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1980 Honda CX500
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Jumped the solenoid and I heard it go half a revolution at least it’s not locked up, so that rules out solenoid I assume?
 

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Only half a revolution because you stopped jumping the solenoid?
 
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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Jumping the solenoid is a last resort if power is getting to the solenoid's coil but not to the starter motor (I'll post an explanation for that in a few minutes). All it proves is that the starter motor works.

If the engine is OK and the starter motor motor working properly the engine should turn over & over (& hopefully start within the first few rotations). Since yours turned less than a full revolution either
  • something is keeping the engine from turning (unscrew the cap in the front of the engine below the rad and try turning the engine with a wrench - look this up in the FSM for details)
  • the starter motor has a problem or
  • there isn't enough power in the battery for the starter motor turn the engine (did you charge your new battery before you installed it?)
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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The drawing below is for the later models so the details are different but the principles are the same. As you can see, there is a coil inside the solenoid (shown as a wire with a series of loops). When power is applied to the coil it becomes a magnet and pulls a permanent magnet that is attached to the high current contacts so that the contacts close and current can flow to the starter motor.
Assuming the new battery is charged, the transmission is in neutral and the lights work, the first thing you need to do to find out why the starter motor doesn't run is to check for voltage across the solenoid's coil (yellow/red and green/red wires - check the drawing for your model) when the Start button is pressed.
- If there is power on the coil the solenoid's contacts should click closed and the starter motor should turn.
--- If there is power on the coil and that doesn't happen the problem is probably the solenoid
--- If there is no power on the coil when the Start button is pressed the problem is either between battery + and the coil or between the coil and battery -
- Connect a jumper between battery - and the green/red wire and see if the starter motor turns when you press Start.
---
If it does the problem is in either the neutral switch or the wiring to it. I'd start by making sure the wire is connected to the neutral switch (bottom rear of engine) and that the other end of the wire is plugged into the bike's main wiring harness.
--- If it doesn't, connecting a jumper between battery + and the yellow/red wire should make the starter motor turn.
---- If that works the problem is between battery + and the yellow/red so go through that part of the circuit checking for voltage until you find the problem.

208319
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Recommendation:
  • Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a white rad or paper towel and if it doesn't look too dirty it should be OK to start the engine with the old oil for testing.
  • Buy an oil filter and some JASO-MA rated 10W40 oil but don't change the oil until you have started and warmed up the engine. (It is always best to drain the oil while it is warm whenever possible so that it will drain more completely).
  • If it was "stored" with fuel in the tank it will probably be too stale for starting so empty the tank. If the old fuel runs like water you may be lucky and only need to replace it with some fresh fuel (note that stale gasoline is considered hazardous waste in most places and should be disposed of according to local requirements).
  • Drain any remaining fuel from the carbs. Don't be too disappointed if you end up needing to clean them but see if it starts & runs first.
  • Try to start it. If it starts run let it warm up just enough that the water pipe on the left side of the engine starts to warm up, then shut it off and change the oil right away (Caution: The oil will be hot)

Let us know what happens.
 

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Hey, there's a sight from the past! How are you doing, Bearman?
Hey Randall! Doin' pretty alright I reckon!
Gittin' older n crankier like everyone else I reckon! :p
Was gittin' my bike ready for a "decidin' ridin." Ta see if I can still "do it er screw it!" ;)
Got a new bat tree, put some gas in the tank, and she fired up!
Squeezed the front brake lever, and went all the way to the handlebar. Nuttin'!
The problem became evident, when I started scraping with my fingernail the site glass on the reservoir, to check the level, and she started crumbling. Very much the same way that original 30 amp fuse crumpled to the touch! Uh OH!....LOL!
Couldn't even budge those 2 phillips headed screws on top to check! Can ya say QUITE rounded off? :p:p:p I guess they don't make site glasses as good as they usedta! :p
Ordered me a new one offa fleabay, and am waitin' on it to arrive.
We'll see what happens after I get the new MC on n all bled out!

Apologies to the OP, for goin' off topic!

As far as pulling in the clutch handle goes for turning the engine over?
I'll quote a guy I've been watching on U-toob recently. Who also hails from Minnesota (vice grip garage).
"If it WORKS?" "It CAN'T be a bad idea!" :p
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Yeah, and everything he says in his videos has to be absolutely correct or they wouldn't let him upload them to YouTube.
I don't want to get into dealing with 2 separate problems on 2 separate machines in the same thread (waaaaayy too confusing) but see the drawing in post #44 of this thread for how the neutral switch, clutch switch and diode relate to the starter circuit. It should start in neutral without pulling the clutch lever.
 

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1980 Honda CX500
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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Recommendation:
  • Remove the dipstick and wipe it with a white rad or paper towel and if it doesn't look too dirty it should be OK to start the engine with the old oil for testing.
  • Buy an oil filter and some JASO-MA rated 10W40 oil but don't change the oil until you have started and warmed up the engine. (It is always best to drain the oil while it is warm whenever possible so that it will drain more completely).
  • If it was "stored" with fuel in the tank it will probably be too stale for starting so empty the tank. If the old fuel runs like water you may be lucky and only need to replace it with some fresh fuel (note that stale gasoline is considered hazardous waste in most places and should be disposed of according to local requirements).
  • Drain any remaining fuel from the carbs. Don't be too disappointed if you end up needing to clean them but see if it starts & runs first.
  • Try to start it. If it starts run let it warm up just enough that the water pipe on the left side of the engine starts to warm up, then shut it off and change the oil right away (Caution: The oil will be hot)

Let us know what happens.
How would I end up shutting the engine off if the kill switch is bad.
 

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The CX500 like yours has a kill switch which shuts off the engine by grounding the CDI. The wire to the CDI is black/white. Find a connector along that wire and disconnect. If the bike starts and you want to stop it ground the CDI side of the black/white wire.
 

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If you change the oil when the engine is cold you could leave about 10% or so of the old oil in the engine. If you do that I highly recommend changing the oil & filter again after you have started & warmed the engine.

Re coolant, there is an M6 screw in the front of each cylinder (behind the rad) that need to be removed to drain the last couple of hundred mL of coolant. Leaving that much in won't hurt during regular coolant changes but if you are trying to get rid of the stuff that sat in the engine....

In both cases, unless the coolant you can see in the radiator or the oil on the dipstick look particularly bad I would wait until after I started it to change them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
If you change the oil when the engine is cold you could leave about 10% or so of the old oil in the engine. If you do that I highly recommend changing the oil & filter again after you have started & warmed the engine.

Re coolant, there is an M6 screw in the front of each cylinder (behind the rad) that need to be removed to drain the last couple of hundred mL of coolant. Leaving that much in won't hurt during regular coolant changes but if you are trying to get rid of the stuff that sat in the engine....

In both cases, unless the coolant you can see in the radiator or the oil on the dipstick look particularly bad I would wait until after I started it to change them.
I had just finished and now reading this, the oil looked really good surprisingly as well as the plugs about to throw some gas in it and see if it will fire up
 

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Perfect. Now's the time to change the oil while it is still warm.
The coolant can wait until the engine cools down. This may be useful

BTW: Any idea why it started for you now but wouldn't start 5 years ago?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Perfect. Now's the time to change the oil while it is still warm.
The coolant can wait until the engine cools down. This may be useful

BTW: Any idea why it started for you now but wouldn't start 5 years ago?
Well it was idling perfect left to get a new bolt came back started it now it doesn’t want to idle
 

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If you are lucky you didn't put much gas in and it is running out. If not probably some dirt in one of the carbs moved. I think I mentioned not to be surprised if you needed to clean them....
 

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If you are lucky you didn't put much gas in and it is running out. If not probably some dirt in one of the carbs moved. I think I mentioned not to be surprised if you needed to clean them....
Yeah, and make sure you stick a filter on the line for a while to capture any rust in the tank. Lots of old tanks have the in-tank-filter broken due to age.
 
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