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Discussion Starter · #41 · (Edited)
Looking at it the heat shield was a bit of a mess and some of turbo oil pipes didnt look great so I decided to take the turbo off and clean up the heat shields.

Clear the LHS cable harness away from the shield
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You can now get access to all the shield bolts except the ones behind the turbo. The shield assembly (it's last part) wont come off finally until the turbo is off.

There are several bolts holding the parts of the shield in place. Good hunting!!

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As the various parts come off you will notice gaskets stuck to certain sections. Try not to destroy them or you will be hand crafting new ones!

To remove the clutch cable I unlocked the two locking nuts and moved them to the end of their travel then used an adjustable to move the arm to allow the cable to unclip

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This is a shot of where the resonance chamber connects and the air inlet to the turbo (2nd pic). Remove both of these.

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Remove the exhaust manifold nuts

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Remove the turbo mounting bracket

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Remove the upper (small) and lower larger into casing) turbo oil hoses. The smaller one has two small clips Undo both, then as the turbo pulls off it will separate.

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Pull off the turbo

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More that later!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
Get yourself a good engine jack.

Put some layers of cardboard on the plate because there are a couple of small casing fins that stick down lower than the rest and it doesn't sit very evenly and you need it to come out straight!

Now remove the three lower engine bolts at the rear of the engine. The lower one is a long bolt that goes right through so you need to lock one end in place while undoing the other.

The top ones have a captive nut on the inside of the frame. Don't loose these!


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Now roll the jack forwards slightly, check for any hoses/cables still in the way. The throttle bodies/air manifold will clash with the frame so lower the jack a little and roll forward again. Repeat until its free.

To get at the rear casing easily you now need to remove the throttle body assembly.

The inlets to the cylinders are on rubbers with clamps. I would not recommend removing the clamps and opening the rubbers. Best left alone.

The joint at the head is a simple O ring seal. I used a Viton 40x2.5 O ring. Viton is a high temp O ring. The originals looks like Nitrile but my experience with Viton in high temp situations is better.

There are two bolts for the head clamp. The best tool to ensure you son't strip heads is a good ring spanner. Sockets just don't line up well.

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The bodies are held to the cases by a bracket and two hoses.
The bracket is in the middle underneath the bodies. Undo the top two bolts.

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Now remove the two hoses. It will be obvious which two as you try to lift the assembly off.

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Taadaa!!

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As a slight aside.......My bike was dormant in a barn for 15 years. The inside of the tank is very rusty so I decided to try an experiment.

There are lots of ways to clean a tank but I thought I would try electrolysis for a change.

This basically uses a steel rod (the anode) in an electrolyte (sodium carbonate solution) and a power source. In theory all the rust moves from the tank to the anode. You can then degrease and seal the tank.

I am using POR 15 degreaser and the same brand fuel tank sealer and metal preparation fluid (which goes before the sealer phase).

POR15 Fuel Car / Bike (Motorcycle) Tank Repair Sealer (473ml)

Plug the fuel tap and fuel sender holes. For the size of the turbo tank, I used 250gms of sodium carbonate. Mix it in jugs and pour it in.

Then get a rubber bung for the cap hole and drill a hole in the bung that is a tight fit for a 6mm steel rod.

Shape a mild steel rod in a kind of L shape (around 300mm of rod) so that a bit sticks out of the bung and then goes into the tank by about 50mm then turns to go along the tank towards the rear.

Push the cork in with the rod assembled. Now do a resistance check to make sure the rod isnt touching the tank at all. THIS BIT IS IMPORTANT

You now need a battery charger and a battery.

Connect the battery and charger -ve feeds to the tank body (2nd unused fuel tap outlet is good) and connect the +ve battery and charger line to the steel rod sticking out of the top of the bung.

MAKE SURE THE +VE DOESN'T TOUCH THE TANK.

Plug in the charger and away you go. After 4 hours disassemble the wiring and clean up the steel rod, then repeat again. I am still playing with this so stay tuned.......See the next post for the image/
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
OK, back to that later......

Next it is clutch cover off.

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There are 13 bolts.

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One of the bolts holds on the cable retainer for the oil sensor.

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Now using a hard piece of wood (oak), gently tap the casing away using the lugs in the lower right and left corners.

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Once you have a gap drive plastic wedges in (these are floor tile wedges)

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As you remove the cover you will likley have 2 dowels and an oil feed fallout.

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The dowels each have an O ring round them as does the oil feed. MAKE SURE THE OIL FEED GOES BACK IN WITH THE NIPPLE STICKING OUT (as in the pic)
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The cover also has dowels in 2 places...

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Next I needed to adjust my oil pump chain which was a bit slack. The book says 2 - 3.5mm of slack with the pump bolts being torqued to 8 - 12 Nm.
There are 3 bolts. All hex head (not the phillips screw one)

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You will have to release them, move the assembly to tighten the chain then tighten them a little, while tapping the assembly gently until you get the right tension. Then tighten the bolts and recheck the tension. I found that to be the easiest way.

Then remove the two coolant pipe clamps and the hose connection

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Nows a good time to remove the plugs (fill the hole with rags).

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Next is the water pump cover bolts. As you take them out note the lengths/positions.

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Gently tap round the housing again and insert wedges.

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And you get access to the impeller (note the dowel positions as you remove the cover)

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The impeller is held on with a nut and copper washer.

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
The impeller normally comes of with a bit of rocking to and fro.

Next is the pump housing. remove the bolts and gently tap using the oak block wherever you can get an edge and put some wedges in.

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Once off you will expose the two Ne sensors which will likely be corroded. There are various threads showing Ebay replacements for these. BEFORE YOU TAKE THEM OFF MAKE A CAREFUL NOTE OF THE WIRING. THEY ARE POLARISED.

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There are also two O rings (by the blue glove and the one opposite), these will need replacing (as do all the O rings).

With the housing off the timing cam and pump collar are exposed.

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The collar will likely be corroded and need replacing. You can't buy them. Here is the drawing. Make on in 316 stainless (or I can make them for you).

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The sleeve won't just slide off. I locked the crank in place, soaked it in Plus Gas and gently rotated it with pliers.

Next you need to get out the mechanical seal. I pressed mine out with a socket in a vice to make sure it came out square.


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EDIT. This sentence isn't true for the Turbo. There is no water weep hole in the pump housing in this position, it is a small hole in the bottom of the housing. The second picture also shows the small water bleed hole that goes from the inside (rusty bit) to the outside of the casing (top of the black section). MAKE SURE THIS FEED IS CLEAR.

The CMSL parts fiche shows another seal (15) but that is only for the standard CX which has the cam seal (15) and the mechanical seal (3) in the rear cover (with the weep hole between them). The turbo just has the mechanical seal assembly (3) in the pump housing and the cam seal in the rear cover with the weep hole in the bottom of the pump housing.

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
To get the collar off I used some Plus Gas then gently rotated it (it is getting replaced).

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New Stainless 316 part machined today.

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The remove the casing bolts

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The tricky bit is the cam pickup for the sensors. This can only be done with a gear puller as it is likely stuck on. I screwed a nut back onto the thread to stop any damage.

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Apply some Plus Gas and it comes off easily. try and do it any other way and you damage the cam.The cam is located by a small pin. Make sure you don't loose it as the cam comes off.

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Using the piece of oak again I gently tapped round the housing until there was a gap then used the wedges.

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BEWARE. The gear lever shaft may become stuck in the seal and if you keep pulling the housing out without tapping it back, you will damage the return spring (as I did).

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
The cover has two large water transfer dowels (either side of the cam shaft) with an O ring on each. Another pair of the same O rings are used on the back of the pump body that mates with the same water ways.

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The cam oil seal (above and below pic) fits into the rear case. CMSL and Davis Silver have this as a 18x28x6 seal but the one in my bike is a 18x28x5. I dont think the extra mm of depth makes any difference.

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There are two locating dowels in the casing. Don't loose them.

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I need to replace the alternator so the rear cover has to come off to expose the wire glands.

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Make a note of how the alternator earth runs

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Tap the cover off as before. You can get an edge at the top.

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The alternator is held with three bolts

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and the cable seals can be prised out.
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Undo the neutral cable guide

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and the nut holding the neutral wire on
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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Next having lined the LH cylinder at TDC and checking that the timing marks are right (cam gear bolts line up with marks on casing and crank woodruf key aligns with mark on the crank cap (section 11-9 in the manual). Lock the crank in place with the Honda tool.

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Now you can undo the rotor centre bolt

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I used a 20mm x 1.5 pitch x 80mm long bolt to extract the rotor.

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As the rotor comes off make sure you don't loose the starter clutch plungers, springs and cams

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If you are replacing the springs, USE HONDA PARTS

Lift off the drive gear and its needle bearing

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Lift off the reduction gear taking note of the thrust washer

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Having locked the crank I drew additional line up marks on the cam gear and the crank shaft to make sure I got it right on reassembly.

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Undo the 3 set plate bolts

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Discussion Starter · #51 · (Edited)
On the cam chain tensioner body (you need 3 hands for this). Push the LH sprung pin across into the body while pushing a screw driver in from the RH side against the ball in the housing. A slide will come out of the RH side and you can insert a holding pin.

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Now undo the tensioner bolt and slide it off.
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Now remove the LH and RH chain guide and slipper arm

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The new Davis Silver slipper arm one on the left looks a bit flimsier that the old one on the right but I replaced it anyway.....

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The LH guide has collars pressed in. Remove and fit to the new guide

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Undo the two cam sprocket bolts

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The sprocket will pull forward and the chain will come off.

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Refit the chain and sprocket and check the line up (apply tension to the RH side of the chain). Sprocket bolt torque is 16-20 N-m

Refit the two chain guides. Bolt torque is not in the manual but I used 18-20 N-m.

Refit the tensioner. Bolt torque is 18-25 N-m.

Remove the retaining pin you put in and push in the ball with the screw driver to make sure it moves freely and tension is made on the chain. The tensioner wont move much but it must move. If it doesnt check the ball bearing is moving again and the slide you put the retaining pin in has moved back into the tensioner.

Refit the set plate. Bolt torque is 8-12N-m

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Back to the Ne sensors/pump body repair......

My sensor plate is a bit of a mess. Clearly some leakage
over time.
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The really important thing to note is the sensor wiring. On the LHS sensor the yellow wire striped white is on the outside (on new LX579 sensors this is the red wire).

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On the RH sensor the blue wire striped white is on the inside (again red wire on the new sensor)

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I use plenty of Plus Gas on the screws. Don't loose the little spring clips or the magnets.

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The cable clamp comes off in one piece

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Hold the sensor bracket in a vice and gently rock the sensor body off the tab

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Now's a good time to make the water weep hole larger in the pump body

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I bought some sensors off ebay (LX579). They are almost a perfect fit but not quite. I decided to modify the backing plate to suit so future sensors will fit rather than filing the sensors as others have done. A session in the ultrasonic sorted all the metal parts.

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Next make a note of the connector polarity. White stripped wires are on the left (upper and lower).

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
My new sensors have good quality multi core copper cables and silicone (high temp) sleeving so easy to solder. The old wires in the cable are harder to solder. It's really important you get a good joint and some modern solders don't have great flux. I dipped my cable ends in LACO plumbers soldering flux first then tinned the ends. It worked very well. You want the joints a few centimeters up the cable sleeve so with the connector off, pull back the sleeve. Cut the old wires near the sensor. Tin sensor and cable ends and slide heat shrink over each wire.

Remember red wires go to the stripped white wires.

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Make sure the joints are really clean. heat gun the heatshrink down and slide the cables sleeving back in place and refit the connector. Now refit the cable clamp.

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Not too shabby (y):)
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Back to the alternator. I chose the Electrex World one (G08). Talking to them they assured me it was a common turbo replacement (12v, 5000 rpm, 250 watt approx).

Hole pattern fits. On the standard unit there is an additional M5 screw for a cable clamp. Mine had a hole but not tapped. I opened it to 4.2mm and tapped it M5.

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There isn't a torque setting in the manual I can see and the original bolts seemed to have locktite on them so I repeated that and torqued to 10Nm. Much more felt wrong on a shallow thread.

The cables route through the housing via 2 x rubber glands. I used 3Bond 1215 to seal the cables and glands. I will use the same on the water pump water ways.

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Refit the neutral wire and have it joing the alternator cables sleeve near the alternator glands. Note routing by the pack cover. With the cover on the wire is trapped.

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Tighten up the wire crimp nut and refit the boot and cable bracket

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Fit a new alternator connector and pins (comes in the Electrex World kit).

The next job is boring........old gasket removing! I used Liqui Moli seal and gasket remover. Spray it on. Leave a few minutes then very carefully use a scaple to get the old gaskets off.

WARNING. I think this stuff is basically a form of paint stripper. Don't over spray your lovely black casings. It may not take the paint off but it will take the shine off 🤨 Wash any residue off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Time to replace some seals on the rear cover.

The gear change seal is a 16x28x7 lip seal.

With most of these type of seals I have found it best to use a well rounded old screwdriver and push in the seal edge to relieve the tension a little then you can gently prise it out from underneath. I'm sure there are lots of ways to do it but this is mine. Be careful not to damage any sealing surfaces.

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Next the cam shaft seal is a 18x28x6 lip seal. Same deal. Support the underside with a bit of wood and gently break the edge in before levering it out.

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To replace the seals wipe some engine oil round the outside and insert squarely. A socket sometimes helps with some gentle pressure. Make sure the socket is almost the seal diameter. You may then need a flat piece of wood and a hammer to make sure the seal is flush with the housing.

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I will get to the final drive seal later as that is a special seal.

Starter clutch rebuild next before the cover goes back on.

Replace the springs. My old springs measured 33.5mm and my new Honda ones are 36mm. ONLY USE HONDA SPRINGS.

Inspect the rollers and plungers for damage and insert the spring onto the plunger then insert the pair into the small hole in the assembly.

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Hold the plunger in with a screwdriver and insert the roller. Then remove the screwdriver while holding the parts in place with a finger.
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To refit the rotor to the crankshaft I found it best to fit the gear and needle bearing to the rotor first. Then put the whole assembly on the crank.

If you try to put them on individually you will never get the rollers to go over the crank edge as the tolerance is too tight and you cant get your fingers in to depress the rollers.

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Line up the assembly with the woodruff key on the crank and it should slide on.

Tighten the crank bolt to 90-105 Nm
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Nest step is to get the mechanical seal into the pump housing.

I used a 25mm/1 inch socket to keep it square in the vice again. Make sure the bore is clean and old blue sealer removed. Protect the rear face of the body with a piece of wood.

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Assembled right and its sits flush.

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ALthough strictly not a sealed area, I added some of the 1215 sealer to the cable gland to keep bulk moisture out.

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I also decided to Hammerite spray the sensor plate to reduce the rusting for next time.
There is no torque setting for the bolts so I used the common 10Nm.

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Now insert the two waterway dowels and the sealing O rings with the 1215 seaaler.

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Make sure the two cover/casing dowels are in place (one each side)

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Put engine oil on the kick start seal and the final drive seal and gently fit the rear casing.

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Although I have green gaskets, I blackened the edges with a Sharpie pen

I used some copper grease on the casing bolts to make them easier to remove next time
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Both torque us - 6mm 8-12Nm. 8mm 18-25Nm.

The manual says, test fit the starter motor before torqueing the bolts, to make sure the gear lines up but you can't really without doing up one of the bolts so fit it later and rotate the engine from the clutch side to make sure the motor has aligned.

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Fit the final drive boot.

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Now back to the water pump.

I greased the tiny dowel pin to stop it falling out.

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Clean any rust off the can shaft. Grease the cam shaft a little and fit the pulse rotor. I marked the position of the pin slot to make sure they lined up.

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When it is flush it is lined up

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Fit the pump seal collar. I slightly greased the cam shaft where it fits.

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Next the pump impeller. First remove the seal set

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I had a rusty impeller so I ultrasonically cleaned it and then Hammerite sprayed it and refitted the new seal set (use washing up liquid on the seal to help insertion)

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Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Fit the waterway O rings to the pump body using 1215 sealer
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And fit the pump body to the engine. Making sure the two dowels are in place.Tap it home and rotate the engine to make sure the impeller doesn't fowl anywhere.

Push in the impeller against the mechanical seal spring and fit a new washer and the old nut.

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Torque the nut to 8-12Nm

Place the main O ring in the pump cover (again smear it with 1215 sealer)

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And refit the bolts and the one holding the intake manifold bracket (at the top of the picture). I used some copper grease again on the bolts after cleaning them up.

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Torque is 6mm 8-12Nm and 8mm 18-25Nm.

Now refit the starter motor with a new boss O ring. Bolt torque is 8-12Nm. You may need to rotate the motor from the front.

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Front cover.

First make sure the oil way tubes are in with new O rings. There are two of them.

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The a new O ring for the oil orifice. Note which way round it goes.

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Then the two cover locating dowels

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And a new gasket. I Sharpied the edge black again.

The cover bolt torque is 8-12Nm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
I ended up making a clutch cover gasket. The one in most CX gasket sets on-line (even some sold as turbo sets) are for the standard CX which has a different bolt pattern.

There are a couple of places in the US that make gaskets (Murrays Carbs) and Copper Gaskets Unlimited" at 001 623 340 4300.

I ended up making one from gasket paper because I live in the UK and it was easy to make.

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Make sure the clutch piston is still in place. It is easy to loose if you move the clutch lever while disassembled.


Attach the cover. Bolts torque is 6mm 8-12Nm and 8mm 18-25Nm (these get fitted properly with the turbo bracket). Note where the oil pressure switch wire cable clamp fits (RHS of image)

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Next refit the oil filter with a new O ring and make sure the spring and washer are in the right order. The filter then pushes on. I soak the filter in engine oil before assembling it.

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Screw the cover on. 8mm 18-25Nm
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My gasket for the breather cover arrived. Note the orientation.
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Bolts torque is 6mm 8-12Nm and 8mm 18-25Nm. Note how the neutral switch wire is trapped under the casing on the right
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