Any Good Honda CX repair shops in Maryland?

246 Views 11 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Randall-in-Mpls, 6 d ago

jagvager

Discussion Starter · 9 d ago

I own a 1980 CX500D and need some minor work done , carbs cleaned,tune up .radiator flush etc. I've owned it since new , but it's been sitting in the basement for 3 years now . Needs new tires as well. The front tire is the original and the back is 20+ years old. 12k miles on the bike. I want to take it to a place that knows older bikes. It's time to leave the 66 Mustang convt. in the garage more and bring the Honda back to the streets this summer .Thanks for any help on this. Jay G

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Newt

· #2 · 8 d ago

You are likely hunting for a Unicorn.

Most mechanics do not have the skills, experience or tools to work on vehicles more than 10 years old.

The work you describe is within DIY capability. The only task that poses a problem are the tires.

Carbs are easily cleaned following Larry's carb book. Or there are members who will do the carb cleaning. Tune up is simple by following the FSM (Factory Service Manual), downloadable from numerous member links on this site or the WIKI.

Good Luck with your Quest or endevour to DIY.

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jagvager

Discussion Starter · #3 · 8 d ago

Thanks Newt. I'm sure I can do all the service items. I do have the service manual that was purchased when the bike was new. Can most bike places do the tires on this type of bike with a shaft drive? Personally , I would like, if possible, to deal with a local forum member who knows these bikes. Thanks for your response. Jay G

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reclinedrelic

· #4 · 8 d ago

Most motorcycle shops can change the tires, however it is best if you remove the wheels from the bike yourself.

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Randall-in-Mpls

· #5 · 7 d ago

And verify proper rotation direction when you pick them up. Some shaft-drive bikes have the shaft on the left.

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jagvager

Discussion Starter · #6 · 7 d ago

Thanks Randall. Will do!

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Newt

· #7 · 7 d ago

Yes, pull the wheels off the bike. Otherwise the shop will attach additional charges to remove the wheels.

Use some painters tape on the wheel to indicate rotation direction. I would place tape on both sides of wheel before taking them to the shop and point out the tape to the mechanics. Definitely request the wheel is dynamic balanced.

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jagvager

Discussion Starter · #8 · 7 d ago

Good idea. Thanks . I've never had the need to pull the wheels off, is it tricky? The front should be straight forward, but the back i'm not so sure of with the drive shaft. Will there be fluid leaking when I disconnect it? Any tips I should know? Alignment and balancing issues etc..? Thanks. Jay G

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Newt

· #9 · 6 d ago

Follow the service manual that you mentioned for both wheels. The front has a trapping bolt that needs to be removed. The rear has a special nut, IIRC.

Take your time.

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jagvager

Discussion Starter · #10 · 6 d ago

Hey, thanks for your advice! Much appreciated. Jay G

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Randall-in-Mpls

· #11 · 6 d ago (Edited)

Newt said:
The front has a trapping bolt that needs to be removed.

Your '81 Custom does. His '80 Deluxe is different.

Jay, to remove the front axle, you'll need to remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut on the left side. Then loosen the two clamp bolts (nuts?) at the end of the right fork.
When refitting the front wheel, be careful to align the keyed ring in the speedometer drive.
The rear should be the same as Newt's '81 Custom. Remove the cotter pin and axle nut on the right side. Loosen or remove the pinch bolt at the left end of the swing arm. Disconnect the brake lever rod and brake plate stay. Drive out the axle.
You'll probably need to loosen the three nuts attaching the final drive to the swing arm to get the wheel out. I find it easiest to remove them completely and remove the wheel, brake plate, and final drive as a unit.
There will be some messy grease on the driveshaft remaining in the swing arm, as well as on the splined shaft at the front of the final drive. Gear oil will leak from the final drive's vent if it's inverted, so keep it more or less upright.
On reassembly, be sure to clean and grease the splines in both the wheel hub and the final drive, per the FSM. Inspect, and possibly replace, the two o-rings associated with this connection.
To assure proper alignment of the drive splines, there's a specific sequence, not found in the manual, in which fasteners should be tightened. It comes from a Goldwing service bulletin, but is perfectly applicable here.
With everything fitted loosely and the brake plate stay and brake lever rod restored, tighten to spec the final drive nuts, the pinch bolt, then the axle nut.

How to install the rear wheel on a Honda CX500 (Swedish Method)

The so-called Swedish Method is a way of installing the rear wheel on a Honda CX500 in such a way that you increase your chances of having the final drive flange mate with the final drive hub properly. Check it out here!

motofaction.org

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Randall-in-Mpls

· #12 · 6 d ago

Newt said:
Use some painters tape on the wheel to indicate rotation direction. I would place tape on both sides of wheel before taking them to the shop and point out the tape to the mechanics.

That's a good idea.

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