Honda CX 500 Forum banner

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,780 Posts
If you don't loosen it slightly you can't set the torque correctly. If a bolt (or nut) is at close to the spec torque and you put the wrench on and lean on it you will always increase the torque to a higher value before it clicks.
I don't know how to explain this
According to this it is due to stiction.
It is a long thread with opinion on both sides, the relevant section said "Also, by loosening the bolt (or nut) a few degrees you overcome the stiction under the washer face of the nut or bolt on the re-torque and you get a more accurate squeeze on the gasket. "
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Thank all of you guys for the input I just retorqued the head bolts today and I'm glad I did 1 on the right aide was finger loose and 2 on the left side as Well, I also changed the coolant, in going to take it for a test ride tomorrow and see if it'll run nicely.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,801 Posts
If you are lucky the gasket may have survived running the engine like that. If all goes well on your ride let it cool fully (overnight) and re-torque them again. You may need to do it several times before they stop moving.

BTW: Don't forget to make sure the cooling system is full before you ride.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,537 Posts
so - you have checked that your thermostat is functioning properly? And that your radiator core is not blocked with accumulated road crap on the outside , nor blocked internally? And you have made sure that the fan turns on at the required temperature?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I finally got a good day to ride again after retorqueing the bolts, the bike still over heated at about 23 mins into the ride, granted its 95 degrees out, im going to try and torque them again and check the valve clearance, but if that dosent work does anyone have any more tips?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
It is very likely that you damaged the gaslets running the engine with the bolts loose.
If that were to be thw case wouldnt I have a problem with compression and loose power, or wouldnt the coolant leak into the head and burn white?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,780 Posts
Have you checked for flow through the radiator, operation of the thermostat, and that your cooling fan is operating properly as Muzza suggests? You have checked the coolant level in the radiator as well?
 
  • Like
Reactions: D-Fresh

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,801 Posts
Yeah, I just read back through the thread and somehow we got started on the subject of re-torquing the head gaskets before giving you the basics.

1) Check the coolant level in the rad itself (open the rad cap only when the engine is cool) as well as in the recovery tank. If the head gasket has a big leak between the combustion chamber and cooling jacket coolant will be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke (this usually causes white steam in the exhaust) as well as allowing expanding combustion gasses to enter the cooling system BUT the pressure in the cylinder after ignition is a lot higher than the suction on the intake cycle so if the leak is small it is possible for the exhaust gasses to get into the cooling system without a significant amount of coolant getting into the combustion chamber. When that happens the pressure will force more coolant out of the system and into the recovery tank and often when the engine (& the coolant inside it) cools and contracts it will draw air in through the leak in the gasket instead of drawing coolant back from the tank.

2) The fan is hard to see but you should be able to feel the air movement at the sides of the engine when it switches on. IIRC it should turn on just about when the gauge reaches the red part of the line (someone with a stock gauge and cooling system please confirm).

3) You can tell if the thermostat opens and coolant flows by feeling the top of the rad or the chromed water pipe on the left side of the engine. As you can see in the drawing below, when the thermostat is closed coolant will flow through the bypass hose (small hose from thermostat housing to water pump) and circulate through the water jackets and back to the thermostat housing (this helps bring the engine up to operating temperature fairly quickly). When the thermostat opens the hot coolant can flow into the top of the rad as the pump draws cooler coolant from the bottom of the rad.
This means that when the thermostat opens the top of the rad will begin to get warm almost immediately and the water pipe a few seconds later.
201416
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,510 Posts
What was your source for head gaskets? A lot of the aftermarket gaskets for the 500 are of questionable quality. I imagine it's the same with the 650.
Murray has 650 head gaskets, and he's a reliable source. He wouldn't offer them if they were substandard.

Randall
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
What was your source for head gaskets? A lot of the aftermarket gaskets for the 500 are of questionable quality. I imagine it's the same with the 650.
Murray has 650 head gaskets, and he's a reliable source. He wouldn't offer them if they were substandard.

Randall
The headgaskets I got with the bike I might not of said this earlier vut they are a new pair of the original gaskets with the asbestos in them still
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,537 Posts
so - did you check all those radiator/coolant related things suggested or are you waiting for a magic wand to appear and fix your issue?
 
21 - 35 of 35 Posts
Top