Im guessing i would have to move the frame itself if i did it that way, so would the height be correct for whenever i have to bolt the engine back?
I've installed them both engine in and out.
Engine out is easiest as you can see what you are doing better ... except you have to pull the engine.
Engine in it is fiddly but doable. The coolant bottle can be unbolted but not removed but you can push it out of the way - sort of.
A cranked ring spanner is my tool of choice for removing and refitting the 5 small cover bolts. Most tools struggle to reach a couple of them.
Interesting tool..I've seen some marked in KVolts for cars.
Thank you for letting me know, i went ahead and added my location and my bike model. So ive already put new tires, changed the brake line, changed all the cables (throttle push and pull, choke cable, clutch cable), new valve stems on the wheels as well. Everything is ready to go, i just need that right cylinder to work for me. Ill probably need new ignition boots, i may need help choosing them because they almost all look the same to me, and i also cant seem to find any that use just one connector pin. Its probably a good idea for me to change the gaskets in the engine, im not sure how good the quality is but 4into1 has a engine set that comes with all the rubber parts for around 50-60$. How hard would this be? Ive never had to take an engine apart to that extent before. Other than that the bike seems good to go. Im going to see if i can find a furniture dolly at harbor freight, id just need one high enough that it would be the right level when i need to bolt the engine back to the frame.I use a flat furniture dolly for removing the engine (details & pics here)
I'm working on a cafe project and have come to the conclusion that i'm gonna have to pop that engine out of the frame. I really don't want to drop a hundred bucks or whatever getting a proper jack for the job. Is it possible to do it just using a jack that comes in a car for changing flat...www.cx500forum.com
BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Present problems aside, your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
If all you are doing is installing a Rae-San you only need one gasket, the one for the timing cover. You could cut one from gasket material or buy a gasket. CX500 Advance Pulser Cover Gasket – Murrays Carbs . You are not taking the engine apart if all you are doing is installing a Rae-San, just removing the timing cover. If you are on a budget keep it simple, only replace what needs replacing unless you are willing to lay up the bike for some time.