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Discussion Starter · #61 · (Edited)
So I had the gaskets water jet cut.

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The originals seem to be a triple laminate of 0.35mm sections per laminate.

Mine are made from 0.5mm sheet so I will layer 2 together to make the total 1mm and see what happens. The .DXF file for getting them made is attached to this post. Grab it and rename it .dxf. Any lazer/water jet cutter should be able use it. If not give me a shout and I can email it.

So back to fitting the inlet manifold.
Next challenge is the inlet manifold support brackets. They always seem to break between the metal and the rubber but some quality Superglue and 10 minutes in the vice seems to do the trick.
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Next fit new inlet O rings and I am replacing all my air pipes with new silicone pipe and the water pipes to the air valve from the thermostat and pump body (use braided hose for these).

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When fitting the throttle body mounting bracket to the top of the engine (the one bolt in the bottom of the 3 bolt triangle), you need to leave the bottom boltloose which make it awkward to do up when the bodies are fitted but you can get to it with a deep ring spanner.

Fit the other two bolts and torque to 8-12Nm.
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The two bolts on the inlet manifold where it joins the head are also 8-12Nm. The top one in each case is award to get a socket and torque wrench on without a universal joint so you may need to 'torque by eye' with a ring spanner.

I fitted a new vacuum tube to the pressure regulator

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Fit a new water tube from the air valve assembly (near the blue connector at the back of the inlet manifold/throttle bodies) to the thermostat. Use a braided hose.

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While I was at it I also replaced all the sensor air tubes. REMEMBER THE ORDER. Page 4.8 of the manual helps and the throttle body has numbers stamped in that corresponds to the right tube (more later).

As you sit on the bike and look down at the 4 sensor tubes in their clip, the order from left to right is; P1, Pb, P2, Pign. The sensors also have labels.

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
Engine in next. Get it up on the jack and try to get it as level as possible.

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Keeping an eye on all the cables and hoses, gently move it back towards the final drive shaft. If you haven'y got the angle right this will be awkward to line up. It does move backwards and forwards quite a lot so you can move it out of the way a bit until the engine bolt holes line up. Grease the gear on the shaft before inserting on to the final drive. Don't fit the securing bolt yet.

Try to the the long rear engine bolt in first, then you can pivot the engine a bit with the jack or by hand to get the top the rear bolts in (one each side). Fit the nuts loosely on these (the LHS side one is a bit awkward but dooable if you don't push the bolt the whole way in to start).

Fit the two front engine mounts. Don't tighten yet.

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Two bolts mount to the cylinder, one to the frame then a long bolt right through the frame to the mount on the other side. repeat the other side. Dont tighten yet.

With all engine mounts in place start tightening. I started with the front mount bolts. Torque is 35-45Nm for the bolts and 30-40Nm for the one nut on the cylinder, except the long through bolt which is 45-70Nm.

Then do the top rear bolts to 45-70Nm and the long bottom bolt to 60-80Nm.

Now slide the final drive forward until only 5-6mm of spline is showing and insert the special lock bolt. Rotating the rear wheel as you do it helps. I didn't put the engine in gear bit that can help as well.

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and boot
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Refit the crank case breather

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Turbo and heat shield next.

There are a lot of screws in the heat shield and some are different sizes.

As it assembles like a jigsaw you will find yourself fitting and removing screws. Its a good idea to assemble it off the bike to know what screws go where and make some notes.

If as in my case all the heat shield gaskets were wrecked when I took it apart. I decided to blast and powder coat the heat shield parts and not refit gaskets. This project is a temporary exercise anyway and it will all be apart again later anyway then I might try to make some gaskets.

STEP 1. Test the turbo waste gate. I used one of the vacuum/pressure brake bleeding hand pump guns. Put it on 'compress' and mark a line of the wastegate actuator rod so you can see how far it moves. Apply 18.9 - 20.1 psi to the gate pressure line input using the hand pump. The actuator rod should move 2mm at a max of 20.1 psi.

Next with putting the air hose on the turbo with both clips in place as shown (note 2nd clip not in final position).

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Get the main heat shield on. As mentioned you sill need to fit some bolts then remove them later to fit other parts. Make sure any bolts behind the turbo are fitted.

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Push the turbo up and DON'T FORGET THE OIL FEED HOSE!! When you finally fit the clips make sure they are in place as shown. Before you go much further FILL THE TURBO WITH ENGINE OIL. Undo the bolt that holds the oil feed spigot onto the turbo. Pull the spigot out (check and replace the O ring if needed, its a 6.8 x 2.5 O ring) and syringe some oil into turbo. I also pushed some back into the feed pipe from the engine.

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Tighten the exhaust clamps loosely and then fit the turbo bracket.

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Now tighten the exhaust clamps to 20-25Nm then the turbo bracket bolts to the same. The bolts that mount to the turbo are special heat proof bolts. Use anti-seize grease on these.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Check the air hose and clamps are in the right position. Refer to section 6.8 of the maintenance manual for the direction of the hose. It has an arrow on it to indicate direction. If you get it wrong it doesn't fit as in the picture. You may need to rotate the top clamp a bit later to fit the top heat shield.

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Next the LHS heat shield

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and the RHS heat shield

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And refit the turbo oil return

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And the turbo air inlet hose

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Next fit the resonance chamber hose with both clips on. With the nearest one (for the chamber connection) push back towards the engine (not in its final position). The picture below shows in the wrong (final) position.

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Fit the chamber

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And fit the top heat shield

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Now go and have a beer. You will need one!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 · (Edited)
Moving on....Time to get the sump back together.

There are 5 long bolts that fit it to the engine and 4 short bolts that join the two halves together. I didn't bother to split mine.

Fits put a new O ring (15.3 x 3.5) on the strainer. Grease the O ring a little.

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Inspect the strainer mesh and clean it out

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Fit the strainer into the sump. Making sure the tabs on the strainer line up with the feature in the sump (2 O'clock position in picture)

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Fit a new sump O ring (76.5 x 3). Previously the sump O ring on mine had also had sealer applied which is difficult to fully clean so I used sealer again to make sure.

Fit the sump, pushing the strainer O ring stem into place and insert the 5 long screws. Torque them in a cross pattern to 8-12Nm. Check you have a tight seal with a torch.

Fit the sump plug with a new 8 x 14 copper washer. Torque is 15-25Nm.

Fill with 3.5l of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 · (Edited)
Next fit the blue connector back onto the throttle bodies (you can just see the mating darker blue connector in the background).

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Next connect up the sensor pressure pipes.

On the throttle body housing there are numbers embossed next to each port.
3 is Pb, 2 is P2 and 4 is PIgn. P1 is the long line to the front of the bike. If you look at the hose clip from the top, from left to right it should be P1, Pb, P2, Pign.

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Now connect the injector connectors (LHS and RHS)

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Then the connector and temp sensor lines

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I want to do a quick test turn over so I have connected the starter motor feed next (10-12Nm). Obviously add engine oil first!!!!!

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Next wire the new alternator connector. I soldered and crimped mine.

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Fit to the rear of the connector bracket and join the mating half.

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Connect the neutral wire

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Refit the battery box. Making sure you don't crimp and wires or air pipes behind the bracket.

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Refit the connector carrier with its two shouldered mounting bolts.

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Refit the starter solenoid and the indicator relay.

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Replace the cable clip on the frame

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Route the positive feed to the starter relay and attach the starter motor wire (as in above left pic).

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Fit the ignition system speed sensor connector

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Fit the throttle cables and replace the two screws holding the cable carrier on

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Now fit the main connector bracket back in place and start joining up the colored connectors.

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Don't forget the TPS and the pulse generator connector

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Reset the cable ties and tidy everything up

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Time to fit the exhaust header. IF YOU HAVEN'T REFITTED THE HEAT SHIELD, DO IT NOW. If you get the fairing on its too late.

I used a double gasket from the ones I made to get the thickness (clean up the turbo and the pipe end first).

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Put some anti-seize grease on the nuts and loosely fit them with the manifold in place

Line up the support bracket under the engine and push through the main bolt

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Fit the bracket and loosely fit the bolts (I had to replace one).

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Tighten the header bolts at the turbo - 20-25Nm and the bracket bolts - 18-28Nm.

Now fit the radiator with the two top bolts and one middle bolt at the bottom - (I couldn't find a torque so just used 18-28Nm as a nominal value)

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Fit the top hose.

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Now connect up the fan ans switch, noting where the cable gland goes on the heat shield.

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Connect up the oil pressure sensor

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Route the turbo air inlet pipe down through the heat shield (its a bit of a puzzle!)

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Discussion Starter · #69 · (Edited)
And tighten up the inlet hose

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Then attach the radiator lower hose and cable clip the oil sensor cable in place

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Refit the P1 sensor pipe and the sensor connector

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Tidy up the wiring from the pulse generator and injectors and refit the clip. WARNING! On the end of the air intake spigot that connects to the P1 sensor tube is a small brass nozzle (as in the picture). This is a 0.5mm bore nozzle. It can come loose and if it is not fitted the engine won't run correctly. Sometimes during disassembly the nozzle will get stuck in the hose and you might loose it.

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Route the overflow hose and connect to the radiator and route the air hose along side. They go through the metal wire clip in the picture

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Refit the coolant drain plug

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Before fitting the fairing frame, replace the plastic panel that fits over the top of the frame spar and behind the forks (no image). It is held on with 2 bolts that attach to the radiator frame.

Fit the fairing frame with the air box in place and first guide the airbox hose over the air inlet pipe

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Then loosely fit the head stock bolts

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Then the upper and lower fairing bolts

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Lower fairing bolt image below

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Make sure the resonance chamber sits on the bracket and fit the bolt

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And make sure the air box inserts line up with the frame

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Now tighten up the frame bolts. I can't find a torque for these but used 20-25Nm as a generic 8mm torque.

For the air box bolts I used 8-12Nm. I couldn't find a reference so used a nominal 6mm bolt torque.

Connect the air hose from the air box (the one that runs with the radiator over flow hose)

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Finish fitting the air box bolts.

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Fit the instrument cluster with its' 4 bolts (sorry for got to take an image).

Section 14.12 in the manual. Now start to route the wiring to the connector panel (refer to the disassembly pics/notes for the order). Its pretty simple as they all colour match. Make sure the connector clips are in place with the connector pair pushed all the way home. You can connect everything except the headlight and the indicators at this stage.

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Tidy up the fan connectors and cabling

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Refit the load resistor noting where the wire cable routing bracket goes.

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and attach its connector
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I went back and attached the exhaust tail pipes here but you could do it when you put the manifold and heat shield on.

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Fit the centre fuse panel and connect up the connectors in the connector set previously shown above.

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Refit the clutch cable, using the adjustable trick

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At this point with oil and water in the bike you can do a start test. FIRST RECONNECT THE FUEL PUMP LINE TO THE MANIFOLD. Remember this is a high pressure fuel feed.

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The big bolt is 35-50Nm and the centre bleed bolt is 27-29Nm

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As my tank is getting repaired I set up a fuel feed (don't forget the low pressure return into the top of the can). Push the button and .......a cough and then she started!! Alternator voltage good,oil pressure good.....we have a winner!!

Fit the plastic shroud and throttle cable guide. There are 2 bolts that mate with the radiator frame.

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Make sure the cable routing allows for a full lock on the steering.

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Fit the left and tight hand console panels

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and the top panel

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
And the fuse cover

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Now gently position the fairing on the bike the spring clips (chimney clips) should be wrapped in take to stop them scratching the forks.

Position the heat shield rubbers (2 each side)

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Position and tighten the 4 fairing screws. Two each side.

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Refit the fairing panel support wire

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Fit the headlight and connect up the main bulb connector and the side lights and indicators.

Fit the top 2 headlight support bolts

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and the lower 2 under the headlight
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Put the plastic top hat washer into the screen and line up and fit the bolts (1 each side)

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Fit the lower fairing panel

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some of my screws were missing so I replaced them with allen bolts. If you have the clips missing (chimney clips), they re available on-line.
 
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