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it should work just fine with what you have



cheers
 

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2021 Benelli Leoncino - 2017 CSC RX3 - 2017 SSR Buccaneer 250i - 1979 CX650 Street Scrambler
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So, a couple of questions.



What is the stock bolt pattern of the CX500 rotor?

What is the stock diameter of the CX500 rotor?

What is the stock offset of the CX500 rotor?



I'm looking for a rotor that will bolt to the CX500 front wheel, which is 310mm in diameter, and approx 0.75 to 1.0 offset. (I will have to measure to be sure).



Charles.
 

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Moto-Mucci,

the rotor thickness may not be an issue since you have also changed to the CB900F calliper and bracket........and that amount of travel will be taken up with a new set of pads + when was the last time any one used up a set of pads for there to be a potential issue..... just a thought. When I bought my CX it still had original pads!
 

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Thinking about it even more ( I always have after thoughts ) ..........Brake pressure might not be an issue if when you fully pump up your brakes top up the brake fluid in the reservoir, and when the calliper releases it only lets off slightly but not to the point that it returns to a full open position





just my thoughts and I hope it helps
 

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I guess I don't know enough about the internal workings of a caliper. What is it that is returning the caliper piston? I would think it's the actuation of the piston in the master cylinder that's actuated by the brake lever. If that's the case then the piston should return to the same spot each time the lever is fully released. It's basically sucking the caliper piston back in right? (theory)



Unless it's the rotor itself that is "pressing"/forcing the piston back into place. In that case the caliper piston would always return the brake pads back to a certain distance from the rotor and your previous statement may be correct.



Now that I think more about it, it's probably the latter since there's always the issue of prying the caliper pistons back into the caliper when you've got the caliper off to replace pads.
 

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I absolutely love this Idea!! Had I not just totally rebuilt my front caliber and paid to much for new OEM rotor I would have so went this route!! Next time!!
 

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i copied you and got this rotor (open box on ebay for 130ish
)



im going to try and be using an 86 cb450sc caliper. for research in other threads i think it should be the same. i also after much confusing research think i found some ebc sintered pads that will work (fa69hh). we shall see how it goes.
 

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Moto-Mucci,

its not so much as sucking the caliper back into its original place, its more like alleviating pressure enough for the pads not to drag on the rotor
 

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Hello.



I've got an 82 GL500, unfaired, with single rotor. I am nearly almost sure, that this EBC rotor would be a straight fit replacement for my original rotor, the diameter is the same and I have the same front wheel (as far as for the looks) as the CX shown in this topic. Can anyone tell me if i'm right? Greets from Poland.
 

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I upgraded my 81 custom from the single to dual piston caliper and was happy with the increase in stop and decrease in effort. Be sure to report back with how much more stop you get out of this rotor - the drilling should mean that it stops better.
 

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I upgraded my 81 custom from the single to dual piston caliper and was happy with the increase in stop and decrease in effort. Be sure to report back with how much more stop you get out of this rotor - the drilling should mean that it stops better.


You wouldn't really see better stopping power over the stock rotor unless you are tracking the bike. The holes are to reduce heat and warping when you're really pushing it. If you're just riding around public roads you likely won't feel any difference. In fact you might feel a negative impact considering there's less surface area to grab on to.



The benefit for us is

1. stock CX rotors are hard to find / around $400...for one (when I called around to Honda dealers to try to find them). The EBC one is about $190.

2. They look way better then the stock rotor
and should resist warping / last longer, especially if you're now running sintered / semi-sintered pads.
 

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Drilled rotors help shed dust and gas from the pad as well as water in wet conditions. The wet weather performance is worth it for the improved control.
 

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I realize this is an old thread, but since it is a sticky, I thought I'd add a resource that allows you to search rotors by size, bolt pattern and other measurements:
metalgear.com.au
 

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I found the uk EBC supplier page and under the search MD1036lS

Text Font Document Paper Line

Found that the disc will fit all of these.
 
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So I've seen a lot of information around the web about what fits, what doesn't, etc. (Thanks!!) But I haven't seen a good write up from anyone who has done any of these swaps on the braking performance differences. Is it worthwhile? I've recently picked up the Nissin brake master, SS hose and caliper seal kit but I'm wondering if I should keep my eye out for a rotor and caliper...

I also see this guy on Ebay offers grinding and crossdrilling of the stock rotor. Any thoughts on this?
Honda CX500 CX650 CM400 CB900 Brake Disc Rotor Service | eBay

Edit: Nevermind I ran across the exact thread for caliper upgrades, is it worth it? :)
 

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Old I know, but... if reading correctly, these brakes only work if I also replace my single caliper to dual?

Has anyone come across a rotor that will work without having to swap out anything? I found one for the CX500 but when asked was told that it wouldn't fit the 78-79 Standard, not sure what is different but enough that it wouldn't work. I'd like to keep my single piston, just rebuilt and painted it.
 
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