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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, the guy sold it to me saying the stator needs to be replaced or Timed. ~~~~~~~~~(Can you Time your stator?)~~~~~~~~~ ?????



Did the carbs did everything, It backfires some, and it idles at around 4-5k then drops to normal Idle (I assume around 1-2k) and goes back to 4-5k



What would be the cause of this? i dont have a manual or know anything about these bikes except what you all have helped me with, where is the Idle adjustments and all that stuff, what would be the causes of backfire?
 

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For the manual, and a bunch of good info, go to THIS POST , at the bottom of the first post you will find a link to free manual downloads in 'stichs sig line.



Sounds like you may have an air leak somewhere, but you have to start with the basics. Once you download the manual(s) and read through you'll see that most things are pretty straightforward and simple on a CX.



The guy who sold it to you is clueless, I wouldn't listen to anything he has to say, or trust anything he's worked on either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
He was a classic car restoration and racing mechanic, and he put a brand new stator in, but that seems to be working since it starts and all that.



Air leak? what do you mean by that? ALSO When i rev the accellerator the rpms SLOWLY go back down to Idle about 5 seconds



I redid/Remade eveyrthing on this bike but this is stumpin me



More help please? =]



THANKS FOR THE MANUAL!!
 

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Air leaks mean, air getting where it shouldn't be. The key problem areas are the boots between the carb and engine, and the airbox where the air filter is and the carbs.



The General Discussion section of this board has a thread called QUICK REFERENCE, and it is the best point to look for things.



We can help, but starting a bunch of posts won't help. Try to keep it to one post until we can sort out the various problems you face.

Sorry if I sound curt and abrupt, but patience is called for when troubleshooting.



Joel in the Couve
 

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Air leak? what do you mean by that? ALSO When i rev the accellerator the rpms SLOWLY go back down to Idle about 5 seconds


An air leak is when there is air being drawn into the engine between the carbs and the heads. It could be a missing oring on the intakes where they attach to the heads or where the carbs attach to the rubber parts of the intakes. It could also be in the carbs themselves.



You can check for air leaks by spraying carb cleaner or some kind of aerosol around the intake tracts and the carbs,,if the idle changes,,then that is where the leak is.



The slow return to idle you describe is a classic symptom of an air leak.



edit; Ramprat beat me to it,,,



Ramprat,,I do not think he has any air box to connect to..



edt 2; Where are you located,,you never know, there may be someone near you that might be able to help you in person.
 

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Thanks Allan, I remember that now. Allans advice is spot on to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok im going to check the carb again and all that , i Taped up those intake ports i have and it runs WAY better thats how i got it running, now its shooting gas out the muffler on the left, so i assume i adjust the FLoat wayto much going to put it back to normal tonight actually right now. I Live in SaN Diego California I know a guy that can help me im going to give it to him to tune up and make perfect but i want to get it close by myself to keep cost low



When i took the carbs apart i found all the jets were closed and gaslines sealed by Green Goo for lack of a better word it was sticking the float shut



but i got it running thanks to you guys, thats more than the guy i bought it from ever did
 

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Instead of tape, either replace the air horns or you can fit a bicycle inner tube over them to seal them. Some have reported success sealing with goop sealer too.



Just because the guy who sold it may be good at other things, doesn't mean he knows squat about motorcycles or CX's in particular. I know certified dealer motorcycle techs I wouldn't trust with a CX, not for lack of talent, but for lack of any specific knowledge about them.



I'd contemplate a complete carb rebuild using our resident carb guru Larry's book. (you can find his posts via the search or member profile) Better yet, get a set of his rebuilt (and very, very shinny) carbs and be done with them for the forseeable future. The man is an artist and master craftsman when it comes to CX/GL carbs.



The O-ring that goes between the air intake and head is an oddball size, wrong size or old o-rings will almost always leak if you try to re-use them.



Don't forget the gas on until you figure out why that cylinder is getting drown in gas! It can accumulate in the crank...not good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can you tell that Carburetor guy to Email me? or somthing? and its the left cylinder and i think i hav ethe problems fixed gonna see in the morning, Wish me luck!
 

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Hi Racer,

The details and proper workings of these bikes are not something that most general mechanics know about. Many have taken them to the local Honda shops with little or no success.

From what you have described with the green goo and all, it sounds like not only the carbs need to be completely rebuilt, but it's possible that the tank needs to be cleaned out too. Since the tank feeds the carbs, it's likely that's what has contributed to the downfall of the carbs with all it's plugged jets, passages, popping and back firing.



To answer the first question you asked, the idle adjustment speed screw if in between the two carbs nearest the left carb. It's got a black plastic knob on the end. Counter clockwise will lower the idle speed.



You say you went through the carbs and cleaned them out as well as adjusting the floats. There's a lot more to cleaning them out properly than just soaking them or spraying them out. When they are as bad as you have described there will be a lot more that needs to be done. The needles have spring loaded tips that need to be working freely as well as making sure the seats are clean and mating properly with the rubber tips of the needles to get the fuel level correct and not overflow.



There is also a low jet in the middle of the two main jets under a rubber plug that has an emulsion tube built into it. The hole in that jet is .018" small and doesn't take much of what you have described to plug it up. That jet controls the fuel delivery from idle to 5K.



OK, you have two choices. One is rebuild and clean the correctly yourself. I have a book out that outlines the entire process from start to finish. (Link in Blue below in my signature) It will include buying a few important tools like Micro drill bits and an ultra sonic cleaner to get them back to new performance. Many have had great success with following the advice in the book.

The second option is either to bring your bike up here to Sacramento and we can go through everything from front to back or you can send me the carbs and intake manifolds so I can rebuild them for you. The rebuild includes running them on my bike so I can balance them and road test them before I send them back to you.



I do have one question though. Do you NOT have the stock air cleaner box and the stock exhaust system? It's hard to tell in the avatar picture, but it does look like you have a modified system. That in itself will require a re jetting of the carbs.



By the way, I'm the carb guy you were asking for to email you.



Thanks Blind and Cobram for getting hold of me. Been busy fixing my goof up drop.
 

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goof up drop? as in the bike fell?


Yeah, Sinjins rebuild bike. It's posted in the Garage. Larry said he was on the mend though. So is the bike.
 
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