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Last summer I had an issue with my bike and got a lot of help from all of you. But once I found very small/fine copper colored flakes in my oil filter the problem was past my ability. If i bring in my bike its going to pretty pricey to fix. If i try to fix it my self i wont be riding this summer. I really want it fixed but im starting to think i should sell. Advice on what to do? im living in Minneapolis now any help at all would be great. I bought the bike for 700 bucks.

Thanks guys and gals for the advice.
 

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It probably won't be worth a lot if the rod/main bearings are gone, but if you have the space and inclination it's not strictly difficult to get at the rod bearings in particular and most things are pretty well documented across the various sources, though sourcing new ones may range from being simple to being a headache depending on the colour needed and the condition of the crank... does it go clunk if you do this test?

https://motofaction.org/mechanical-101/a-how-check-big-end-bearings-blown-screwdriver-clunk-test/

If you can find a running CX/GL motor near you it'll be simpler to swap a fresh one in, and you can make a CDI motor work in your bike if yours is TI by changing some components over under the rear cover. How much are running motors near you?
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Willie,

As Scott may have told you before you left Fargo, I have a spare engine if you need it. It's from a GL, so would be a direct swap into your '82 CX. I would want to open some covers to have a look, but I believe it to be in good condition.

Let me know what you choose to do.


R
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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An update.

Willie came by yesterday to pull the engine out of the back of my shed. I don't know its history, other than that Interstater held it as a spare for some number of years. After removing the spark plugs, it spun smoothly with a ratchet handle. Continuity test on the stator was good -- no grounding. Inspection showed the camchain to be approaching the end of its usefulness.

We decided to pull the covers to get a better look. The first challenge was the water pump seal. The ceramic ring had bonded to the camshaft.

Auto part Gear Engine Wheel


A pair of levers later, it was free. The next discovery was the missing advance unit retaining bolt. Glad I didn't attach a starter to check compression.

Aside from the ample blue RTV a PO had used to dress all the bolts and gaskets, it's surprisingly clean inside. Very little chain wear on the case. This looks like a low-mileage engine.

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Gear Metalworking


Visually, the stator looks good, so I think we're safe to reuse it. Opinions?

Auto part Clutch Engine Automotive starter motor Rotor


My fan puller is out on loan, so we couldn't remove the front cover. We'll replace the oil pump chain as a matter of course. The exterior if a little rough, so we'll reuse cooling system components from Willies CX. (We'll need the CX thermostat cover, anyway.) Not sure about the clutch. We can evaluate and decide which to use when the time comes.

Next task is to write up Willie's shopping list.


R
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I hope my stator looks that good (I don't think I'll open the engine just to find out).

Re silicone: I advocated the use of silicone on gaskets for many years but I always said that it should be applied so thin that you could only tell it was there by the gloss and allow it to cure overnight before assembly. Whoever did that obviously didn't do it that way so watch for bits of silicone in the oil system.
BTW: These days I grease gaskets instead because you can use them right away and if some gets into the oil it won't do any harm. I do still apply a small amount of silicone to the threads and under the heads of bolts to keep water out.

If the PO used that much silicone in the rear cover I would be looking for signs of silicone squeeze out around the head gaskets and replace them if you find any.
 
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