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2-1 header and general exhaust inquiry

1208 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  reclinedrelic
Hullo all,

I'm interested in redoing a bit of the exhaust on my GL500. Problem is, even with all of the bolts and things removed, the connection between the header and the (rusted) h-box seems to require a hacksaw. Is this my only option, or has anyone else here run into a similar issue? Haven't attempted it with the blowtorch, is that worth trying?

I would be interested in replacing the headers to get around this. That is, if anyone knows of a 2-1 header still in production that isn't extortionately priced (the only one I've seen is pushing 500 USD). I've heard of a "MAC" header, but I haven't been able to find one for sale anywhere... does anybody have info on those or something similar?

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
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I would remove the headers and H-box as a unit, assuming you have the mufflers off. A bit of heat, and a BFH (big fng hammer) using a twisting motion on the header and blows to the H-box and it should come apart. There are (or should be) insulating gaskets that get old brittle and stick like crazy to the pipes. Cant answer re: 2-1 as I never looked into it. BTW I hate Cx/GL exhaust work.

Also you can gently pry up the tabs on the H-box for more access/movement of the pipe
Hullo all,

I'm interested in redoing a bit of the exhaust on my GL500. Problem is, even with all of the bolts and things removed, the connection between the header and the (rusted) h-box seems to require a hacksaw. Is this my only option, or has anyone else here run into a similar issue? Haven't attempted it with the blowtorch, is that worth trying?

I would be interested in replacing the headers to get around this. That is, if anyone knows of a 2-1 header still in production that isn't extortionately priced (the only one I've seen is pushing 500 USD). I've heard of a "MAC" header, but I haven't been able to find one for sale anywhere... does anybody have info on those or something similar?

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
twist and pull and the header should come out.

from what ive seen no one is currently making a 2-1 header. even if they are, youre going to pay out the ass for it. there is no cheap solution for it unless you diy your own.
A 2 lb deadblow hammer would be my choice.

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
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Thanks everyone! All of those methods should help a lot.
The 2-1 information, while certainly a bit of a drag, is good to know.

And to Sidecar Bob: thanks for the warm welcome, tips, and material in your signature.
I love my GL already and hope to be here for a quite a while.
Tranzac in Australia still makes new 2into1 exhausts for the CX (and parts.....)
Shipping might be a killer...

Possibly having custom work done locally in stainless steel??
That’s great to know, thanks! I’ve sent them an inquiry, but I bet you’re right. The local shop method is probably the better way to go for my wallet.

If I go that route, should I keep the stock header, and just go back from where the H-box is? Or would it be worth it/“easy” to get a new header fabricated as well?
The original headers are double walled, one tube inside the other. Most aftermarket headers will be single walled. That is why aftermarket headers tend to blue near the heads. I'd keep the original headers.
Agree with #8 (re bluing)....plus aftermarket chrome seems to pit more easily...
I fitted a chrome Tranzac to mine 7 years ago....some pitting as I live in a coastal area.
Also there is some thought that 2 into 1 and 4 into 1 often rust from the inside...especially if used on short runs...another reason to consider s/steel.
Last time I spoke to them the s/steel was only priced a lil above the chromed
All great things to know, thanks so much guys!

I got my h-box and silencers off yesterday. Cracked a big smile during the whole of my test ride, but I definitely need a permanent solution :p
Looks like a weld shop and cleaning up the original headers is the way to go.
Over the years Murrayf has made several posts regarding 2 into 1 exhaust systems. They make worthwhile reading. Search results for query: 2 into 1 exhaust
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