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If it doesn't turn nice now removing that corrosion will not make it turn any better. You may have corrosion in the bushing that the shaft turns in.

Do not do anything to the commutator, the part where the brushes run, other than polishing it up with an ink eraser or something similar. No abrasive paper!
 

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I use white dryrub 180 or 240 paper on the armature and field magnets. I would refrain from using steel wool on the body with the field magnets. A heavy duty stainless scourer may be useful and the bits that come off are big enough to find to clean them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
i dont know about armatures or field magnets or anything technical, but i'll look into it. i see rust. apparently it's bad to get rid of this rust in usual ways.
 

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Replacement is an option to be considered but may not be a necessity.

Field magnets are the magnets held in place by the screws in the main case. The armature is the main part that spins. The commutator is the segmented brass end of the armature that the carbon brushes bear on.

The drive gear can be removed after undoing its retention circlip, then the front aluminium support can be removed from the armature.
 

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The laminated steel rotor is pretty tough, I’d sand it as clean as practical. The copper commutator needs to be handled more gently. I spin it in an electric hand drill while burnishing it evenly until bright with fine emery or sand paper, then gently scrape the commutator gaps clear of debris, then a final light rotary burnish to remove any little burrs caused by the gap scraping. Clean/air blow or whatever all grit and debris from all the parts. Upon reassembly install the same washers on the correct end (order should not matter) with a SMALL drop of oil in each end bearing. The brush holder plate should be sandblasted or wire brushed clean of corrosion, the brushes need to be long enough not to be close to “bottomed out” against the holder. Brushes and brush springs need to move freely, not jam. A couple of small screw drivers or similar tools will aid in holding the brushes out while sliding the brush end cap on. The carbon brushes chip easily, be gentle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
it's like this pic, somebody submitted weeks ago, only maybe 50-75% as bad. i see silver metal thru the rust on about half of it.

208930
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
when i google 'dryrub paper' it comes up empty. is that an arcane term unknown to google for sandpaper?
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Well, rats. I'm sure not much as a mechanic. I sanded all the corrosion away. The gear spins easily now. I reassembled and tested w jumper and car battery: just sparks. Not a hint of wanting to turn. I clamped the neg to the body of the starter. positive to the nut on the stud the wire attaches to.
 

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Clamp the neg to the rear case where the bolts that hold the starter motor to the engine go. The front end has no internal ground path and the case is painted.

Did you clean the three ground tangs on the brush plate and their contacts to the rear case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
i didn't clean but i looked at them. seemed clean. ...seems like some sort of action would have come thru. but it's a total fail. i clamped to the rear case, one of the long screws and somewhere else. i just get a big zap spark. i've actually done quite a bit of wrenching on vehicles. not much electro stuff tho. all my other projects have gone smoothly over the years. this is a total fail out of the gate. i'm inclined to do what my pal suggests: get some sort of nifty running bike and put any sweat effort toward keeping it running. i like the concept of the cx500 but really i'll probably just go w something local w a reliable rep. ...someone said they had a cx500 that ran for like 1200 a few hours away. hmmm... it might make sense to go newer. i need reliability most. i want a mid-size. but 1990 or newer might be more what i should do...
 

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Did the brushes look good, long enough and did you clean the commutator (not with abrasive paper!). Did you get the brushes fitting properly when you put the starter back together? By the way, when testing a starter out of the bike like this it will spark as you make the last connection but if you maintain the connection the starter should turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
brushes seemed fine. the commutator is the smaller diameter front-end of the heavy thing that goes inside the case? i saw a diagram that pointed there but no idea if the pointer meant the whole object or that portion of the object. anyway, the smaller end that the brushes contact looked clean. the spark was basically a "frustrated explosion" sort of spark, exactly like it was when the starter was in the bike and when i first tried it on the starter outside the bike before i removed the corrosion. thus: no change. problem not where i thought it was. beyond my brief. if there had been any usual sign of life, i would've been encouraged. i'm guessing really a basic issue here that i don't know about but that a mechanic might. i suppose i could run it past my brother who is a good wrench -- he might see the issue instantly.

anyway, does anyone know of a midsize moto w shaft drive, liquid cool, very reliable -- let's go for fuel injection, why not. that i could buy used, a bit rough, for thrifty price.

in the late 80's i had a 1980 Yamaha 650 special that was finicky but that i could make run well enough for an outing. a satisfying bike that sounded and handled good. rightsized tho i suppose small for me as a 6-footer but i haven't heard of motos solving the actual ergo challenge with any direct sensibleness. i would've enjoyed making it a bit more reliable but moved and sold it for $100. bought it for $200 from a pal. ...so a couple/few thousand US$ is my world. i think that era of moto was known to be electro finicky and that maybe bikes newer than 2000 have that sorted better. ??
 

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This might help you understand what you are working on
 

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It's too bad you're not closer.
Even with the distance, I could send you a starter. I'm sure I have a spare or two.
 
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