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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ADDED AN EDIT, THIS BIG CHUNK AT THE BEGINNING IS FOR REFERENCE ONLY AT THIS POINT. SCROLL DOWN TO THE EDIT FOR THE "REAL" POST/QUESTION.



I did a bit of searching, and did find a few threads on this, but none seemed to really have any straight answers. Quite a few contradicted each other. I also have a bit of a unique issue as well, so that can maybe be my excuse lol.



Alright, so unique issue first: I wrecked my bike last August, and the steering stop was pulled up hard enough to distort the very bottom of the head tube out a bit. I actually repacked my lower bearings when putting on a new front end in the days directly after the wreck, so it all held in well. We hammered the distortion and the steering stop back in, though the distortion really can't be hammered completely out. It's basically just the lip of the head tube directly under the steering stop sticking out further than it should. My uncle/mechanic who is helping me with the install says all it should effect is the dust seal, though I'm not too sure.



We already installed the top and bottom races. The top one is sticking out a bit, as I've heard is normal with the All Balls kits.



We determined that using a spacer for the cone that goes on the bottom of the steering stem was necessary to bring it within a millimeter of the original, though I'm reading a few posts saying that using the spacer will make the steering stem not go through the head tube far enough, thus not allowing the top nut to tighten. We also aren't completely sure of the order that they should go on the triple tree. I think that we're doing, from bottom to top, spacer, seal, bearing. I've seen pics of other setups, so I'm just not sure what should or should not be done, especially since I keep reading about how the dust seals can cause the triple tree to bind...which is not good.



As for the top, there is a leaflet in the packet saying to machine the spanner nut down a bit. I was unsure of the purpose of this at first, but I think it's so it'll sit flat on the cone? So, where's the dust seal for the top go, in this case? We think it isn't even needed, but are both unsure. If it is needed, then we also don't know where it should go either! The directions given with the bearings are so vague, and the how-to guides I keep reading are all so ambiguous.



Tomorrow we're going to finish up. These are our plans, which I'm inviting anyone to suggest we change. I'm only posting them because I know that it isn't possible that we're doing everything properly, and I really want some insight from the CX gurus to determine what I should or should not change.



In short, the plans are: Machine the spanner nut down, as the leaflet says. Install lower bearing on steering stem in order of: washer, dust seal, and then bearing. Install upper bearing, bearing in first, dust seal above it, and then the newly-machined spanner nut. Then after that just follow the service manual.



Thanks for any advice all, and if there's a thread answering all of my questions: Sorry. Using google and searching this site and the old choppercharles site gave me more questions than answers. I have to get my bike back together tomorrow, and have limited time to do so as I have work and class the following day so I'm posting this before doing any more googling.



EDIT



Finally found a post answering my question on choppercharles archives....sort of. It was for a GL500. I don't know how different it is compared to the 1980 CX500 Custom, at least there in the steering head anyhow. But it explained it in terms that I understood, so now I "get" how it's supposed to go. Now I'm still wondering if other CX'ers on Customs have had success doing it like this.



So, this is what I'm talking about: On steering stem, in this order, install smaller spacer, "best fitting" dust seal, then bearing itself. On top part, I'm still machining the spanner nut to trim the serrated edges (directions I read said it wasn't necessary, but I don't think it'll hurt anything if I do it either way) but not using a dust seal, as it isn't necessary on the top(should've known).



After that, just follow the manual...turn till snug, back off 1/8th of a turn, and then just play around with it until it feels right.



So, feedback to this is much appreciated. Please let me know before I screw something up tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Went in perfectly. Went just as planned. We tightened it, and it seemed as if the triple tree was binding a little bit, but after putting everything back together, it feels too loose! So in to tighten tomorrow.



Hopefully this helps anyone else out who was searching for what I was.



Small spacer, dust seal, bearing on steering stem. Then just machine down that spanner nut, or I think you can even put a washer in it, and you're good to go.
 

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Are they sealed bearings or tapered bearings? I just stripped the rest of the frame I'm going to rebuild my CX on, the races are really stuck in the tube, it seems easier to install these updated versions and just punch out the old races without having to worry about damaging them.



Instead of machining it, does it look like something that would install easily with a bearing press?



I am contemplating putting GL500I forks on the frame. This is all way down the road though, so plenty of time to think things out. I haven't even found a place to get the frame and parts powder coated yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I read a thread where putting a washer in the spanner nut helps, though it gives you less threads that you can adjust. Still should be enough to work though.



Pretty sure they're tapered bearings...if they were sealed then they'd be one piece with the races, right? I may be confusing things. I think that sealed bearings also don't require grease...these required tons of it.



My uncle and I used a press to put the bearings on the lower triple tree. Very creative how my uncle did it...put the triple tree in upside down, and had a block with a hole in it big enough for the stem but not for the bearing. So the press just pushed it straight down onto this until we had the bearing seated.



He has some sort of contraption that he used to put the races into the head. He didn't even know he had it until he was tasked with getting my bike out of his yard! Basically something you can tighten by threading a handle...I'm describing that horribly, and I'll take a pic of it tomorrow when my brain isn't completely and totally fried!



We got the old races out using a good ol' chisel and hammer.
 

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Thanks for the BTDT info, nothing beats experience.



I would like to get the bearings in one shot (new wheel bearings too), but don't know if I'm going to swap the front end for a 1982 deluxe, Custom or GL500 one yet. Anyone know if the bearings are the same size for these other front ends?
 

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AFAIK all CX/GL500 models use the same RS 6302 wheel bearings.



http://cgi.ebay.com/6302-2RS-Double...210?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230b5a04d2



If you Ebay or Google a few you usually see them advertised covering all our models.



When I fitted a taper roller kit to my spare frame I had to sand down the Steering shaft quite a bit to get the parts to slide down.

I'm not going to bother to fit a Taper kit to either of my running bikes as the ball races are fine and I've found cheap replacement ball bearings,



http://cgi.ebay.com/100-1-4-Chrome-...627?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48408d49e3





http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p3...ct_info.html?gclid=CJXx4oTzjKkCFcod4QodL1YAkg
 

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My experience has been that the races were always damaged if the steering had notches. But the bikes have been GL Interstates with fairings and the previous owners were generally heavy people.



The GL500I I've owned since new never had notchy steering. At 56K miles tapered bearings were installed as preventive maintenance while new fork seals were being installed.
 

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My experience has been that the races were always damaged if the steering had notches. But the bikes have been GL Interstates with fairings and the previous owners were generally heavy people.



I can believe that as fairings and heavy wind-shields must put quite a load on the stem bearings.



The GL500I I've owned since new never had notchy steering. At 56K miles tapered bearings were installed as preventive maintenance while new fork seals were being installed.



Not a bad thing to do.I only post to give people other options especially if their races are fine and they are on a tight budget
 
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