating that the battery will be fine for a CX charging system). I bet if you ask you will get the same response all manufacturers use "refer to your operator/owners manual to see if this product is compatable with your situation" .... which boils down to "use at your own risk".

So, If you want to tell others you use this and you have had no issues, thats perfectly fine, just dont word it in such a way as to say "This is fact", as we all know it is NOT
 

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Now, I'm taking exception with what you are saying...

The is absolutely nothing on this bike (or any other of its vintage) that controls "how fast" or "how long" that charging current is applied to the battery by the bike itself. This type of charging only applies to external chargers.

The CX's charging system is fairly rudimentary, it just pushes 14-15 volts to the battery, excess voltage is shunted to ground.
 

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Now, I'm taking exception with what you are saying...

The is absolutely nothing on this bike (or any other of its vintage) that controls "how fast" or "how long" that charging current is applied to the battery by the bike itself. This type of charging only applies to external chargers.

The CX's charging system is fairly rudimentary, it just pushes 14-15 volts to the battery, excess voltage is shunted to ground.

Well, thats half right, and makes my point for me. Yep, rudimentary charging system that "trys to keep the plate voltages at the required level for charging current to flow. It does NOT limit charge current directly, but tries to limit it by varying the plate charge voltage. For LA batteries, this works ok, but other types, LI included this is BAD NEWS. If the LI battery is allowed to suck too much charging current, then you have a problem. You can damage the battery plates as Knute posted above, you can fry the stator windings by excess current draw causing winding overheat, or you can pop the R/R charge SCR's (as they have no over current protection).

You can take exception to anything I post, I no issue with that, but please provide facts and details of your objection. Again, not trying to piss you off, but Im a electronic engineer who built these systems for a living. I may not know a lot about bikes, but this IS my area of expertise. There is far more to charging and maintaining a battery that setting the charge voltage.
 

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And, as previously stated the Shorai batteries have internal charge limiting circuitry (as do any other LI designed for motorsports use). Your statement of "I would counsel against placing an LI into these bikes using the original charging system" is both misleading and inaccurate.

Putting a LI into these bikes that was designed for motorsports use (like the Shorai), is completely safe and proper.

I don't, but that is because I need the cold-cranking that LI does not give.

I do, however use the LI's on the bikes I own that are not used as frequently, or in the colder months, due to low self-discharge rate.
 
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