[guzzijohn]

Hi, long time reader, first time poster. I am just getting to know my gl, and i've concluded several things, mainly that it needs alot of TLC. for starts, i've decided my 30 y/o air ride is done. have been reading posts and weighing options. rebuolding would work, but seems to me it's designed to fail. the hagon shocks are a nice, easy, complete, expensive solution. i've read of several people trying to use/mod&use other models' monoshocks. most people seem to end with of a resolve that a 650 or 750's shock that's designed for a curb weight of 450-475 lb bike just can't handle a bike that's just shy of 500lb naked, and 550 dressed (which would be the case with mine. so i started thinking bigger. a kawasaki kz1100 has a curb weight of 560, or the zx1100 with a curb weight of 590lb. i found this monoshock on ebay. it appears to have the same mounting characteristics as the gl, but from the pic, i don't know free length, diameter of mounting holes, etc. 1, does anyone have any input on this? i called up my local cycle therapy and he's got a few of these in stock, so i'm going down monday to investigate. if nothing else, (since i haven't pulled my toasted shock off yet) can somebody refresh my mind on the specs i'm going to need to know? and in return i will share what i learn...

I was sure the xvs1100 would work for me as it was meant for a 600# cruiser w shaft drive. That solved the unsprung weight issue that many others have found w chain drive shocks. Cruisers are generally softly sprung for Hogly minded 'Easy Chair' riders. that being the case I figured the shock would work well as I wanted a stiffer sporting suspension. With Progressive springs I have a very nice handling yet comfortable bike as I weigh upwards of 250# w gear. If you'd rather stay stock my nice 11.2k shock is for sale.GJ

 

[guzzijohn]

The 650 is also 11.5". I cut the clevis ears off and added 1.25" angle to get proper 2" clevis width. You could possibly sacrifice the GL shock and swap the end(or make a copy of it) needed onto the 1100 shock. That would allow the original bolt through tube setup. If you could find the right size tube/pipe the 1100 clevis holes could be reamed to fit and the piece welded in giving a stock attachment.GJ

 

[guzzijohn]

gz, the last option you mention is what has been on my mind, since i realized my 500/650 fo-pa...i wasn't sure of the necessity of both bushings...but a proper length tube with the cleavis reamed for fit seems to be the easiest way to center all up...at leas in my mind...any known issues with the top mount? impatiently waiting for my substitute to come in so i can start my wrenching...

shock eye needs to be bushed down as there's simple no way to ream the frame holes for larger bolt.GJ

 

[guzzijohn]

follow up...i got thw shock back last night, with top bushing sleeved to 10mm, and bottom clevis cut off and converted to an eye (with the help of the delrin bushing) i put the bike back together between rain drops, and in my opinion, this was a successful swap. the bike has a nice ride height (about what i had with a full air shock) and if i had to define the ride, i would say it's a little on the stiff side, but not completely harsh. the preload is set at 3 as when i got it...i'm thinking changing it to 2 might make it down right nice, but haven't had the wife out yet to see what it'll be like with another 120lbs on it...but due to the fact that i don't have tools to adjust the preload, i'm thinking 3 will be just fine...considering i've got less than half the cost of a hagon tied up in this, i'm happy with it, and would reccomend the modded xvs1100 shock to someone in the pro-link dilima

Glad you got it in. I'd agree on stiff/not harsh-I prefer taught vs soft.I haven't touched the preload-I weigh about 250# suited up. The progressive springs seem stiffer than the shock but feeling through the bars vs padded seat are probably why. I got the cards finally sorted with much help from Tom at the Anoka Cycleshop-it idles smoothly at 800 rpm. I may play w shock preload(never even looked at where it is set)but I've hit some nasty bumps and have been pleasantly surprised by the suspension's compliance.GJ

 

[guzzijohn]

i've played hell with my carbs and idle...i ran fresh grounds from the bad to the two ground points on the frame...that helped things considerably...while it was down i decided to re-do the leaking o-ring on the rad return pipe...and got it properly burped...i haven't gotten to ride it much since, but i get the feeling it was running hot...the little i have ridden, it seems better in the over all running/idle department...this even with the k&n air filter...bikes are relatively new to me, but with the service manual courtesy of google docs, i think i've got a hell of a learner bike...until this year, cars have meen my thing...mainly my '72 cutlass...crash course toyota mechanic...this winter i want to pull the bike apart to the frame and start cleaning and painting, do some over due maintnance such as timing chain and stator...

After replacing the starter clutch I discovered the plug caps were damaged-removing the rubber end on the one that was audibly arcing a chunk fell off! The other one had tape holding 2 chunks in place. I glued the bits back in place,added the rubber ends and coated the whole units with 'Dip It' the same plastic tool handle coating I've used on cracked intake boots. After an initial cleaning the bike ran but was terrible just off idle and would die unless throttled a bit at stops. Saturday I pulled them again and brought them to Tom's shop and he promptly showed me that the idle jet and its holder were indeed 2 items! So much for the drawing in Clymer which doesn't show them as they really look! Tom has a secret chemical that strips the brass bits of all contaminates-nothing should be anywhere in a cleaned carb!! My eyesight isn't so good anymore and if the hole shows light it must be clear-NOT! With the nasty coating of whatever removed the interior of the orifices reflect light brightly. Tom's thorough cleaning methods allow my engine to tick over smoothly at 800RPM! No more popping,banging,or dying.GJ