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Hi all!! I've acquired a silverwing and im trying to restore it and get it running! I've replaced the spark plugs and the caps. I've got new handlebar switches ordered and I ditched the fairing. I'll attach photos at the end up but the ignition issue may be the coils. I tested for spark with an in line spark tester and the old fashion way grounding it to the engine. I have no spark! I thought it was my caps initially since I know the resistor can be bad and they were the originals. Had to order them from Germany. Still no spark. Did some other component testing. The stator checked good and so did the caps and wires. I did continuity on the later and checked each terminal for the stator to ground (check for a short) and then I checked each one to another and they all read the same ohm reading. Now I'm just a baby electrical mechanic and new to small engines this is my second "rebuild" if you can call it that lol. I did a 83 Suzukimatic gs450. I couldn't find an adequate amount video to show the proper way to test my coils, and then I can't seem to find any close to oem to replace them with they are all too short/ dual lead. So can I just do one dual coil for like a gl1000 and call it a day or do I need to find two bigger single leads? Also I found the testing methods on good ol YouTube, and I have a printed copy of the original service manual and schematic. IMG_20191104_181122_417_1572916344008.jpg
 

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Do you have 12 volt getting to the coils?

You can't use dual lead coils on these. The firing intervals don't line up like a parallel twin or similar. You need two separate coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not sure, like I said I couldn't figure out how to do a proper component test on them or in circuit checks. Pointers would be appreciated.
 

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Check for incoming power on the black/white wire. Should be basically full battery voltage arriving with the ignition switch on and the kill set to run.

It would be unlikely {but still possible} for both coils to have died so there is likely a fault common to either the power supply to both coils or the switching.

Test the power supply first. If that's not the issue it may be time to test the pulse generators.
 

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Awesome!! I'll check that tomorrow!! I'm replacing the handlebar switches bc the left side the turn signals didn't work but I have voltage to my bulbs and when I plug in for the running lights they light up so I know components are good but when I turn the switch no flash. The right side the start button would engage the starter in any position I tried cleaning contacts on both even got used factory to try an replace an keep original. Same issues on both sides w new switches so I'm going aftermarket. I did continuity testing on wires and every thing did great until I plugged it in and signal wouldn't leave the switches.
 

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That sounds to me like something isn't connected correctly, rather than a problem in the actual switches.

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year (NOT year first registered) to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature) so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike has had 37 years of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. It looks like your bike still has the original rubber brake line, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so I recommend shopping for a modern stainless braided one (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

BTW: Yours is just about the same colour as mine :thumbsup:
 

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That sounds to me like something isn't connected correctly, rather than a problem in the actual switches.

By switches I mean the pulse generators -on/off/on/off ....

But yes .... could well be the connections. Well worth hand tracing ....
 

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I was referring to the handlebar switches that he has already replaced but the problems persist. Getting a set of switches that have exactly the same problems on each side as the old ones would be pretty unlikely to begin with and if the switches checked out with an ohm meter but didn't work it sounds even less likely.
 

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I couldn't find an adequate amount video to show the proper way to test my coils,
You can test a coil by disconnecting it from the system. Run a jumper wire to ground from the terminal where the black/white wire was connected. Brush or momentarily connect the end of a second jumper wire , which is connected to battery positive, against the terminal where the other wire was connected. If the coil is good your spark plug should fire every time this connection is made and broken.
 
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That reminds me: I forgot to mention that you can't ground the plugs to the rocker covers when checking for spark because the rocker covers are isolated from ground by the rubber seals.

Also, was the kill switch set to RUN? (I only mention this because we have all done it at one time or another)

It seems to me that this could be related to your problems with the switches too. Are you sure the ones you have are for a GL500 and not a CX500? GL500s all have Transistor Ignition but most CX500s have Capacitor Discharge Ignition and the switches from a CDI bike won't work on a TI bike. Among other things, the kill switch on a CDI bike shorts the ignition coils but the one on a TI bike interrupts the power to the coils.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hmm that makes sense. My issue was that it was engage in the off position. I don't know if I have TI or CDI and I don't know how to check that lol. But I'll see what I come up with on my coils.
 

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Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature)

BTW: Yours is just about the same colour as mine
I can't see the signature on my phone and our bikes are similar in color!! And I'll look at getting a stainless steel brake line! Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also may attempt at checking the circuits too the coils at the connector came up to a whopping 0.04dc volts on my handle little craftsman multimeter. And I got that reading on either coil; key in the on position and switch in any of the 3 positions in one position it was 0.00v as it should be in off but not getting B+ voltage. So I guess I need to comment test the signal senders? What should my reading be and how would I check them correctly. Also thanks so much you guys for checking in so quick! I've been creeping on this site for a couple months while I built the courage to get serious into getting this bike running. It's been super positive of an experience!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks!!! I have an 81 hondamatic that's got a cdi now I know the diff good post too
 

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Sorry for so many spam pots lol last one for tonight. Left my multimeter on by accident and battery died. But I did get to digging in my manual and found so specs I could check easily enough. So for my coils I got a reading of 3.3ohms on each and the book has spec range of 2-3ohms so I figure they are good? Then I saw a secondary way to test them but I didn't have 2 batteries handy at the time. And as I was making my way to the spark unit test and the pulse generator wire I couldn't find the wire and then my meter died!! So I'll attach another pic of the schem I'm following and the pics from my paper manual.

P.s. there is supposed to be a 5amp and 10 amp fuse somewhere. I can't find them. I believe they are just for secondary power?? Not sure if I need to find them.

P.p.s. another video I was watching of troubleshooting ignition issues said that it may be best even if they work or not; to replace the coils as they are old and as an electrical component should be replaced to get regain power. But I'll get a battery for my meter and get the bike running (hopefully) before I replace them. What's a good aftermarket coil for this bike?
 

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