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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Sweet that is perfect! Im assuming those will already come ready with the resistors in them? It doesnt gice a description on the website but i feel like ots dafe to assume its a complete part?
 

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Is there a problem with your present coils? If not, why replace them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #225 ·
Is there a problem with your present coils? If not, why replace them?
Well currently im having an issue of cleaning them, because one of them has the spring and metal rod stuck in there from the corrosion. Ive been trying to remove them but so far no luck
 

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The item with the spring stuck in it is the plug cap, not the coil.

The coil is the item you show in post 208

The cap screws into the coil wire - but is not part of the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
The item with the spring stuck in it is the plug cap, not the coil.

The coil is the item you show in post 208

The cap screws into the coil wire - but is not part of the coil.
Oh yes apologies, switching between all the terminology had me lost. But yes im not replaying my coils yet. Just was something i had in mind since they are cheap. It was the caps im worried about since the corrosion inside them.
 

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Have you applied some penetrating oil (not WD40) or some electrical contact cleaner ( not WD40)?
 

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The coils can be tested with a multimeter if you don't want to replace them.

Input to ground - less than 1 ohm.

Output to input - 7,500 ohms.

Output to ground - more than 5000 ohms.

Input is the pink or yellow wire, ground the metal mounting bar and output the end of the plug lead with the plug cap removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #232 ·
The coils can be tested with a multimeter if you don't want to replace them.

Input to ground - less than 1 ohm.

Output to input - 7,500 ohms.

Output to ground - more than 5000 ohms.

Input is the pink or yellow wire, ground the metal mounting bar and output the end of the plug lead with the plug cap removed.
Input to ground was 0
Output to input was about 8000 for both
And output to ground was abour 8000 for both as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #234 ·
Sounds like the coils should work.
Thats perfect thank you for having me do that. So its just the cap im needing. Im going to keep trying to get these pieces unstuck from the one i have. But i mean, even if i do, if i cant buy new resistors for it, it sounds like i may need new ones anyway
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
Check this out.

Ok super interesting read, so now that makes me wanna ask, in the picture i sent before, (Ill post it again) with the components from one cap laid out. Is that metal rod a normal component? Or has someone tried to make the contact better?

Also people have said they just replaced the resistor with a brass rod and didnt need to change their plugs, but it sounds like it would be smarter to use iridium plugs in this case
 

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The idea is to replace the resister with the brass rod {I use a thick brazing rod} and run resister spark plugs instead.

This is a better approach as you will get new resisters every time the plugs are replaced.

Irridium plugs {DR8EIX} are resister plugs - but are pricy.

Cheaper is the resister version of the D8EA plugs you likely have currently fitted. These are designated DR8EA.

Another option since you have the long aluminium rod is to use this and fit a longer spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
The idea is to replace the resister with the brass rod {I use a thick brazing rod} and run resister spark plugs instead.

This is a better approach as you will get new resisters every time the plugs are replaced.

Irridium plugs {DR8EIX} are resister plugs - but are pricy.

Cheaper is the resister version of the D8EA plugs you likely have currently fitted. These are designated DR8EA.

Another option since you have the long aluminium rod is to use this and fit a longer spring.
Ahh perfect, yes i actually have those D8EA plugs currently, although i found a fair price for a 4 pack of irridium plugs as well, i have photos of both listings. This seems like a way better option, especially considering the OEM caps are 30 a piece. So i just need to find a way to remove those stuck piece and im in the clear.
 

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Test tube Electronic cigarette Tobacco Cylinder Tool


This is what you are dealing with.

Once you have removed the inner components you need to clean the contact at the top that the spring here is located into as seen here.

This is a site of corrosion. Also, the strap that goes around the right angle can burn out. If after thorough cleaning you can't get conductivity from one end to the other this will be the issue - though it's not that common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #240 ·
View attachment 209936

This is what you are dealing with.

Once you have removed the inner components you need to clean the contact at the top that the spring here is located into as seen here.

This is a site of corrosion. Also, the strap that goes around the right angle can burn out. If after thorough cleaning you can't get conductivity from one end to the other this will be the issue - though it's not that common.
Im sure the strap is fine since it was still firing at those higher rpms. But ill let some penetrating oil sit in there overnight and see if i have any luck. Worst case i can drill out the piece to get a grip on it?

So that brass rod upgrade is ONLY replacing the resistor correct? So that other metal rod in between the spring and resistor is still going to be a part of my caps?
 
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