[JWink]

A while back I purchased a 1980 CX500 Deluxe that didn't run. PO said it ran but it had sat for a few years. He decided to try and get it running but only wanted to spend 100 bucks to do so. Long story short he never got it done. I pick it up for 250 bucks and I can't figure out what the hell is wrong with it. Everything seems right, it feels like it wants to run but acts like the timing is off. Well what had happened is, he told me this but I had forgotten, he had pulled the coils off the bike at one point in time and and put them back on the wrong sides. So all I had to do was swap the two wires going to the coils and it started up.



So I feel like I got a good deal. Not the best looker but for 250 and my first bike, I wasn't complaining. I rode it for a few months up until it snowed. So there she sat for about a month until I decided to break into her.



The carbs are getting rebuilt with the help of Larry's book. I want to paint the engine and I decided while that was it was out to replace the water pump seal as well. I don't know if its leaking, if it is it is very slight. That being the case would it be okay to do the quick method or should I just replace the whole thing whiles it is out?



I have been reading up on it and it seems most people suggest checking the cam chain while it is out as well. How do you tell if its good or bad?



I read something once before about checking the oil pump or something like that, I can't remember what it was. Any idea of what that might be?







I hope to change a few things up on it during the off season but if all else fails I at least want to get these few things done. If anyone has any other things I should give attention to while the engine is out please let me know.



And I know how everyone likes pictures so here ya go.

 

[nippongreen]

Mr J,

Well you found yourself a "good buy" for $250.00

I am 'SLOWLY" doing my 1st "Triple Bypass" and things are going slow but ok

I was recommended to change the oil chain and also to clean out the oil strainer (good decision)

I ordered most of my parts from David Silvers in the UK and a few parts from CMSNL in Holland, with good results

I replaced the mechanical seal with a "Davey Seal" which i obtained through the Honda CX/GL UK mcc in England.

Which i found out later is a 28mm seal (used on later CX/GL models) but the Deluxe being 27mm

(you can lap out the orrifice to 28mm with the dremel tool #504)

But i decided to take the harder way of fitting it directly into the 27mm hole, yes it can be done

Here are the pics of my progress to date, feel free to look around

http://s251.photobucket.com/albums/gg302/nippongreen/Bessie%20Triple%20Bypass%202010-2011/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ16



All The best..............Keith........

..............

 

[marshallf3]

Shep's method works best on the mech seal and be sure to spend the $7 or so to pick up a shifter seal and clutch rod seal - TAS has both with free shipping.

 

[achille]

Mr J,



.............................................................................................28mm seal (used on later CX/GL models) but the Deluxe being 27mm



All The best..............Keith........

..............

Excuse me but lets clear this up if possible.



An ' 80 model, Deluxe or otherwise, rear cover, would be of the 28mm size .



No?



nippongreen, what year is your engine?



Thanks.

 

[Blindstitch]

I think the 82 may be where it starts. I think wisconsincx had a 81 and went through 3 seals/cups before he got it right. It's only 1mm but it's a really tight fit. That's where the flapper wheel and digital caliper come in handy.

 

[achille]

I think the 82 may be where it starts. I think wisconsincx had a 81 and went through 3 seals/cups before he got it right. It's only 1mm but it's a really tight fit. That's where the flapper wheel and digital caliper come in handy.

Yes, I was just looking at this thread.



http://cx500forum.co...seal-oemyamaha/

 

[CXPHREAK]

One way of checking how much wear your camchain has left after pulling the rear engine cover is to check where the slot around the adjusting bolt is. Nippongreen's photo 6 shows some adjustment left above the adjuster bolt,- this chain still has some adjustment left and is still usable.

In photo 39 the slot is all below the adjustment bolt so there is no adjustment left. Obviously this one also has a broken slipper blade but that's the basic check.

Removing the adjuster plate for a visual inspection of all parts should still be carried out.

Also, I THINK Blindstitch is correct re the larger mech seal aperture being introduced in 82. While I'm still not sure of this I am beginning to think it may be as simple as CDI = 27mm and TAI = 28mm

 

[Dash]

Jwink - are you planning on painting your motor in the stock color? Several members of this forum had the courage to paint their motor some other color and in my opinion, the results were fantastic. Either way, I think these are great looking motors.



Nippongreen, thanks for the great photos. What year is your motorcycle? Put that and the model in your signature line.

 

[nippongreen]

OOPS, sorry folks

I'll update ASAP

My present bikes are: 1979 CX500 Deluxe "Bessie" (Triple bypass underway)

1982 GL500i "Scruffy" (needs cosmetic work)

2001 ST1100 "Cody" (Just a CX with more GRUNT really

)

Merry Christmas.........

............

 

[JWink]

Thanks for the responses guys. I skimmed them, ill read everything all the way through tomorrow.



Started the day at 6 AM working retail and then a christmas party with the family, its 11 PM now. It is time for some sleep.



Merry Christmas (or happy holidays) to all and thanks again

 

[JWink]

Dash I planned on painting the engine black but I haven't completely made my mind up yet.



Can't wait to tear into it. I'll have to do a bit more reading on the cam chain.



I had planned on doing the shifter seal, i'll pick up a clutch rod seal as well.



thanks guys, I guess it's time to get some parts on order

 

[marshallf3]

If you were thinking of going black consider the Duplicolor Cast Coat Iron 500* ceramic engine paint, it's kind of black with a tiny bit of gray and silver flash hidden in it. Certainly worth buying a can and testing it out on something as there's no way to really describe nor illustrate the color, even the color cap of the can doesn't do it justice.

 

[Shep]

You will get all the help you need along the way from the Free 24/7/365 CX/GL online service departments e.g this and other forums<grin>.



And just so you know,your bike is in way better condition than some that have been brought back from the dead

http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/SilverWing/GL500_SilverWing_Black_SunFlower.htm

 

[DaveF]

...Also, I THINK Blindstitch is correct re the larger mech seal aperture being introduced in 82. While I'm still not sure of this I am beginning to think it may be as simple as CDI = 27mm and TAI = 28mm

No, I've seen 81 GL500 engines (TAI) with the smaller aperture.

 

[ramprat06]

You will get all the help you need along the way from the Free 24/7/365 CX/GL online service departments e.g this and other forums<grin>.



And just so you know,your bike is in way better condition than some that have been brought back from the dead

http://www.pdsrecord...k_SunFlower.htm

Talk about inspirational~~!!!!!!

 

[JWink]

That thing looks in pretty rough shape. Looks like I have it easy compared to that.



Where do most people buy the water pump seal? Dealerships?



I saw a few on ebay like this one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOND...torcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_684wt_1167





And I know most people on here are fond of georgefix. Would something like that work?