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Willys you quoted me wrong

The mikunis wont perform as well with a 2-1 nor will they make max horsepower

The stock carbs will run ok with a 2-1,but also wont make mac horsepower

And when you get into custom made 2-1, the stock carbs due to the cv slide lift willl self compensate for poor exhaust flow and not bog out like the mikunis will from diminished air flow,

However if you put the bike on the road or the dyno you will quickly find that numbers don't lie and the power and torque is not there

And when designing a 2-1,the closer to the heads the collecter is the worse it reverts and worse scavenging.

X pipes are a disaster on the cx they cause way more reversion

So in summaton stock.carbs will mask the problem a bit better but are not making good power of you put it on the dyno or out on the road you will get passed by
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Wow didnt realize i had so many replys here. Had a great summer with the bike, got it "finished" again early spring and really got to enjoy it. Coudlnt tell you how many miles i put on it because i have no speedo/odo but it didnt let me down and I had a blast.

As far as the exhaust goes, the bike runs really strong. I have 90/120 jets in the carbs with pods. I never rode the bike before i chopped/modified it so I dont know what it was like before but its got plenty of power. It isnt a dyno queen so I dont know what numbers its putting down but it runs strong and goes when I tell it to. I have had a few other CX riders ride it and they said its right where it needs to be.

As i mentioned in my last post I was working on a 18" rear wheel with disc brake. I orginally bought a entire swingarm/wheel/brake setup off of a cb900. I later realized the swingarm was no where close to fitting and could take way more work then it was worth to try and make it work. After messing around with the CB900 wheel i realized the hub on the wheel wasnt going to mate to the CX diff with out some modifications i didnt want to do. I ended up obtaining another CX rear wheel and cutting the hub out of it and scrapping the hoop and spokes. I cut the hub out of the CB900 wheel and scrapped that and saved the spokes and hoop.

I started with cutting the drum off of the CX hub



And then machined the hub down so the surfaces were all flat. I also had to drill out the threaded holes that normally mount the drive flange to the hub to through holes so bolts could slide through.




Started machining my rotor adaptor






I was going to use the CB900 rear rotor/caliper but decided it was to big and looked awkward with the front brakes so I decided to go with a smaller combo. The rotor and caliper were off of a 05 CBR1krr.


 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
The next step was to rebuild the wheel. Got it all back together in 1 shot was it was "true" in 1 shot also. I used precision ground shoulder bolts to put the spokes back together. The holes on the CB hoop were 8mm in diameter and the holes on the spokes were slightly smaller. When they were riveted together at the factory it looks like the aluminum rivets were squished in there to fill the gap. I reamed the spoke holes out to 8mm and torqued everything to the recommended torque values for that size bolt.



Back on the bike



I dont have any pictures of it, but on the caliper mount where the guide is that normally slides into the CBR swing arm I drilled a hole and slid a bolt through it. I connected that to the factory CX drum brake stay. I had to shorten the stay a couple of inches to get the caliper position I wanted but it worked out perfectly. I also ended up mounting 07 CBR600 rear sets to the bike to utilize the factory rear brake pedal controls. I used the CB900 rear brake line which ended up being a perfect length and a inline pressure switch for the rear brake light.





The bike is in storage for the winter now but I should have some more updates in the spring. I have a set of CBR600rr forks sitting in the garage waiting to go on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Its been a hot minute since i updated this build, I have been riding the bike fairly regularly since it was built and other than having a turn signal switchs go bad its been great for the past few years. The front end was shot though so I finally got around to putting the CBR front end on the bike that I have had since i did the original build.

Specs:
Forks: 09 CBR600RR
Brake Discs: 11 CBR1000RR
Calipers: 11 CBR1000RR (the smaller version)
Master Cyl/Brake lines: 11 CBR1000RR (Stock)
Front Wheel: Stock CX Comstar
Bearings: All Balls
Fender: Stock w/ custom mounts

I was set on keeping the front comstar wheel as I hate when bikes have mixed wheels. That posed a interesting problem because the hub on the CX comstar only had 1 disc and was not symmetrical side to side. I started this conversion trying to use a comstar wheel from a gl1100 since the bike had dual discs and the hub was symmetrical. The issue i ran into was that the spokes on that wheel are to wide to clear the calipers on the CBR front end. There was not enough meat on the calipers to take material off of the backside of the caliper without ruining it. I looked at adding spacers between the caliper and the fork mount to essentially stand the caliper off for a larger diameter rotor to get clearance, but the caliper would have been grabbing 1/3 of the surface area on the rotor by the time i got clearance.

This is where the CBR1000RR rotors and calipers became critical. The 1000RR has factory spacers that are ~.250" to space the caliper off of the mounts since it uses larger rotors than the 600RR. This gave me some a better starting point for clearancing the calipers to the wheels. I also switched back to the stock CX wheel, and while the hub is not symmetric side to side the spokes are narrower. I was able to take minimal material off of the backside of the calipers to get everything to clear and spin freely.

I machined all of the spacers to mount/center the wheel in the forks and then machined the spacers to mount the rotors to the wheel. Mounting the forks was very easy with the All Balls conversion bearings. I ended up using the thicker spacer under the bottom bearing so the head tub would clear the lower clamp.

Overall the bike handles, rides and STOPS much better. The only issue I have so far is that the offset between the steering stem and fork tubes is less than the CX so it sucks the front wheel closer to the motor. Normal riding is fine, but when i get on the brakes fairly aggressively and the forks compress the tire rubs on the exhaust slightly and is chewing up my exhaust wrap. I will have to do something about that in the spring.
 

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Thicker oil or stiffer springs should solve that scrubbing issue and reduce braking dive.
 
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