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My comment about polarity isn't critical for a detached starter, but reversed polarity can be destructive if connected to the bike's electric system. Generally RED is positive, BLACK is negative and here and there NEGATIVE is connected to the bike frame. If you disassemble the starter (simple enough usually), keep track of the spacer washers/shims on each end of the rotor/armature (rotating part) shaft. If you replace them as they were you should not have end play or position problems. It would seem that corrosion inside the starter is likely. R&R on starters is covered in several posts/sources. If you seek a replacement used starter $50 should be the MAX price. If bought from a member here you can have a high degree of confidence it will be what they say it is. Buy a 500cc starter if you can determine this, 650cc starters have had a harder life. Avoid CX Turbo starters, even though they will bolt on, they are problematic. So if the engine turns over smoothly, get a working starter on it, jumper from a car battery and see if it gets spark when you turn it over! If not, we'll start another diagnostic quest.

If however, you're not in it for the long haul, you may be right, it's not for you. A decent running "daily runner" CX/GL with some "aesthetic challenges" should be able to be had for under $1,000.
 

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Generally RED is positive, BLACK is negative
Our Honda motorcycles are an exception to that , where GREEN is negative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
That doesn't sound good. Soak the two long screws which hold the starter together wit a good penetrating oil such as PB Blaster and let sit for a day then see if you can take the starter apart.
I got the 2 long screws off easily. This exposed the back of the starter. 4 other big screws into the body aren't budging.
 

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I got the 2 long screws off easily. This exposed the back of the starter. 4 other big screws into the body aren't budging.
Good, you are making progress. The four screws into the body do not need to be removed. They hold the coils in place. The body of the starter should pull off away from the front piece (gear end) of the starter.
Have you a copy of the factory service manual? If not download one from the wiki (link to the wiki in my signature)
 

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If however, you're not in it for the long haul, you may be right, it's not for you. A decent running "daily runner" CX/GL with some "aesthetic challenges" should be able to be had for under $1,000.
It seems that number can be different depending on your location and if you happen to be at the right place at the right time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
what about that photo of the rusty big piece inside the starter that somebody posted just up there a ways? do i need to take apart my starter to that point to have a good look? ...if so, i don't seem to be able to get there from just removing the 2 long screws. those came out easily. the end cap came off easily. I see the connector wires and the 3 ground tabs. I don't see burn marks where the grounds hit the cap. but there's some dirt and corrosion inside that cap. ... I have NOT been able to just "pull off" the other end from the main body shell. I looked at the Aussie how-to info and it says both ends should just pull off after the 2 main screws are off... hmmm... i'm still tugging. maybe more PB Blaster? (I'm looking at this link: A closer look at the starter motor 31200-449-008 - Honda CX500, GL500, CX650, GL650, CX400, GL400)
 

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Use yer teef .... :p

It will be the same corrosion that prevents the motor from spinning that is preventing the armature from being withdrawn from the case.

Use lots of penetrant and patience.
 

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The subject of my color references was jumping the bike from an auto (battery) and the importance of not connecting reverse polarity. In all aspects of that endeavor RED is positive and BLACK is negative. The positive bike battery cable has a red cap, the jumper cables are RED positive and the auto will show RED for positive. This is universal AFAIK in the modern post 1950 world?
I see where it can be confusing when you work on the wire harness/loom and colors are different, but my info was to prevent a reverse polarity in a jumpstart situation. DC voltage, reverse polarity and electronics are often a bad mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
yes black and red.

i used a piece of wood and whacked the innards out of the shell. they are as rusty as in that photo above. so do i just clean that all up? then put it back together and see what happens when i jumper it again? oh, 3 washers came off the end by the terminals: 1 thick and 2 thin. is it impt what order they go back on? ...i kinda think it was 2 thin against the main stuff and the thick one on top of them.
 

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Can you now turn the starter gear?
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
it's like a pepper mill! rust keeps falling out of the bottom. hard to turn. should i use some steel wool or sandpaper on all that rust?
 

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Can you put up pictures?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
guess i could but... it looks like the one above. rusty. ...or are there finer details to notice? ...is there a main way i should go about removing corrosion?
 

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Depends where the corrosion is. Right now you should be looking for what is keeping the gear from turning smoothly and easily. You might try some PB Blaster or similar on the shaft where it passes through the end plate, both on the gear side and the other side.

If you can't get it to turn smoothly you may be better off to buy another starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
good way to remove corrosion like in the photo above? ...a dozen or so comments above someone showed their corroded "main part" of starter. that's what i have. how to remove that rust. then i think it will turn nice. can i sand it off? steel wool? dont wanna hurt it.
 
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