I dont see how else to install the cap. My long screw is closer to the terminal than in your photo. Is this a big deal? I'm making everything line up w the features inside the cap. I think I posted that I saw mention in the manual to line up punch marks. well, of course, no punchmarks except on the hollow cylinder -- nothing to line them up with. I see the punch marks in the photo above -- they're not lined up w matching punch marks on the caps. ?
Proper alignment is necessary so that the stud for connecting the cable will be in the right place for the cable to reach when you install it on the engine. The way you have the stud oriented you could easily hit it with your heel and damage something.
The alignment marks are lines, not punch marks and they can be hard to see sometimes. I've enlarged the pic above and circled the set that is barely visible in it.
OK! I'll fix... But... but... but... Is it relevant for getting the thing to function? Doesn't sound like it relates to electricity. I appreciate not hitting it w my foot, but... So far, for me, it's a chunk of metal not a starter. I'll test again today and try push wires away from body. A short sounds bad. Hopefully a short also wd mean total failure. coz that's why i have now... and am hoping to fix... but the worst thing is it reveals that i dont understand electricity or mechanics much...
Current in an electrical circuit flows from one side of the supply, through the circuit elements (switches,loads &c) and back to the other side of the supply (in this case the battery is the supply.
A short circuit (commonly called a short) is when something allows the current to take a shortcut abck to the other side without going through the circuit elements it should pass through. A wire or other conductor touching something it shouldn't touch is a common cause of shorts.
The brush plate aligns with the barrel so that the contact from the outer coils is properly aligned (and fixed with a screw.) The plate has a tab to align the cap in a particular orientation. If that's not correct, you might not be making good ground contact.
I had tried aligning them before and couldn't see how. There are symmetric features inside the cap that lined up what I thought were the right way but which weren't! And the 'punchmark' on the cap is just a molded seam which i thought was just a molded seam. i wasn't having luck finding what i'd call a punchmark. but FINALLY! and it works great.
now i'll see what happens when i reinstall, etc. ... i don't know anything but i can't help pushing forward an inch if it's possible. one never knows til one tries... if it makes a kinda pretty sound i'll start in on the gas tank and carbs.
after that? lordy. it still seems like a sketchy idea for someone who doesn't want to be a wrench. i should find one that runs for cheap...
someone here mentioned they had one that ran that they'd sell. ...had another project ahead of it, as I recall. maybe it was in Ohio?
i also saw another running one nearby for sale, 1200.
Keep in mind that if you are planning to own any antique vehicle you will either need to work on it yourself or have very deep pockets and then only if you can find someone who either knows enough about your particular make & model or is willing to invest time time & effort to learn how to work on it properly when they may not see another of them this year (a few cases of shops that weren't willing to learn but still overcharged for doing the work wrong have washed up on the forum over the years).
I want something midsize, versatile, rugged, suitable for two on a picnic or going out to dinner. Won't blow up on gravel. 10% freeway time. 10% over 2 hrs. priced similar to a car of the same period. ha.
it seems like newer bikes that fit this idea are replicas of older bikes. and even used they cost more than cars. like a 2008 moto will be $5k. many cars only $3-4k.