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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, long time reader, first time poster. I am just getting to know my gl, and i've concluded several things, mainly that it needs alot of TLC. for starts, i've decided my 30 y/o air ride is done. have been reading posts and weighing options. rebuolding would work, but seems to me it's designed to fail. the hagon shocks are a nice, easy, complete, expensive solution. i've read of several people trying to use/mod&use other models' monoshocks. most people seem to end with of a resolve that a 650 or 750's shock that's designed for a curb weight of 450-475 lb bike just can't handle a bike that's just shy of 500lb naked, and 550 dressed (which would be the case with mine. so i started thinking bigger. a kawasaki kz1100 has a curb weight of 560, or the zx1100 with a curb weight of 590lb. i found this monoshock on ebay. it appears to have the same mounting characteristics as the gl, but from the pic, i don't know free length, diameter of mounting holes, etc. 1, does anyone have any input on this? i called up my local cycle therapy and he's got a few of these in stock, so i'm going down monday to investigate. if nothing else, (since i haven't pulled my toasted shock off yet) can somebody refresh my mind on the specs i'm going to need to know? and in return i will share what i learn...
 

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Hi, long time reader, first time poster. I am just getting to know my gl, and i've concluded several things, mainly that it needs alot of TLC. for starts, i've decided my 30 y/o air ride is done. have been reading posts and weighing options. rebuolding would work, but seems to me it's designed to fail. the hagon shocks are a nice, easy, complete, expensive solution. i've read of several people trying to use/mod&use other models' monoshocks. most people seem to end with of a resolve that a 650 or 750's shock that's designed for a curb weight of 450-475 lb bike just can't handle a bike that's just shy of 500lb naked, and 550 dressed (which would be the case with mine. so i started thinking bigger. a kawasaki kz1100 has a curb weight of 560, or the zx1100 with a curb weight of 590lb. i found this monoshock on ebay. it appears to have the same mounting characteristics as the gl, but from the pic, i don't know free length, diameter of mounting holes, etc. 1, does anyone have any input on this? i called up my local cycle therapy and he's got a few of these in stock, so i'm going down monday to investigate. if nothing else, (since i haven't pulled my toasted shock off yet) can somebody refresh my mind on the specs i'm going to need to know? and in return i will share what i learn...
I was sure the xvs1100 would work for me as it was meant for a 600# cruiser w shaft drive. That solved the unsprung weight issue that many others have found w chain drive shocks. Cruisers are generally softly sprung for Hogly minded 'Easy Chair' riders. that being the case I figured the shock would work well as I wanted a stiffer sporting suspension. With Progressive springs I have a very nice handling yet comfortable bike as I weigh upwards of 250# w gear. If you'd rather stay stock my nice 11.2k shock is for sale.GJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
suspension-wise, my dreams are far from stock...it sounds like an awful ordeal to service the stocker, and i[m in it for reliability...also something the stocker is not...i'm teedering though. that hagon setup eould be a guaranteed fit the first time...and i could swing the cost, but just barely...i'm not against doing fab work to another option, if i know what i'm up against. the cleavis on the xvs shock has to be widened? by how much? my question still stands about the kz or zx shocks...i pulled up an xvs shock on 'bay and it seems the kz/zx cleavis is wider...i just don't know about length on them yet...
 

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suspension-wise, my dreams are far from stock...it sounds like an awful ordeal to service the stocker, and i[m in it for reliability...also something the stocker is not...i'm teedering though. that hagon setup eould be a guaranteed fit the first time...and i could swing the cost, but just barely...i'm not against doing fab work to another option, if i know what i'm up against. the cleavis on the xvs shock has to be widened? by how much? my question still stands about the kz or zx shocks...i pulled up an xvs shock on 'bay and it seems the kz/zx cleavis is wider...i just don't know about length on them yet...
I would definitely go with the Hagon or try and find a sub, but it's not the worst thing ever to rebuild the stock one, I seem to have to work twice as hard to be half as good at some of this stuff, if you decide to try it feel free to ask questions. Finding the seal and getting the spring assembly out of the can to shim it (you don't have to do that just to change the seal) are the toughest parts. Takes a good press set up. Just don't expect a lot of bang for the buck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i just found/ordered the xvs1100 shock off of the 'bay...i had already pretty well decided once i pulled the stocker, it wasn't going back on...i am about upgrades...especially when it's about ride quality/safety...if hagon was my only alternative i would bite the bullet, but it sounds as if a properly worked xvs1100 shock will provide an acceptable, decent ride...allowing for cargo and a rider...i can't wait for it to come in so i can pull out the air and put on some new technology...however if someone can tell me in advance how much the yamaha's shock's clevis needs to be widened to work, i'd prefer to make my mods to the replacement before i pull the stock off (i can ride while i wait and work lol)
 

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"Shocks" are two parts really, the damper, and the spring. I would buy the damper and not worry about the spring until I got the the correct fittings and stroke length. I just weighed my bike (CX500) and it came out at 423# total, and 213# front and 210# rear that 50.8% front and 49.2# rear. Now that I know just what the spring has to carry I can buy the proper Spring rate. To find out what your OEM GL spring is call a professional suspension company, someone like Race Tech or FOX, or Lindeman Engineering. They know all the rates and sell the right stuff. With my CX 500 of course I have twin shocks but it's still the same procedure, the damping should match the springing at least the best you can get for your budget.

Cheers, 50gary
 

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however if someone can tell me in advance how much the yamaha's shock's clevis needs to be widened to work, i'd prefer to make my mods to the replacement before i pull the stock off
If this is a GL500, rather than the 650, the clevis is on the linkage, not on the shock. To mount a shock with a clevis, you'll need to find or cut appropriate-length collars to keep it centered. You may also want to sleeve it, so it doesn't wear on the bolt. The bracket on the linkage will be wider than the clevis on the shock.



And both mounts use a 10mm bolt, unless I'm mistaken.





R
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
good call and miss on my part...but not a total loss...yet...length wise, are the 650 and 500 the same length shock? now I'm picturing getting a new shock bushing and matching some steel tube to fit the bushing into and welding that to my coming shock...
 

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The 650 is also 11.5". I cut the clevis ears off and added 1.25" angle to get proper 2" clevis width. You could possibly sacrifice the GL shock and swap the end(or make a copy of it) needed onto the 1100 shock. That would allow the original bolt through tube setup. If you could find the right size tube/pipe the 1100 clevis holes could be reamed to fit and the piece welded in giving a stock attachment.GJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
gz, the last option you mention is what has been on my mind, since i realized my 500/650 fo-pa...i wasn't sure of the necessity of both bushings...but a proper length tube with the cleavis reamed for fit seems to be the easiest way to center all up...at leas in my mind...any known issues with the top mount? impatiently waiting for my substitute to come in so i can start my wrenching...
 

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gz, the last option you mention is what has been on my mind, since i realized my 500/650 fo-pa...i wasn't sure of the necessity of both bushings...but a proper length tube with the cleavis reamed for fit seems to be the easiest way to center all up...at leas in my mind...any known issues with the top mount? impatiently waiting for my substitute to come in so i can start my wrenching...
shock eye needs to be bushed down as there's simple no way to ream the frame holes for larger bolt.GJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
how much are we talking there? thoughts/suggestions for that process?
 

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...i wasn't sure of the necessity of both bushings...
The double bushing allows the bolt to be properly tightened. The inner bushing is slightly longer than the outer and becomes fixed to the clevis. Using a single bushing, you'd need to leave the bolt slack to avoid binding the joint.





R
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
gz, the last option you mention is what has been on my mind, since i realized my 500/650 fo-pa...i wasn't sure of the necessity of both bushings...but a proper length tube with the cleavis reamed for fit seems to be the easiest way to center all up...at leas in my mind...any known issues with the top mount? impatiently waiting for my substitute to come in so i can start my wrenching...


got my shock today, took to the machine shop...he is going to make my sleeve for my top mount...and strongly urges me to locate a bushing and convert from clevis to eve...the stock lower shock bushing is discontinued...does anybody have any thoughts on a substitute bushing i may be able to get my hands on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
...ok...think i've solved my bushing dilema...searched for gl bushings, no luck...searched ready made bushings by size...then the duh moment hit...mcmaster-carr...i picked up a delrin bushing rod 1/2" id x 3/4" od...all is at the machine shop, and they are going to fab my lower eye...i ask them to leave a provision for a grease fitting...now all i can do is wait for the call to pick it up, put it back together, test it out, and let you all know what i think...patience is a virtue and let me tell you...impatiently waiting...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
follow up...i got thw shock back last night, with top bushing sleeved to 10mm, and bottom clevis cut off and converted to an eye (with the help of the delrin bushing) i put the bike back together between rain drops, and in my opinion, this was a successful swap. the bike has a nice ride height (about what i had with a full air shock) and if i had to define the ride, i would say it's a little on the stiff side, but not completely harsh. the preload is set at 3 as when i got it...i'm thinking changing it to 2 might make it down right nice, but haven't had the wife out yet to see what it'll be like with another 120lbs on it...but due to the fact that i don't have tools to adjust the preload, i'm thinking 3 will be just fine...considering i've got less than half the cost of a hagon tied up in this, i'm happy with it, and would reccomend the modded xvs1100 shock to someone in the pro-link dilima
 

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follow up...i got thw shock back last night, with top bushing sleeved to 10mm, and bottom clevis cut off and converted to an eye (with the help of the delrin bushing) i put the bike back together between rain drops, and in my opinion, this was a successful swap. the bike has a nice ride height (about what i had with a full air shock) and if i had to define the ride, i would say it's a little on the stiff side, but not completely harsh. the preload is set at 3 as when i got it...i'm thinking changing it to 2 might make it down right nice, but haven't had the wife out yet to see what it'll be like with another 120lbs on it...but due to the fact that i don't have tools to adjust the preload, i'm thinking 3 will be just fine...considering i've got less than half the cost of a hagon tied up in this, i'm happy with it, and would reccomend the modded xvs1100 shock to someone in the pro-link dilima
Glad you got it in. I'd agree on stiff/not harsh-I prefer taught vs soft.I haven't touched the preload-I weigh about 250# suited up. The progressive springs seem stiffer than the shock but feeling through the bars vs padded seat are probably why. I got the cards finally sorted with much help from Tom at the Anoka Cycleshop-it idles smoothly at 800 rpm. I may play w shock preload(never even looked at where it is set)but I've hit some nasty bumps and have been pleasantly surprised by the suspension's compliance.GJ
 
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