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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Let me start by saying I have done some looking around beforehand and as far as I know I do not have a 80+ ignition (previous owner says it used to work just fine before it got torn down)

My current issue is that every time I turn the key to Park it blows the main fuse. I have tried unplugging everything that should be active in park and it still does it. With some digging around I found a wiring diagram and on that diagram it shows which circuits should be active and in which position
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I disconnected my ignition and wrote down which pins were connected to which wires and then did a continuity check on all pins in all positions to see if they lined up with the diagram.
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It kind of followed the diagram but there were a few differences in On and Park.
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As for Park, the issue I believe is that it shorts Red (which is(+)) to Green (which is chassis ground), which is obviously enough to blow a fuse instantly.
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Is this a case of somebody rearranging the wires in the connector or do I have a bad ignition or did the previous owner replace the ignition and never turn it to Park?
 

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207617


Here's the proper CDI switch pin out.

These are the positions that the terminals should connect in.

Red - on.

Blue - park.

Black - off and lock.

A CDI switch hooks black/white to green in off and park to kill the CDI system.

Unfortunately, I've recorded nothing about the brown/white for some reason.

Pretty sure you have the wrong switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
View attachment 207617

Here's the proper CDI switch pin out.

These are the positions that the terminals should connect in.

Red - on.

Blue - park.

Black - off and lock.

A CDI switch hooks black/white to green in off and park to kill the CDI system.

Unfortunately, I've recorded nothing about the brown/white for some reason.

Pretty sure you have the wrong switch.
Alright thanks for the help! I'll have to start looking through ebay and find the right one
 

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Niche cycles used to sell the correct CDI switch. Ebay listings tell lies about the fitment of these switches often listing as 78 - 82 when they are only correct for the 82. Be wary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Niche cycles used to sell the correct CDI switch. Ebay listings tell lies about the fitment of these switches often listing as 78 - 82 when they are only correct for the 82. Be wary.
Hard to say but the eBay listing I bought from has (visually) the same ignition and key as the one on Niche Cycles. I guess we’ll find out in 3-5 days!
 

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Did CX500s have an aux position? North American CX500s didn't have park position as far as I know.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My '78 has Park.
View attachment 207620
This is the stock cylinder with an aftermarket base installed a few years ago. George Fix (on eBay) didn't have the right one in stock, so he directed me to a seller who did. Good guy!
It looks like 4-into-1 has the correct part.
Thanks for the link! I guess someone's watching out for me because that's who I ordered from earlier!
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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What they said^^^^^

BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
 
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