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Discussion Starter #1
Easter extra long weekend in Australia. Was yours as good as mine?
I picked up a mate Saturday morning and went down 4 hours drive to Australia's capital, Canberra, to pick up a 1983 CX650 E.
That's me mate preparing for the big ride. (that's how we speak in these parts)

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Got home late on Saturday so I parked it and started to think..............

THE HISTORY

PO bought it back in 2010 form someone in South Australia. Used it as a daily ride for 4 years, had an accident, and garaged it the last 4 years.
The bike has 21,000 Km on the clock, the rear plastic is cracked, tank has a dent, and left mirror missing.

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On the positive, bike was garaged by a bike caring PO, he gave me 3 new oil filters with rubbers, and a genuine spark plug spanner, as well as several bits and pieces. He also gave me all the historical paperwork and even an article from "Two Wheels" magazine from 1983. Ah, and it was a very good price.

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The only rust I can see is in the frame near the left front tank mount, but just surface stuff, and the engine hangers, but they look pretty chunky and should not be a problem (me thinks).

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I started the CX500 (Build..... or Crucefixion) rather poorly. I tore it down before I had a chance to ride it, with the sole intent of building a Cafe racer. I was left with the mystery of what these bikes are like to ride. So I decided that this one would start life differently. With the 500 is the progression bin, I wanted a bike I can ride for now. So I came up with a plan......Just get it running and ride it, then decide WHAT?

I have been reading posts for some time now on this forum, and the advice to newbies keeps repeating, so I gathered all the knowledge, and combined it with JC's excellent Motofaction, and proceeded to prepare the bike for it's first start. The PO told me that it is a starter, but I didn't try it out. Instead, I went through the methods described here and in Motofaction.

Here's it comes ( I'll have some questions at the end and along the way)
 
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Removed seat and tank, checked condition of tank. Good. Checked electrical connectors under seat and around battery area. All clean and in good state.

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Checked throttle cables and choke for ease of operation. Good. Hoses. All good.

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Checked for leaks around the water pump and generally around engine....None detected. There was a little oil around the gear shift spindle oil seal, but not much.

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Checked operation of brake lever/pedal and clutch. All good. The clutch lever is a little wobbly, and the 2 nuts at end of clutch cable I think should be above, not one up one down. Can somebody confirm?

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The gear change pedal was very lose, so I re-tightened (8ftlb) it and took most of the play out of it.

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Checked the handlebar lock bolts on the fuse holder and they were not up to torque. So I removed it and checked steering stem nut....also well below torque. Re-tightened these to specified toques... 70ftlb for steering stem nut and 20 ftlb for handle bar bolts.

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TYRES

Avon Roadriders front and rear, pretty much unused. 100/90/18 front and 120/80/18 rear. Right on spec.

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No cracks, and tread to burn, but ....

FRONT
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8 years old

AND REAR
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6 years old

Keep'em or change'em???
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, two nuts above for the clutch end.

I wondered who picked that one up, it was a really good price. Glad to see it was someone local ;)

I have 650 envy - mine is closer than it was last time you saw it but still not on the road.
Thanks JC. I'll adjust accordingly.

I may have it registered and on the road when I go visit you soon.
 

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If it were my bike I'd change them... the difference in "tack" feel between a new tyre and one that's ~8 years old has been noticeable every time I have been in that situation.

Also, having gone rolling down the road once I'm personally extra keen to have the two strips of rubber keeping the bike upright be within spec... tyre manufacturers typically state >5years replace.
 

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BRAKES

Bled brake lines and fresh DOT3 brake fluid. I've never done this before so I used the FSM as a guide, including the spacer on the lever travel.

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The front brake felt good after, but the rear brake pedal bottoms out with only little resistance.

Any advice???
 

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If it were my bike I'd change them... the difference in "tack" feel between a new tyre and one that's ~8 years old has been noticeable every time I have been in that situation.

Also, having gone rolling down the road once I'm personally extra keen to have the two strips of rubber keeping the bike upright be within spec... tyre manufacturers typically state >5years replace.
Sound advice. Lots of pain the alternative to a few buck worth of peace of mind.
 

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Air will go to the highest point in the line; you can see that the line is higher than the caliper there, so you may need to actually take the setup off the bike (or at least the caliper etc.) and bleed it with the highest point being that which you're drawing the fluid/air from.

You may also have luck with a vacuum bleeding setup; I picked up one a few weeks ago and haven't done anything but front brakes with it so I couldn't say whether it'd help with that particular problem.

All three of the 650E's I have had have needed a rear master rebuild, so that's a possibility too.
 

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Carbs and fuel.

This was too much for me today so I elected to leave as is. I did inspect the fuel tank and found no rust, and the fuel seemed good. I'm still a little lost around the carbs, so I gambled on them and left them alone. Motofaction recommends draining carb bowls to check fuel state. Maybe tomorrow.
 

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Air will go to the highest point in the line; you can see that the line is higher than the caliper there, so you may need to actually take the setup off the bike (or at least the caliper etc.) and bleed it with the highest point being that which you're drawing the fluid/air from.

You may also have luck with a vacuum bleeding setup; I picked up one a few weeks ago and haven't done anything but front brakes with it so I couldn't say whether it'd help with that particular problem.

All three of the 650E's I have had have needed a rear master rebuild, so that's a possibility too.
Cool. I'll try the first option and see how goes.
 

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ROTORS

The font were

RIGHT 5.2mm, LEFT 4.7mm
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REAR 6.7mm
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Still a bit of life left...Nest ce pas?
 

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ENGINE FLUIDS - OIL

Drained oil and removed filter to check for contamination and debris. Oil was black but clean.

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New oil filter and rubbers. Kindly supplied by PO.

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This one had the spring but no washer on the oil bolt. Luckily, I have 2 spares that CXPHREAK sent me to give to JC.....I confiscated one JC.....but I will pay you for this one. It will go with a few other things that I will order from you soon.

Then topped up with fresh Penrite 10W40 synthetic JASO MA. Supercheap Auto has this 6L for $55 AUD. Good Aussie oil.

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That's the thickest rear rotor I have seen in a while... so many seem to be worn well down beyond 6mm (limit) with a nice little ridge at the edge that's within spec.
That looks like a mightily powerful rear brake. Probably more that one wants in a non ABS bike. Need a gentle foot.
 

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ENGINE FLUIDS - COOLANT

Had to remove the radiator shroud. Allen bolts...you beauty. IIRC the 500 had philips (or JIS?)....no matter......bloody pain to get to the top one.

Drained the radiator...

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I prepared 2.5 L of 50/50 ethylene glycol and demineralised water expecting to replace about 2.1 L.....

Poured very slowly as recommended in manual and all over this forum.....

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but only managed to replace 1.2 L when it topped out...???
 

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STATOR CHECK

This is a TI model, and the stator only charges the battery, but can still be buggered.

As per Motofaction, I proceeded with the recommended test.

On lowest resistance (Ohms) reading, tested for resistance in the leads first. There was 0.7 ohm

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I then tested the three connectors on that stator connector with 3 yellow wires,

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and got 1.2 ohm for each of all 3 combo's. Subtract 0.7 (lead resistance) from 1.2 and get 0.5 ohm. Less than 1 is what we're looking for. So all good so far.

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This was done cold. It's recommended to also do on a warmed up system, but I'm not ready for that....yet.
 

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SPARK PLUGS AND VALVE CLEARANCES

Removed the spark plugs for inspection....not bad. Dark, clean, and dry.

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Removed the front inspection cap to access the crank shaft (17mm sockets both)

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....and the inspection cap on the case behind the right cylinder to check position of respective pistons as the crank is turned.....

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Checked the valve clearances as follows

0.1mm inlet valves, 0.12mm exhaust valves.

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All had much bigger clearances than spec, so adjusted accordingly. Got to get me one of Murray's tools !
 
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