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In order of ease: transmission jack, rolling floor jack, 2 men, various wood and concrete blocks. Where there is a will there is a way. A suspended cable come-a-long can be used. I forget exactly, its about 165 lbs? My method is not available for everyone. 😁
 

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1978 honda cx500
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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
In order of ease: transmission jack, rolling floor jack, 2 men, various wood and concrete blocks. Where there is a will there is a way. A suspended cable come-a-long can be used. I forget exactly, its about 165 lbs? My method is not available for everyone. 😁
Thank you! Im going to see what my options are. Oddly enough its harder to find a milk crate than i thought
 

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... Oddly enough its harder to find a milk crate than i thought...
My milk crates were full of parts so I used an upside down 5L plastic pail last time. Worked but wasn't as easy to slide out as the milk crate.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Early CX bikes came with resistors in the caps but not in the plugs. I'm not sure which year they started to specify resistor plugs as well but the GL500 had both from the start of production in Canada and the US caught up a year or 2 later.
That means you can have either resistor caps, resistor plugs or both with no effect on performance.

The resistor has 2 functions. It alters the shape of the spark pulse slightly and it helps reduce Radio Frequency Interference. You won't notice the increased RFI caused by not having at least one resistor in each ighition circuit unless you listen to AM radio on the bike but anyone nearby with a CB radio will hear it and anyone watching TV when you drive past will see it.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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If you drill be careful not to go deep enough to damage the metal cap that the spring is supposed to contact in the bottom of the hole.

BTW: The brass rod you posted would work but most welders end up with short pieces of rod so if you know anyone who welds with a torch they might be able to give you a few inches of brass welding rod instead.
 

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1978 honda cx500
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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
I do know some welders so ill ask them! Very good point i didnt think of that. Thank you all for the help, im learning a lot about these bikes and its truly making me enjoy the process regardless of how stressful it can be sometimes.

Ok so some final questions before i call it a night, on the raesan website, he has 2 options for the kit, ill post a pic of some screenshots i took. I wanna make sure im looking at the right one. Ans which one of the two options i need because they have the same description.

I also saw this tool on murrays site that was said yo be helpful in adjusting the valves, its the quickset tool. Im no expert in the process but reviews have said its been very helpful and makes the job easier. Does anyone here have any experience with the quickset tool? Or it is better to just follow the manual in adjusting the valves? (I mainly ask because ive never adjusted valves before so i want to guarantee a good job)
 

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That is the raesan that you want - a V4 DC CDI ignition.

It is up to you if you want to get Murrays tool for setting the valve clearances. But looking at the timing marks and making sure I'm on the correct stroke for the adjustment does it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
That is the raesan that you want - a V4 DC CDI ignition.

It is up to you if you want to get Murrays tool for setting the valve clearances. But looking at the timing marks and making sure I'm on the correct stroke for the adjustment does it for me.
On the site it says im looking at the V3 model. I actually havnt seen any mention of the V4 other than him stating they have interchangeable parts between kits

Actually its V3.5 is what i see
 

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As far as I'm aware {and I have a number of Rays assorted offerings} the ignition you show is the V4. The V3 was in a plastic 3D printed case. Ray may have changed this. But my V3s require 12 volt, not CDI coils and don't use the two ignition modules shown in this listing. They are for the DC CDI..

Some more info here. Post 117 onwards

 

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Discussion Starter · #254 ·
As far as I'm aware {and I have a number of Rays assorted offerings} the ignition you show is the V4. The V3 was in a plastic 3D printed case. Ray may have changed this. But my V3s require 12 volt, not CDI coils and don't use the two ignition modules shown in this listing. They are for the DC CDI..

Ahh ok that makes sense, its just listed as V3.5 but as long as thats the one i need thats what matters. So the HALL kit is what i need, perfect thank you
 

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Fill your stubborn spark plug cap with white vinegar, and let it soak for a few hours. Then see if the internals will come out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Ray actually had a very nice flowchart in picking what you need. So i went with that.

My welder friend has some brass rods hes going to give me, he had some 5mm which is perfect.

In regards to removing the engine, i think im going to do what someone mentioned above, and only remove the top engine mounts, having it pivot on the rear mount. That way i can put my car jack in the front to control the front of the engine. If this is a horrible idea please let me know but its something i thought about last night that seemed to give me good access without taking everything apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
Ok so the king of issues is back, i had a friend lend me his compression kit because i wanted to rule out everything possible. (I know i should have done this way earlier in the rebuild but the seller had assured me he did all these tests and they were perfect. I got a good deal on it and he seemed kind so i didnt think he had any reason to lie, anyway)

The left cylinder had a compression of about 168 which was great, the right cylinder however was flat out 0. I tried several times and made sure there was a seal, but it was just 0. The part about it that confused me is that i felt the same blow of air coming from both ends, so i would think they should be the same. Ive read some posts on this forum about it but before i attempt anything i wanted to ask myself what i should be looking for here. Cause if the compression was 0 it shouldnt fire at all correct? But it did at higher rpms.


This may also help. When my gauge is connected to the port, even though the compression is 0 i can hear air escaping from somewhere else, however im not sure where. Ive heard that valves could be stuck open but again, i want to ask before attempting it.

This may end up being the root of my problem. But i actually did order a raesan unit. Even if it wasnt needed it sounds like its a good upgrade to have so i guess no regrets here. But thank you again for your help!
 

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Check the valve clearances on the bad cylinder. If they have been adjusted on the exhaust stroke the valves won't be closing and this seems the most likely explanation for 0 compression. Even a worn out motor should register something.

Rotate the motor a few times. What you are looking for is a huge gap on the exhaust valves. If you find this, readjust them at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Check the valve clearances on the bad cylinder. If they have been adjusted on the exhaust stroke the valves won't be closing and this seems the most likely explanation for 0 compression. Even a worn out motor should register something.

Rotate the motor a few times. What you are looking for is a huge gap on the exhaust valves. If you find this, readjust them at this point.

Ill try that! Fingers crossed
 
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