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1980 cx 500
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 1980 cx 500 that was owned by a old guy he could not ride it due to a injury in his knee but kept it in his garage for over five years I managed to buy it of him it's done 90,000 miles I changed the oil and filter put new plugs in and a battery fresh petrol , switched it on pulled out the choke pressed the start button and she fired up cost go !! The engine runs as sweet as no rattles or knocks I will give a good clean and check over then will drive it on a daily basis I read a lot about people stripping engines putting bigger brakes on and loads of other stuff ! What's wrong with just driving them ???
 

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90000 miles on British roads with all those hedgerows and hidden driveways, plus always driving on the wrong side of the road, now that's what I call a survivor.
 

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81 Gl500i 83 CX650E
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1,831 Posts
Nothing wrong with just riding them, best thing for them!
 

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I bought my basically stock (other than an ugly vetter fairing) 1980 cx500d with about 60k from an old timer Honda mechanic that was getting out of riding. He rode every day. He had two cx500 bikes. One with about 90k and one with about 60k. His 90k bike was his bad weather bike and the 60k was his nice weather bike. Both ran excellent with no issues. I've had mine for over a year, basically stock, and it's the bike my wife is learning on currently. They are really solid machines for sure.

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(Maybe)Depends if you want a rebuild project/winter project or a usable machine......
Many bikes been put on the road with bout 100-110psi compression and seen a few seasons b4 a "dissection/rebuild".....
 

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If it aint broke - dont f*ck with it . Get out and ride it , but remember its a 40 year old motorcycle that was never a sportsbike in its day. Service it , ride it , enjoy it
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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16,291 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year (NOT year first registered as UK paperwork shows) to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
Search the forum for info on how to check the condition of the camchain by looking through the timing mark inspection port with a dental mirror or an endoscope camera (you want to catch that before the chain breaks).
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Since the bike hasn't been used for 5 years you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know that they are over 5 years old and need to be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

BTW:
208247


Re modifying them, the best advice anyone can give you about customizing any vehicle is to get it safe & reliable in more or less original condition and use it for a while before you start making any changes so it can tell you what changes it needs to make it do what you want/need better. If it does what you need it to in stock condition why mess with it? On the other hand, if you see areas that can be improved, you are capable of making those improvements and you know it will make you happier if you do there's no harm in that either.
The trap that some people fall into is making changes that will affect the way it works based on what they think it will look like or what another bike they have seen looks like instead of how the result will work. That approach often results in a piece of expensive yard art that you can't stand sitting on for more than a few minutes and might even be dangerous.

In my case, I used to ride at night quite a bit and found the headlights of both of my bikes inadequate so I converted to HID headlights. I also wanted to make more power available for sidecar lighting, handlebar heaters (on the winter machine) and a stereo so I changed all the other lighting to LEDs. Along the way I decided that keeping the badly worn handlebar switches working was no longer amusing so I replaced them with brand new ones made for a different bike (I liked their look and I enjoy doing electrical work). I have also made a few changes for comfort & convenience as well as to replace what wore out or broke.
My bikes don't have many of the modifications that are popular among "customizers" but they are far from stock and (more importantly) do what I want/need them to do better.
 

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87k on mine.. I don't do anything but servicing.. Putting holes in brake torque arms and drilling holes into the discs.. That is not me..
 

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(Maybe)Depends if you want a rebuild project/winter project or a usable machine......
Many bikes been put on the road with bout 100-110psi compression and seen a few seasons b4 a "dissection/rebuild".....
Some improve their figures with use.

My blue 500C had low compression when I bought it. Several years later I checked the compression while troubleshooting - 170/170.
 
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