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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All



This is just a thought, has anyone put six gears into a CX, can it be done?



Just curious.



Cheers



Curt
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That answers that question then, cheers.
 

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You can also put in a 650 clutch and primary gear and lower the RPM about half a gears worth.



Steps required in changing a GL500 clutch to a GL650 clutch



Parts needed:

1. Front engine gasket

2. Clutch cover gasket (Not really needed, but a good idea)

3. O-rings (3) between the front cover and the engine

4. 650 Primary crankshaft gear

5. 650 Clutch housing

6. 650 Clutch plates

7. 650 Clutch Springs

8. 650 Collar

9. 650 Roller bearings

10. 650 Rear washer

11. 650 Oil separator (Oil splash guard) (500 splash guard can be used with some hammer work to make the 650 clutch housing clear the 500 guard and the use of the 500 rear washer rather than the 650 washer. They have a different OD)

12. I have recently found out that you need the spacer behind the clutch basket from the GL if you are replacing a CX500 clutch. All GLs have the spacer but the CX instead has a longer piece sticking out the back of the clutch basket acting as a spacer.

Remove:

1. Seat

2. Tank

3. Fairing

4. Crash guards (if equipped)

5. Radiator

6. Right motor mount

7. Clutch cable

8. Oil pressure sender wire

9. Fan

10. Front engine cover

11. Clutch

12. Primary gear

When you strip the front of the engine I would recommend you build the tool to take the clutch-retaining nut off the engine. You can make it with a piece of pipe, a hacksaw, and a grinder. I highly recommend that you weld a socket to the other end of the pipe so you can use a breaker bar, or better yet an impact wrench to take the nut off, and it is much easier to torque the nut back on with a torque wrench with the socket in place.

If you don’t want to make the tool that is recommended by Honda to hold the primary gear in place to torque the clutch bolt and the primary gear bolt, you can get around that by putting the clutch plates into the clutch housing, putting the springs into place and putting washers over each spring and tighten them all down with the bolts for the throwout bearing. Then put the bike into 1st gear and have someone else apply the rear brake while you torque the clutch bolt. After you have done this you can reapply the brake and torque the primary gear bolt. Then remove the bolts from over the clutch springs and put the throw out bearing assembly in place and torque them properly.

You can also torque the bolts by yourself if you have a strap wrench to go around the clutch housing, but be sure to go around the rear part of the housing to make sure you don’t bend the aluminum of the clutch housing.

After stripping the front of the engine you must either put on the Gl650 oil separator or do some firm, but gentle hammer work to make the 650 clutch housing clear on the back side and put grease on the backside of the clutch housing and spin it to see where it is rubbing. Tapping with a ball peen hammer did allow the housing to clear. It did not allow the use of the 650 washer that was too wide and would have rubbed on the oil separator. The GL500 washer seems to be wide enough to do a sufficient job of holding in the roller bearings in place. If the 650 separator was used the 650 washer would have cleared.

While the engine is apart it would indeed be foolish not to replace all the o-rings gaskets and radiator hoses if they have never been replaced. This is also a good time to replace clutch throw arm seal on the side of the cover.

I hope this helps those of you who are considering this project. On everything I read about this job, not one person mentioned the oil separator replacement or the denting of the old one to make the 650 clutch housing fit.

Unfortunately, I didn’t take any JPEGs of what I did, but I would be willing to answer any questions you have about the procedure.

Finally, you must question whether it is worth the time, effort, and money (about $100 plus the clutch assembly) to gain 500-600 RPM at freeway speeds. My brother, for whom I did the project for, says he is happy with the results, but he was given the clutch assembly for a gift and only had to pay for the other parts and not the labor. Also, the old GL500 oil separator was used, by denting it, as there wasn’t a GL650 separator available at the time. My brother says it changes the RPM enough to take the annoying buzz out of his handlebars that occurred between 65 and 70 MPH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mmm! I think I'll pass on that one for a while, plus it doesn't seem to be worth it.



Sorry I know it's off topic, but as anyone done a twin front disc conversion for a Custom?



Cheers



Curt
 

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Well in your neck of the woods it might be harder to fine the parts than any benefit.



As for dual disc it's all over this site. Just do a search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've done quite well for parts, I get most of my parts from David Silver Spares in the UK.



They have a good selection of parts at reasonable prices, and even with the shipping costs they are cheaper than sourcing parts in NZ.



Cheers I'll have a hunt.
 

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We're talking about the gl/cx650 clutch, primary gear, and oil shield. Those have been a trick for many to find. I did the same to my bike and it's a decent mod. Just wish I could go faster. Cutting the rpms doesn't help if you cant go the mph. Damn 65mph speed limit.
 

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Mmm! I think I'll pass on that one for a while, plus it doesn't seem to be worth it.



Sorry I know it's off topic, but as anyone done a twin front disc conversion for a Custom?



Cheers



Curt
My brother really likes his clutch conversion and I am going to do my bike as soon as I get time, but first I have to get some bikes ready to sell.
 
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