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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a CX500 Eurosport which has been sat on my drive for about 5 years now. It has had a cover over it for most of the time.
I stopped riding it because the timing chain is noisy and I've never go around to repairing it.
I'm looking to sell it but I don't what to price it at without scaring people off or giving it away.

It's got about 80K on the clock. The paint work is tired. The down pipes need replacing as well as the timing chain and the seat cover. The rear disc has rusted up but the front one is clean. The engine rattles a bit (not the timing chain) but I rode it for several years without problems.
The tyres are good.
I guess it would probably start if I put a good battery on it. So I guess it's worth starting if I can borrow a battery.

There's a non Eurosport 17K "barn find" on ebay at the moment for £1295.00. Maybe he's really hopeful or he knows what it's worth. I don't know.

So any ideas what would be a good selling price?

Any help graciously received.

Thanks
Andy
 

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Get it running. A running bike is worth more than a dead one.. Do you want to make a reasonable price for it or just want it gone ? Thats the driver in setting your price. A fair price and it will sell - a stupid price and it wont .
I would think finding the price of a good runner would be a starting point , then probably ask 1/3 of that for yours
 

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80k miles is a lot, and if you were riding with a bad/ loose cam chain then I would imagine the engine is probably on its way out soon. Thats the biggest factor, cosmetics are easy.

However, an Eurosport is very cool and rare, just the tank and side panels and seat is worth some serious money.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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A loose chain that hasn't yet broken or destroyed the guides doesn't necessarily mean the engine is done. It just needs to be addressed ASAP.
The Eurosport will have an auto chain tensioner. It will keep the chain adjusted, as long as the chain is replaced when necessary. The fact that it has survived to 80k suggests that has happened at least once.
The engine rattle that isn't the chain could be loose valve tappets. Did you keep those in spec when you were riding it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Many thanks for your advice.

I stopped riding after I heard the timing chain noise. I may have run it for 40/60 miles till I noticed it. I fact that's what stopped me using at all, and it's been sat under a plastic cover since. I will add that it's been several plastic covers because they've all perished from sun rot even the UV resistant ones.

The engine rattle was there when I got it (cheap) and I've adjusted the tappets but no luck.

Regarding the side panels etc the seat will need a new cover.

I'm going to see if it will run. It may need a new battery but I'll take the old one out, top it up and re-charge it. If that does not work then I guess an new one at £50 will be regained selling it as a runner.

What the best way a de-rusting the rear disc? I guess push the pads/pistons in and apply the brake with the wheel spinning.

Kind regards
Andy
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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A loose chain that hasn't yet broken or destroyed the guides doesn't necessarily mean the engine is done. It just needs to be addressed ASAP.
The Eurosport will have an auto chain tensioner. It will keep the chain adjusted, as long as the chain is replaced when necessary. The fact that it has survived to 80k suggests that has happened at least once.
The engine rattle that isn't the chain could be loose valve tappets. Did you keep those in spec when you were riding it?
With auto adjusters the chain won't start to make noise until it is worn past where the tensioner can compensate and even then you are more likely to hear the broken tensioner rattling than the chain if my experience is any indicator.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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My point was that rattle doesn't mean your engine is a boat anchor, as someone suggested above. Damage is being done by that rattle, but it isn't necessarily fatal.
I would NOT run the engine until that chain slap is addressed.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I agree that it probably can be fixed and that it should be before it is run any more than to see if it will start.

But as I said, if my experience is any indicator you won't hear the chain slapping. I had one 650 engine (in my GL500 in '04) that developed a faint tap (nowhere near the noise the 500 made when the tensioner blade broke) and before I figured out what it was the camchain broke. When Eccles' 2nd 650 engine started to make the same sound I replaced the camchain as soon as possible but the tensioner's auto adjuster was already smashed (I think that's what made the faint tapping from the area where the tensioner adjuster screw should be).
 

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That's why I swapped in the manual tensioner on my 650. It's quicker and easier to adjust the manual than to inspect the auto at the same interval.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi,

There are two noises from the engine. A rattle from the piston/crank area which has been there from when I first got it. The chain noise comes from the back of the engine and is only audible when the engine is slowing down. It sounds like a chain rubbing so that it why I've assumed its the timing chain. It is not very noisy.

I can't see a problem in starting the engine (lows revs short time) just to prove it's a runner given that I've already unwitting used the bike in this condition. It's a risk I know.
I currently don't have the facilities to replace the chain so that's why I'm considering selling.

Kind regards
Andy
 
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